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This one has a little better view of the bigger jump and less shadows, good fun.
http://youtu.be/PjpRXfjcX6M

i'm sure the setup instructions probably called for light oil, i'm going to try some 45wt in the stock shocks and see how they do, but i can see the car benefiting from the extra pack of the larger shocks.

kaiser wrote:i'm sure the setup instructions probably called for light oil, i'm going to try some 45wt in the stock shocks and see how they do, but i can see the car benefiting from the extra pack of the larger shocks.

The shocks come recommending the 25wt oil the kit uses. They didn't seem to have any extra pack than the std ones. Maybe with heavier oil they might work better at controlling bottoming but I found just going to 30wt oil the traction both front and rear got less so be wary of this. On my track it just made the buggy vague in the steering and wanted to step out under power a lot more.

My friend made it over for some fun on the track with the Scorpions.
http://youtu.be/Br2glHRFHSY

the more i watch your videos the more i want to build a backyard track.

kaiser wrote:the more i watch your videos the more i want to build a backyard track.

Cool, go for it. My friend is going to build one at his place, it will be only about half the size but still good for some fun.

i still can't get over how fast this car is with a 17.5 in it.

by far this is the best driving car of the early "scale" buggies.

kaiser wrote:i still can't get over how fast this car is with a 17.5 in it.

by far this is the best driving car of the early "scale" buggies.

I'd have to agree, years ahead of its time in handling, awesome chassis balance, my friend agrees they drive brilliantly. A tonne of fun. Another friend is coming to check them out next run.
Here's a bit of track edge footage from the past weekend.
http://youtu.be/cEqiTfhrhtI

I am so impressed with the on track performance of the Scorpion, it exceeded my expectations by a mile. I had it on track the other day racing my mate with his b4. ( whatever they are up to ) and it was just as quick and had more consistent grip while sliding. I didn't get any video of that but my friend agreed the thing is a rocketship, he says it'd beat his AE SC truck also. I think this buggy could compete easily with the classic RC10 and IMO looks so much sexier.
http://youtu.be/eNjtqqKGMPg

I would say its because of its futuristic design of the trailing arms, they are made with so much in mind, during compression, the tires camber inwards, that provides more digging grip during cornering, also the rear tires are slightly angled inwards (toe-in) when you look from the top, that is to keep it straight when its moving, the thin fronts increase handling and turning, slipper clutch transfers torque effectly and smoothly to the drive train and tires, no overpowering or over spinning the tires, always consistent rotational - turning grip.

imagine this against the tamiya sand scorcher, super champ that were heavy and poor in performance. But they looked pretty good in appearance

You can use kyosho gold shocks on the scorp, will improve damping performance, the thing is that the arm travel is short and limited I guess

travel is the issue, which as soon as i get some extra funds i am going to experiment with shocks.

i know we won't be able to increase travel, but if dampening can be improved enough then we can take modern jumps better.
on straights and sweepers it's a rocket, not too bad in the esses either, it's the time lost on bad landings or rolling the jumps to avoid those landings that hurts it.

ron wrote:I would say its because of its futuristic design of the trailing arms, they are made with so much in mind, during compression, the tires camber inwards, that provides more digging grip during cornering, also the rear tires are slightly angled inwards (toe-in) when you look from the top, that is to keep it straight when its moving, the thin fronts increase handling and turning, slipper clutch transfers torque effectly and smoothly to the drive train and tires, no overpowering or over spinning the tires, always consistent rotational - turning grip.

imagine this against the tamiya sand scorcher, super champ that were heavy and poor in performance. But they looked pretty good in appearance

You can use kyosho gold shocks on the scorp, will improve damping performance, the thing is that the arm travel is short and limited I guess

Hey Ron, the arm mount design is effective in keeping the outside tyre planted and driving and a little toe in helps also with predictability. I noticed when the steering is turned the buggy tips noticeably increasing weight to the outside wheel during cornering or drifting, I think this really helps with the traction it has during a slide while turning.
The slipper is set up std which still allows me to spin the crap out of the tyres and even wheelie on grippy stuff, I haven't really played with that I just use throttle control.
I have the option shocks but found I like the handling with the std shocks, although the arm is short the travel is good and the suspension is very effective on the rough although it does bottom off bigger jumps. A comment by someone on my video of option shocks says he tried up to 3000wt oil in the shocks with no result to remedy the bottoming, the thing that worked was to replace the tyres rims and inserts with lower profile more modern ones and this helped. It seems the foam insert compresses and causes the bottoming. I like the look std so for me I won't be going this way.

My friend has just bought a Wild One and is bringing it out for a spin, I guess we'll see how the performance compares.

kaiser wrote:travel is the issue, which as soon as i get some extra funds i am going to experiment with shocks.

i know we won't be able to increase travel, but if dampening can be improved enough then we can take modern jumps better.
on straights and sweepers it's a rocket, not too bad in the esses either, it's the time lost on bad landings or rolling the jumps to avoid those landings that hurts it.

I'm not sure travel is a problem as the suspension allows the buggy to bottom so there's plenty of travel, it feels like the dampening could be increased to improve the jump landings ( the buggy will lose traction ) but if you read above the person tried 3000wt with no difference to bottoming, it might be worth trying some more modern rims and tyres. I found the medium front tyres increase the cornering grip and seem to smooth it a little also without seeming too much. Maybe the jconcepts rc10 tyres would be worth a shot.

CHKTM - i AGREE seen how she moves, the slow mo vids are SO SO MUCH needed to see what it is doing, the suspension travel and all that, I LOVE IT.

Wonder who initially designed the scorp??? What kind of person or team were they? Such brilliance, that is why I LOVE vintage RC so much. Such ingenuity.

The rears may allow or assist in bottoming out, the shocks can have inserts placed so they don't travel so far but I guess the issue are the tires compressing under impact and allowing the buggy to bottom out. If more travel was possible, you would not have that issue, trying the low pro tires will help, if you don't want to change the cool and realistic look of the rear tires, put in some hard foam wrapped in a thin layer of soft foam to stop the rears from squashing too much. I have the vintage GOODYEAR knobby tires, they are hard enough to stand and not compress so much, never owned or tried the medium rear tires, I don't think they have a hard tire? Try tamiya SS paddle tires, they should work, right?

Another thing is lighting the buggy, will help to some extent if the jumps are forgivable!

I have totally different setup to mine, electric gear is all morden, I am using 1/18 scale electronics, all so small, takes less room, the motor is tiny as hell, 18 t 1/18 scale one, I don't think it will make it shoot like a rocket but I like for a 1/10 scale to have something of that size for appearance. you can also get the smaller battery packs - LIPOS, more power etc. I will say this - mechanical wise buggies of the 80s and 90s wiere very good in performance, especially from kyosho, electronics were huge, cumbersome, heavy and spoilt the look of the buggy, it just filled up the whole buggy. Well now with small tiny modern electronics we have a chance of getting the best from both the past and present. Just my thought.

Compare the 1/7 scale sorp, see how small the motor is compared to its size, you can effortlessly use the traxax 1/16, 380 motor too.

Also using carbon fiber and replacing your aluminum parts helps a lot, I bought a 1.5mm sheet and cut that to make the triangular plates that hold the rear trailing arms, the gearbox mount etc and bought the front servo saver mount, these are like 30%-40% lighter than the aluminum parts you have as stock.