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Hello Guys, today at a local R/C swap meet y was walking looking for RC10’s and did not see anything but I did see this and it caught my eye and I cud not resist so I got it. One of my favorite all time cars it the Optima but the Ultimas was one of the top at the beginning and it look so good.

It is very clean, but I still have to take it apart and re built it. I need to get a couple of new thing like tools for it.


One more question, anyone has tried using part from the Tower Hobbies Nitro ST-15 w/.15 RTR. I am peaty sure some of the parts are the same.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0005p?&I=TOWC55**&P=Z

Let me know what you think.

More pics of the rebuilt soon.

nioce turbo ultima!! looks like it was only run a few times.
get a good deal on her?

Front/rear arms fit, servo saver fits, front bulkhead works, servo saver works (but kinda crappy), the knuckles and rear hubs work fine too. gearbox totally different though.

dogbones are same soo but universals are easy to find, the new RB5 ultima axles actually fit too

here is some info for ya on my build a while back
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=6543

got the start of a cool car there definetly, ultima parts rarely come up on ebay unfortunetly though but they do pop up from time to time and arent terribly expensive usually

sweet pick up, cant wait to find something good again.

ultimas always pop up on ebay, and usually pretty damn cheap, this one below

http://cgi.ebay.com/1987-Kyosho-ultima-chassis-with-gear-box-and-suspension_W0QQitemZ290354804862QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRadio_Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item439a7eb87e&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

will probably only for for 30-40 dollars, maybe more now that i posted it, but it was easily searchable... has all the hard parts... roll cage looks like its all there

The Front axles/hubs/steering can be used from the ST15, upper decks can be custom made pretty easily or found randomly also. The steering can be used from the ST15, The Shock towers from the ST15 are aluminum, pretty sturdy and can be stripped/polished to look sweet.. and any shocks can be used there.

Thanks for the comments. The car looks really good. And I am thinking I only need to re-built it clean, find a body and wing and maybe get some new rims and rubber.

ya looks great to me, talk to marwan about body and decals, wheels and rubber "original" to the car will be hard to find.. but they come up once in a while.. cant wait to see it cleaned, its a great car.

Can I get some help on what tools I will need to disassemble this? My tools are dedicated to the RC10, so I need some extra ones. If I can get some sizes and types or if someone can direct me to a link that I can get this info I would appreciated it.

thanks.

i dont know the sizes off top of my head, but the 2 sets of drivers i own below by associated..

for allen you will be using the tealblue handle one mostly
you should get a 1.5 mm driver also as this one isnt included in that set, mostly used for metric pinion screws and such. (i bought a duratrax one)

for nuts you will need the purple and silver ones.

Question to knowledgeable:

How rare is the Turbo Ultima really? Where can I find some history on it? I don’t see a lot of them around and the one I have only has a couple of rides on it (unfortunately on the street). It is probable going to be on the shelf for some time but I might ride it in the future.

I was planning on adding a Pro-Line Butterfly body (that I have) and adding some custom parts but I am not sure known.

Let me know your opinion. (Sending it to someone is not an option)

I don't think Turbo Ultimas are really that rare. They are more scarce than the standard Ultimas, though. Some parts, like the wheels, were only used on the Turbo Ultima and no other Kyosho vehicles so they are really hard to find if you need replacements. The platinum shocks are rare too although I don't think they are that great. NIB sets sell very well on ebay.

One thing you will definetly need is a #2 and #1 phillips. A 7mm nut driver for the wheel nuts and I think a 5.5mm nut driver for the shock nuts. A Tamiya wrench is all you need for that. I believe (don't quote me) the only allen bolt used on the car is the diff bolt, and maybe the motor screws if somebody was smart and replaced them already.

HPI has a lot of phillips screws that you can use to replace the old scratched up ones. Let me know if you need any of the top deck short flat head phillips screws, I have a bunch of them. They get stripped out easy if not careful.

Marwan's bodies and decals are top notch! I personally would go with the original body over the butterfly. I think you would have to source the cage off of the original Ultima if you want to use it and look right.

Let the tear-down beguine.

I am going to take it slow on this one because it is the second Kyosho car I have ever own and worked on. My first one was an Optima and it was around 18 years ago.
I got some NIB parts like arms, gearbox case and ball ends. I am waiting to get some parts like a full set of screws, new seals for the shocks, new body and set of wheels. The current rims look good but the rubber on the tires are all cracking so I am probable going to keep this set on the storage and adapt some other wheels, the other parts on the car looks good.
I am not so into the box art cars unless they are NIB so my plans are to set this one up with some aftermarket stuff like Ti links and I am thinking a Kyosho Tomahawk body with large wide rims. I really like that body and almost got it for one of my RC10s but I like to keep it in the Kyosho family. I also like the Joel Johnson Ultima from the ’87 world Champs.

This has to be one of the coolest chassis ever.

Let me know what you think of my plan. And if you have any other suggestions or places to get a hold f the thing I need, let me know.
Thanks.

Watching this with interest! It's making me want to restore mine!

I used these Option House parts when I restored my TU: turnbuckles, hardened final pinion and motor guard.