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I have an RC10 Graphite and I can't mount the bottom of the rear shock any where but all the way by the tire without the left CVD popping out of the left outdrive when the suspension goes full extension. This Is a problem for two reasons. 1. I get less travel for track use & 2, my Street tires rub on the metal washer. The chassis was a 6 gear chassis with a Stealth mounted at a latter time. The CVD's are not the stock ones. I'm not 100% but they look just like these MIP's:

What Can I do to Fix this? Thank you for your time.

Put a couple shims on the outer bone (inside the rear hub carrier) on the inner side towards the transmission. This will "pull" the CVD back in towards the outdrive cup.

Hope this makes sense .

Daddeo wrote:Put a couple shims on the outer bone (inside the rear hub carrier) on the inner side towards the transmission. This will "pull" the CVD back in towards the outdrive cup.

Hope this makes sense .

I was thinking about that but the wheel pin is already right up against the outer bearing... will a shim still work?

sounds as if your cvd's aint the right ones. are they the same length?

How far in (toward the trans) on the out-drives does the bone sit when the car is level? Are the bones on each side the same length? You might also soften the oil and spring rates in the rear so not to allow full extension when the pressure is off the chassis.

I would double check the length. Are you using 1/4in CVD or the 3/16 CVD? I think some of us have found that the B44 REAR CVD bone is about the right length. You can also play around with the shims as prev. suggested.



MOmo

I'm almost 100% sure they are the MIP's Part #1007 , Product description says they are for all RC10's. It looks like the Right rear bone sits in just a bit more in than the left, enough not to pop out at full extension... maybe a shim or two might work on the left... I'll have to run to the hobby shop today. Thanks for all the help.

If a shim doesn't work what else might I be looking for?
also If I do have the wrong CVD's which ones can I get that will fit associated wheels part# 6805?

If possible, take a few pictures: at full extension, wheels off the ground; at full compression; at ride height, wheels on the ground. That might help with the diagnosis.

Those are the correct CVDs for that car and wheels.

Do your rear shocks have internal spacers installed? There are generally downstop/spacers in each rear shock that limit the amount of extension (the manual for the graphite calls for three 6466 spacers).

Check your rear camber. Is there a lot of positive camber at full extension?

well I was going to take a few pictures as suggested but.... I was looking over the car one more time and noticed that the previous owner (my friends dad) drilled the stealth holes just a hair off. They are just a tad over to the right, just enough for the left bone to pop out at full extension. I might still be able to correct it with shims but if not I guess i'll just have to live with it. Thanks for all the input from every one.

You could also fill the holes in the graphite chassis and use a template to re-drill and countersink the stealth mounting holes.It is a easy repair. I have used jb weld and also panel bond to repair holes in a few resto's and have had no problems as far as strenght goes. I think the panel bond is made by 3m.

rctenracer's solution is pretty much the best solution short of shooting a decent chassis from the bay.

If you still have the original rear hubs with the flanged bearrings you could just sand / grind down the hub as much as you need to till the dogbone fits right.

Of couse your setup will always be off by that amount.

rctenracer wrote:You could also fill the holes in the graphite chassis and use a template to re-drill and countersink the stealth mounting holes.It is a easy repair. I have used jb weld and also panel bond to repair holes in a few resto's and have had no problems as far as strenght goes. I think the panel bond is made by 3m.

thanks for the tip. I just might try it.