RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Just curious, cause I don't have experience with this car, but shouldn't the real Cva/dog bones be longer??
I had one fall out while I was riding today, and hadn't noticed that they sit right on the edge of the out drive.
I couldn't move the shocks one hole over on the rear arm if I wanted to or they would fall out.
How many "washers" can I add before it affects me being able to put the pin through the axle,if that's what I have to do??
Excuse me if I'm sounding dumb over here....I'm new at this.

Usually you would move shims from one side (pin side) to the other (axle side) to adjust
I haven't looked at the book to see what they start at

Lol (that's me laughing at myself)...
Yeah, I guess it would make sense to put the shims on the outside behind the pin...I don't know how I didn't think of that.
I hope I'm not suffering from brain decay.
In the book (which is what I have on there now) it's 3 thin ones on the inside and one thick blue one on the outside of the axle.

Quick question.....
I just built two stealth tranny kits , one that I put in the worlds car and another I just put in my re re classic today.
In my re re, when I lock down the nut on the slipper all the way, it still slips....What would cause this??
My bad if I shouldn't be askin this in here.

Other way dude! Move em to the shaft side, from the pin side to get the shaft in further

"Phrasing? Are we not doing that anymore?" -Archer

N9ZES wrote:...with his blinky setup with zero motor timing! If I'd had the proper gears for my car, I'd have switched over to a blinky profile myself.

What is "blinky" ?

Also, would you recommend the X-Car ESC? Amazing price. I was about to order a Hobbywing Xerun 90a v2.1

Thanks.

GodSpeed wrote:What is "blinky" ?

Also, would you recommend the X-Car ESC? Amazing price. I was about to order a Hobbywing Xerun 90a v2.1

Thanks.

"Blinky" is what a zero timing, zero boost setup is called in the ESC. When set to this mode, the ESC will "blink" it's LED to show that it is in "blinky" mode. Obviously, this is used for "Blinky" class racing using typically 17.5 turn motors - or the rough equivalent to the old 27 turn brushed stock motors of the days of yore.

As far as the X-Car, I love it. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it to anyone. You can update it with the latest H-wing software, also. Just be sure to buy the USB programming interface (all of $5) to be able to utilize all the settings easily.

Chris

had my spur gear side cva pop out of the outdrive in my main on Saturday night...really bugged me....it looks as if they are to short on both sides but didn't seem like they would ever pop out unless the shocks were off of it and at full droop. seems that this damn car is beginning to be more trouble than its worth. I didn't even clean it after the race. its currently sitting on the shelf waiting for either inches of dust collection or if I decide to buy electronics for it again...the electronics that were in it are waiting to go into another buggy.waiting for the new top shaft to come from associated and then they want me to turn around and tear the trans down and send them the old one. oh well...I guess a b5m is in my future since this buggy cant even finish a stock buggy race without some sort of design flaw keeping me from having fun with it. on a side note...anyone popping ball cups?....is rpm ball cups in my future?

GoldRush wrote: on a side note...anyone popping ball cups?....is rpm ball cups in my future?

Yep. Kept popping outer steering ball cups - changed them out to RPM - still popped off twice (different sides, too). At least the RPM ball cups have a lot less slop than the stock parts.

I was popping ball cups just trying to adjust the wheel settings so they looked good.

Lynn

N9ZES wrote:

GodSpeed wrote:What is "blinky" ?

Also, would you recommend the X-Car ESC? Amazing price. I was about to order a Hobbywing Xerun 90a v2.1

Thanks.

"Blinky" is what a zero timing, zero boost setup is called in the ESC. When set to this mode, the ESC will "blink" it's LED to show that it is in "blinky" mode. Obviously, this is used for "Blinky" class racing using typically 17.5 turn motors - or the rough equivalent to the old 27 turn brushed stock motors of the days of yore.

As far as the X-Car, I love it. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it to anyone. You can update it with the latest H-wing software, also. Just be sure to buy the USB programming interface (all of $5) to be able to utilize all the settings easily.

Chris

Thanks for the response. Much appreciated.

GoldRush wrote:had my spur gear side cva pop out of the outdrive in my main on Saturday night...really bugged me....it looks as if they are to short on both sides but didn't seem like they would ever pop out unless the shocks were off of it and at full droop. seems that this damn car is beginning to be more trouble than its worth. I didn't even clean it after the race. its currently sitting on the shelf waiting for either inches of dust collection or if I decide to buy electronics for it again...the electronics that were in it are waiting to go into another buggy.waiting for the new top shaft to come from associated and then they want me to turn around and tear the trans down and send them the old one. oh well...I guess a b5m is in my future since this buggy cant even finish a stock buggy race without some sort of design flaw keeping me from having fun with it. on a side note...anyone popping ball cups?....is rpm ball cups in my future?

Anyone who runs one of these is running it for nostalgia. If you are running a stock class, then by all means you should be running a modern car. This thing is over twenty years old, a lot has gotten better since then. I'm asking politely here, but did you really think you where going to be competitive to todays buggies on an equal playing field?

If the buggy is setup right it can be very competitive against the modern buggies and there are plenty of guys on here that race them!

theibault wrote:

GoldRush wrote:had my spur gear side cva pop out of the outdrive in my main on Saturday night...really bugged me....it looks as if they are to short on both sides but didn't seem like they would ever pop out unless the shocks were off of it and at full droop. seems that this damn car is beginning to be more trouble than its worth. I didn't even clean it after the race. its currently sitting on the shelf waiting for either inches of dust collection or if I decide to buy electronics for it again...the electronics that were in it are waiting to go into another buggy.waiting for the new top shaft to come from associated and then they want me to turn around and tear the trans down and send them the old one. oh well...I guess a b5m is in my future since this buggy cant even finish a stock buggy race without some sort of design flaw keeping me from having fun with it. on a side note...anyone popping ball cups?....is rpm ball cups in my future?

Anyone who runs one of these is running it for nostalgia. If you are running a stock class, then by all means you should be running a modern car. This thing is over twenty years old, a lot has gotten better since then. I'm asking politely here, but did you really think you where going to be competitive to todays buggies on an equal playing field?

I don't think he's complaining about the car not being competitive, I think he's complaining about some quality issues with the kit.

As said above, there are plenty of guys on here routinely spanking modern cars with vintage rc10's

You can't always trust the manual for everything you have to use a bit of common sense.. The cvd's should be setup to be inside the angled section of the outdrives outer edge then try to bend the arm down to see if you need to change it in or out,in a crash the arm will deform it happens to all kits.. The ball studs should be cleaned with wax and grease remover or something similar prior to fitting the turnbuckle's as the studs will most likely have an oily residue on them and if still a problem change them for rpm ones.. If you have not cleaned them first you will have to try and clean both stud and rod ends and see how you go... Pretty basic preparation tasks for racing without stoppages IMO you have to look and see what you can do no matter how small or how unlikely to make them reliable for your driving style... The rc10 if prepared properly is very capable against any other kits available new or old...

bully wrote:You can't always trust the manual for everything you have to use a bit of common sense.. The cvd's should be setup to be inside the angled section of the outdrives outer edge then pry the arm down to see if you need to change it in or out,in a crash the arm will deform it happens to all kits.. The ball studs should be cleaned with wax and grease remover or something similar prior to fitting the turnbuckle's as the studs will most likely have an oily residue on them and if still a problem change them for rpm ones.. If you have not cleaned them first you will have to try and clean both stud and rod ends and see how you go... Pretty basic preparation tasks for racing without stoppages IMO you have to look and see what you can do no matter how small or how unlikely to make them reliable for your driving style... The rc10 if prepared properly is very capable against any other kits available new or old...

I do the same thing on my builds.. I just use a little alcohol and clean the balls.. takes off the machining oil.. haven't had my ball cups pop off easily.. also if you keep removing them they will stretch out and become loose..

Shawn