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Done and dusted, must say 1 of the toughest builds that I have done and that's saying something after 2 Avatee's and an Egress, big problems with the diff, slipper hub was sitting on the motor plate took a few shims to get the spacing from the plate ( read oil lite bushing), I also have a problem with 1 of the universals and heaps of binding have had to grind down the coupler, missing 4x 4-40x3/8 screws to hold the diff in place and 1 of the screws to hold on the diff plate, All in all fantastic stuff and I loved the challenge of building this kit , the B5M on the other hand went together like a dream very nut and bolt accounted for. Thanks Associated for bringing back the memories

NickTheGreek wrote:I'm a noob in RC , but I'm early in my fourth century. Ah man, I can't even believe I'm typing that.
But I'm young at heart. ...and I think I still look young in the mirror. But how I perceive myself to look doesn't mean that others perceive me the same way. I'm not really diggin' the 20 year old hot chicks behind the counters of 7 11s referring to me as sir. ....Im not a sir.....I'm over here playing with remote control cars...

Are you in your 40's?

That would be your 5th century.

Century?? Now that is OLD!! I myself am a young buck and only going to hit my 4th decade in a few days.. I hope I look as good as you at the ripe old age of 400!

Shawn

What did I say...."4th century" ?? Ah man,a brother is ancient......n I'm still ticking. It's that feta cheese and olive oil.

Yeah, you're right.....5th decade (thanks for traumatizing a brother)....
I was a lil off.

NickTheGreek wrote:What did I say...."4th century" ?? Ah man,a brother is ancient......n I'm still ticking. It's that feta cheese and olive oil.

Yeah, you're right.....5th decade (thanks for traumatizing a brother)....
I was a lil off.

I'm sure you'll be just fine.. I know the mind wanders a bit from time to time.. I tend to forget which day it is from time to time...

Shawn

We should rename this thread to "Geezer's Anonymous goes to the track".

Makes sense that many of us are the same age (I'm 44) building these re-issues. I started racing in '86 with an original Gold Pan. I don't recall ever going to the wide arms in front but I did have an MIP tranny on it. My 11 year-old son and I built a Hornet re-re together at Christmas and it didn't take long for him to ask "Dad, why don't you get a car?". Owww, stop twisting my arm! OK, let's go to the hobby shop, LOL! So I bought a B4.2 FT (last one on the shelf before the B5's) and we started going to the local track. Of course, the Hornet was completely out of place on a "modern" indoor clay track, but he gained some good practice with it. I wanted to get him a better car that was bomb-proof to take some abuse without breaking as easily as some of the carbon FT parts do. I almost bought a Gold Pan re-re until I saw the World's re-re announced and that was it!

So far, it's been interesting to compare the two cars. I don't recall the old Gold Pan being so flexible in the chassis. I can grab both ends of the car and bend them up and down quite a bit and the shock towers flex with suspension compression. The B4.2 is stiff as a board. I guess back then we didn't have anything to compare too, except Tamiya stuff.

Today we're headed to the track to get some practice. It will be interesting to see how the World's car does now that I have changed to the #2 shock pistons and installed the JConcepts bellcrank setup. I've got it set up for 17.5 blinky and 26/75 gears and hopefully that will be a nice combination.

Chris

A friend of mine saw my classic re re n labeled it "The G ride" .....
This is my latest "G ride" with the proper g background.....

N a picture of both G's ,side by side.....

Ah yeah babe......The G ride

Can some one please pass the acid!

mtbkym01 wrote:Picked up my Worlds Car kit today from my LHS, no oil spillage , and measured my top shaft from the gear to the flat = 13.62mm or 0.536 in.

Now, does this mean its good or bad??

Any thoughts on my top shaft?

mtbkym01 wrote:

mtbkym01 wrote:Picked up my Worlds Car kit today from my LHS, no oil spillage , and measured my top shaft from the gear to the flat = 13.62mm or 0.536 in.

Now, does this mean its good or bad??

Any thoughts on my top shaft?

I got my top shaft from AE on thursday and just rebuilt the tranny.. Just perfect now.. There was a noticeable difference in the machining of the flat in both top shafts... My measurements are below..

Here are my measurements.. my measurement is taken from the small ridge on the gear (not gear face) to the flat machined on the shaft..
Old one with slipper rub: 12.42mm (0.489") from gear to shaft flat..
New one: 13.27mm (0.522").. No more rub..

Big thanks goes out to Don and Tim over at AE for putting up with us all.. My Worlds RC10 is all done now and even painted.. Woohoo.. All I need now is electrics.. It is overall a great kit.. Thanks!! My WRC10 post will follow after taking some pictures..

Shawn

hondaman wrote:

mtbkym01 wrote:

mtbkym01 wrote:Picked up my Worlds Car kit today from my LHS, no oil spillage , and measured my top shaft from the gear to the flat = 13.62mm or 0.536 in.

Now, does this mean its good or bad??

Any thoughts on my top shaft?

I got my top shaft from AE on thursday and just rebuilt the tranny.. Just perfect now.. There was a noticeable difference in the machining of the flat in both top shafts... My measurements are below..

Here are my measurements.. my measurement is taken from the small ridge on the gear (not gear face) to the flat machined on the shaft..
Old one with slipper rub: 12.42mm (0.489") from gear to shaft flat..
New one: 13.27mm (0.522").. No more rub..

Big thanks goes out to Don and Tim over at AE for putting up with us all.. My Worlds RC10 is all done now and even painted.. Woohoo.. All I need now is electrics.. It is overall a great kit.. Thanks!! My WRC10 post will follow after taking some pictures..

Shawn

Good info Shawn, cheers, sounds like mine may well be ok then, good news I guess until I can confirm when I crack on with the build

it's gonna be a little while before i get any of these, but i was curious about the body. if anyone has an original to compare, are the new ones pretty close, or are there differences like the mirage SS (old to new)?

Update - I received my replacement top shaft yesterday in the mail. Took less than a week from my e-mail to receipt. I LOVE good customer service!

I installed it last night while tearing down the car after a hard day at the track yesterday and indeed, it works perfectly, as it should. It still is a bit "crunchy" like the original part was when new, but it will run in quickly again after a few laps.

As far as the car goes, we had a small issue when my son clipped a barrier and snapped off the left front shock shaft, but fortunately we found the spring and spring cup, and the shop at the track had a shaft and lower mount in stock, so we were up and running again quickly. After switching to 37.5 wt. oil in the front shocks, with #2 pistons all around, the car was 90% dialed in. The current layout has some very serious jumps and the car handles them very well now, on par with my B4.2 FT. Needs a bit of tweaking to get a bit better initial turn-in on corner entry, but overall, it certainly will not be the limiting factor for either mine or my son's racing success.

The real funny part is I have the same power setup in my B4.2 (Turnigy TrackStar 17.5T and X-Car 120A ESC), but with a boost profile with 26 deg. of advance and 25/81 gearing. I thought I was pretty fast down the back straight until my son passes me!!!! with his blinky setup with zero motor timing! If I'd had the proper gears for my car, I'd have switched over to a blinky profile myself. In either case, both our setups come of the track barely warm. I am seriously impressed by the HobbyKing products.

It's obvious how AE's cars have evolved over the years to handle the change in track styles. My B4.2 is FAR more stiff and rigid, with suspension that doesn't change geometry as much through it's stroke. But the powertrains are almost identical so once you can get the power to the ground, it is up to the driver. It's really fun to watch the "old school cool" hanging with the "new kids" and my son driving a car that was World Champion 10 years before he was even born!

Chris

scr8p wrote:it's gonna be a little while before i get any of these, but i was curious about the body. if anyone has an original to compare, are the new ones pretty close, or are there differences like the mirage SS (old to new)?

The new body in not pretty close, it's near exact when fully trimmed! The only major difference is the new AE part number that is removed when trimmed and the line that defines the window. The new window lines are a little bumpy where as the old are more straight. I have used a caliper on all corners and defined edges and there is no notable difference. A fantastic copy that would look perfect on any restoration!

Thanks Rod. I need to make some scoopless turbos for replicas. Just wanted to make sure the rest of it was the same. I can remove the scoop.