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I got a box of mixed parts from 2 old B2's. I have enough to build one nice runner and still have a few spares.

The parts I pulled for the build
The box with what's left (my spares)
A few new parts that I will need

Cool! I like both the B2 & B3 buggies the most, I'll be keeping an eye on this build.

I want to see more of the slot car track.

RC10resto wrote:I want to see more of the slot car track.

That's a very rare racing storage table right now!

Got the Transmission and most of the front end built! I put a set of RCPS titanium turnbuckles on but one side of the rear turnbuckle threads are cut straight and will not screw a ball cup on, Darn it! So in the rear I used a wire wheel to polish off the blue anodizing on a FT turnbuckle. It looks like a RCPS and the only difference is the notch for the left hand thread.
Notice the rare, correct B2 top plate?

I have never owned a B2 but I do have a couple B3's and I like em. My question is what is the differance between the B2 and B3 top plate ?

I don't remember any differences there, the front & rear arms were different,drive axels as was the caster blocks, front shock tower tires and wheels........as memory serves



Oh and BTW Rod, I have a slew of new out of pkg B2 parts such as toe blocks, arms ,gear covers
I think a body, a box instructions etc, etc, etc--drop me a PM if you need me to send you anything other than the servo horn (I'll still be out of town until next week)

Reggie

rctenracer wrote:I have never owned a B2 but I do have a couple B3's and I like em. My question is what is the differance between the B2 and B3 top plate ?

No holes for the sway bar screw and no molded braces to hold the sway bar.

Some things to look for in a true B2. On the rear end

1 ) No holes in the chassis above the inner ball cup, for the sway bar.
2 ) Universal drive shafts
3 ) Chassis plate has no under motor guard
4 ) Rear suspension mounts use 4-40 screws not 5-40
5 ) Rear tower on B2 and early B3 are taller
6 ) 10T type rear hubs
7 ) shorter arms with 2 shock mounting positions and no balls for sway bar
8 ) Clamping shock collars
9 ) Metal shock caps early, plastic late
10) Bearings are metal shielded

Some things to look for on a true B2 on the front end

1 ) Two holes on the front shock tower (B3 has 3)
2 ) Shorter front arms with 2 shock mounts and no balls for sway bar
3 ) Old type caster blocks
4 ) 10T/Worlds type spindles and axles
5 ) No sway bar holes or braces on top deck
6 ) No curves on servo mounts (not shown)
7 ) White servo arms (not shown)
8 ) Aluminium shock caps early, plastic late
9 ) Clamping shock collars

I used Evader BX front and rear wheels with some Losi rubber. I'm going to share electronics with another car. I'm getting the body painted box art (Matt Francis winning Worlds car) should be nice. All done for now.

great build nice car. also enjoyed the info on the b2.

rctenracer wrote:great build nice car. also enjoyed the info on the b2.

Thanks. It's funny how many original B2's have the B3 conversion. It makes it very hard to get a true, correct B2. If you don't know what to look for you can get the wrong car. I have seen a few listed on eBay as a B2 but have some B3 parts. So if you guys are looking for a B2, be careful!

I don't know why I have a recent fixation on RC10B2's. It may be because I have never raced one or even run one for that matter. I did buy a B2 and build it right when they came out, but never ran it. I was into onroad at the time and still ran my Team/Worls car the odd time I raced off road. When I got back into off road the B3 just came out. I look forward to racing these B2's!

I looked at my spares and thought I would build a short chassis Factory Team B2 of sorts. AE never made a FT B2 but I will!

The B2 is pretty much all FT parts with Lunsford Titanium turnbuckles and RCPS hinge pins. MIP Shiny CVD's. Ti top shaft. Silver aluminium screws and where I needed steel, I used stainless to get the all silver look. One cool mod I did was cut down some extra Titanium hinge pins I had, to make Ti steering rack pins. With the ball bearing steering kit, this is one of the smoothest steering racks I have felt.
I used gold Sport shocks and the "new gold" mini aluminum 4-40 lock nuts. The "new gold" matches the shocks perfectly and eccents the black and silver on the chassis. The poor pictures do the chassis no justice, sorry!

I know it's not a Factory Team without the green Teflon coated shocks. I love the cool look of the gold, but I just can't bare to scratch them up. Remember this is a runner! So I added the tougher Team shocks.
The older but brand new electronics I had kicking around for a touring car, will go nice in this B2 project. LRP Quantum 2, Futaba R603FS RX, Futaba S9550 servo. Only 1.5 oz in weight with a speed of .11 and torque of 83.3, plenty for a 1/10 buggy. A Putnam "hand wound" (cheater! ) Epic based 19 turn. I love modern 19T motors in my buggy's. They have good torque and RPM for most tracks. I used Lunsford Ti Fat Boyz Motor screws.