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They actually work really well. The shock tools should be in the shock bag, I'm pretty sure I remember the re-releases all coming with them. Wouldn't surprise me if they stopped though

No such parts, no paper manual, not even a spare E-clip...

Mango wrote: ↑Fri Jul 12, 2024 3:16 pm No such parts, no paper manual, not even a spare E-clip...

E-Clips

I was expecting multiple cars / parts to come in this week, but US Customs and USPS have decided I shouldn't have any of these yet. So, I needed a "quick" project for my Saturday night (MIL is now staying at my house so Friday and Saturday nights aren't what they used to be), and maybe into Sunday. Not to start into a full build, but finish something real quick. So, I pulled out my long forgotten TC4. I bought this back in the '99-'09 range (I am old so I speak in decades not really years) when RC drifting first hit the world, and I bought this just for that purpose. I drifted it for about 1-2 hours, and realized that was boring, and packed it away. Within the past couple of years, I took it out, and took it apart a little, to experiment with using it as a 4wd buggy platform, which has been done numerous times, but I gave up on that and packed it away again. Until tonight. When I pulled it out, I quickly realized that I lost two inner hinge pins, but a search through the AE parts bins came up with a couple from a T4 that are the same. I am hoping I am not missing much more, although my fastener lot for it is looking pretty weak. I hope I can slap this together tonight, then hit the wheel bin and body bin, and find suitable parts, and whip up a last minute, no plan build for the rest of the weekend.

morrisey0 wrote: ↑Sat Jul 13, 2024 6:37 pm ...but I gave up on that and packed it away again. Until tonight.

I did something similar, with this Tamiya TB02. I picked it up dog knows how many years ago, nice and almost complete, but the seller forgot to mention that it had a broken diff. I disassembled it completely, and that's when I found out that TB02 diff parts can be rare and expensive.... so it stayed disassembled for a few years.

A few years later, and I found an aftermarket solid axle made by Xenon Racing Products, so grabbed it and started the rebuild process. For the life of me, though, I couldn't get it to work properly.... the gears wouldn't mesh properly with the solid axle, and would skip teeth. No way I could put power through that, so the whole lot got benched.

Fast forward another few years to last night, and I decided to have another go. Replaced the bevel pinion gear with a new one I was lucky enough to locate, but still the same issue. Then I noticed on the instructions that came with the solid axle (in Japanese) that there was a 0.2mm spacer pictured on one side of the axle, before the bearing. Could that possibly make the difference? Yep..... a 0.2mm spacer is the difference between gear mesh and skipping mesh. Could have knocked me over with a feather!

So now the rebuild can be completed, and I may actually be able to drive this car!!! Watch this space....

Incredible_Serious wrote: ↑Sat Jul 13, 2024 9:42 pm Then I noticed on the instructions that came with the solid axle (in Japanese) that there was a 0.2mm spacer pictured on one side of the axle, before the bearing. Could that possibly make the difference? Yep..... a 0.2mm spacer is the difference between gear mesh and skipping mesh. Could have knocked me over with a feather!

That's awesome that you got it worked out!! It is amazing how some small obstacle can frustrate us sometimes to just stop working on a project, and just pack it away ............. for years!


My TC4 evening was pretty fun! Ended up being more looking through boxes than really building stuff, but fun! I think I only needed to come up with some spacers for the hinge pins, and the car was complete. I was missing the hex adapters also, but ended up needing wide ones anyway, so no big deal. Dug out a 27mhz radio and found some crystals, and the thing lit right up! I thought the old Novak HAVOC BL system would have issues, but none.

I don't have much as far as touring car bodies sitting around, but I do have a brand new Fazer '69 Camaro body. I bought a Fazer with a pretty rough body on it, so ordered up a new one. But then the Fazer Rivi came out, and I bought that body (and chassis) so I could run that. So, Camaro body was sitting around looking for a home. The body is 210, and the chassis is 190, but I am going to try to fake it with wide hex adapters.
2-3 threads on the wheel nuts should be fine. Then I went digging and found my old HPI Cragars, which haven't been on a car in probably 20 years or so. I found the wider rear tires for them, but not the fronts, and TBH, haven't found any loose normal width touring car tires yet, so that may need to be a purchase. I'd really like this to just be a parts bin build though! Also not sure if I have a good paint color for a '69 Camaro; will need to go dig.

The TC4 is coming together well for a nothing build. Found some no-tread tires for the front. I am sure I have something better somewhere, just haven't found it yet. The back wheel track is on point, and the front may still be a bit narrow ............. but they are only on with about 1/2 wheel nut thread, so need to change something there in the long run. I think the vintage HPIs are perfect on there though, so tough one. Other than that, just needs final body prep and paint, and she is done. The wife walked in while I was trimming the body and asked what color I was going to paint it, and I told her I hadn't looked at my selection yet. She just replied that I should paint it like Eleanor (later Eleanor). Well, I don't have any dark silvers or gunmetals in stock, so that will have to wait until I can get to the store, which won't be today.

Mounted tires to the 870C only to realize I bought the wrong wheels and that YZ-10 wheels are much shallower. They were a real pain to glue too...guess I'll be doing that again or buying different rear hubs.

Made a template for a bumper.....not sure the best/easiest way to cut the kydex.....so youtube videos, sleep on it, then give it a go tomorrow I suppose.

TravelinTravis wrote: ↑Mon Jul 15, 2024 10:12 am not sure the best/easiest way to cut the kydex.....

I use heavy duty shears or aviation snips.

Maybe clean up the edges and corners with sanding blocks, belt sander, or Dremel.

does emptying out the dehumidifier count

K

TravelinTravis wrote: ↑Mon Jul 15, 2024 10:12 am Made a template for a bumper.....not sure the best/easiest way to cut the kydex.....so youtube videos, sleep on it, then give it a go tomorrow I suppose. 20240715_144516-min.jpg20240715_155822-min.jpg

I usually cut with bandsaw with fine tooth blade then sand the edges.

TravelinTravis wrote: ↑Mon Jul 15, 2024 10:12 am Made a template for a bumper.....not sure the best/easiest way to cut the kydex.....so youtube videos, sleep on it, then give it a go tomorrow I suppose. 20240715_144516-min.jpg20240715_155822-min.jpg

You can use the score and snap method, just like you do with lexan, but use a heavy utility knife to score the Kydex, not even very deep, just use a new sharp blade. This was entirely score and snap, it works with angles and curves too; was easier than I thought it was going to be.

I'd go for the snap method followed by a band saw if available.
Another method I've done many times is using a mini table saw or tile saw if you've got one around. Particularly the tile saw...I'm not condoning it.. but the power and rpm of my cheap Ryobi tile saw is fine and has done wonders cutting all sorts of plastics, fiberglass, composites. Just use an appropriate blade. The water keeps it cool and cuts down on dust.

Decided to fix my wheel mix up by making some spacers. Also the inspiration for the odd tire choice. Masami's rere 870C