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I just finished rebuilding my 6-gear gold tub CE RC10. Next, I'll be restoring my TQ10 graphite. Take a look at the pics!!

I am using a ball bearing steering bellcrank setup that isn't stock. I got it used from a guy way back in the day, and I have since decided that it might be the steering bellcrank that came stock on the worlds car. It has HOUGE ENT molded in small print on the plastic. The problem I am having with this bellcrank is that when turning, the center link ball end caps bump and bind into the upper a-arm tierod ballends. I was able to use an exacto knife to shave a little off the ballends to get the outer "turning" ballends from the center pieces past that upper arm ballend, but now the center link is hitting and no amount of shaving with the exacto knife is going to allow it to move freely. Has anyone ever gotten this bellcrank to work with the stock gold-tub setup (note, it works fine on my graphite chassis, but there is an uneven "lip" part of the gold tub causing the problems here)? Maybe the black inner-tube should be taken out and flipped so that the spacer part of it is on the top instead of the bottom of the bellcrank....? Any ideas?

these are made be houge. they also made a graphite chassis and are famous for there trailing arm rear suspension conversion for the rc10. I would say the "world car" bellcrank kinda copied these. they are very nice, i'd say the best.

the problems you have encountered are common. you can flip the plastic tubes that the big aluminum screw go through but the plastic tubes will eventually strip this way. i run nice aftermarket ballcups everywhere except here because space is tight...

Associated sells short ballstuds too, they came with the B2 and help out. That's always a tight spot on RC10's

I ran into the exact same deal yesterday on a project I was working on. I ended up just using the setup off a rc10ds I had laying around after finding out they are just the common rc10gt bellcranks. They look clean, drop right in, have the servo saver built in, and easy to find. I tried several ball studs and nothing was going to give up the room needed to make the houge ones work. They'll work with the front end setup for short arms, or on a graphite style chassis.

try flipping the mount so the nut is on the top. if that doesn't work, get the low profile ballstuds for the inner camber rod and the bellcrank center link. if that still don't work, remove some of the material on the bellcranks to lower the centerlink.