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I was going to ask about that spring....

I'm learning how to drive around a track again after 25 years, and I think I should show her off as she sits now:



Front:
Bottom loading (0.56’er) shocks
JG A-Main front bumper (A-01R)
Original short arms and bulkhead blocks
Futaba S132H servo mounted forward (to 8-32 nose plate screw as shown).



Added

AE (6419) gold shafts. 30wt and #2 work the best so far.
Perched 12mm Lower Spring Cups of unknown origin. (Prob. Losi - I found that I got the cleanest travel using cut front springs and perched lower cups.) The red ones are Big Bore diameter and sl. stiffer than silver best I can tell.
RPS/Losi bellcranks (7009)
Steering Linkage - Bolink hd ball links on inside and AE Shock Bottoms on outside. Thorp connecting rods.
B4 30 degree caster blocks (9593) – Turned backwards to get 25 degrees, drilled/filed to fit.
Losi (Matt Francis Red) XXX-T Front Axles
RC10 In-Line Steering blocks (6221) Drilled out slightly to accept the above
Proline B4 Velocity Front Wheels (2666)



Rear:
Shocks (bottom loading) with 1.32 bodies, original cups even.
Original (6355) rear arms
Original Long-tubed bulkhead (6323) with new inner camber link hole towards wing tube
One-hole rear tower redrilled for 2 additional (inward) shock holes. (I’m using the middle one at this point)
Hot Trick or Parma Gear Cover – can’t remember which.

Added
MIP ¼” shiny CVDs (1195)
Wheels (I think) are an old Proline 2.175 set for ¼” axles, but I don’t know for sure.
1.5 degree Rear carriers (I lengthened the camber link a bit by chopping off the top and installing the balls vertically, mellowing out the camber variation a bit.)
6 gear outfitted with
• Thorp 48 Pitch Gears (4752, 4753 and 4754)
• Thorp Outdrives (4751) with inner tubes (1/8” wide crush tubes) and outdrive bearings
• Buds diff rings
• RPS/Losi ball bearing diff tube (4005)
• Robinson Racing 90 T Spur, (21T pinions is ok for know, but I’ll be able to go smaller on the spur at some point (the Dualsky 17.5 is an ICE CUBE btw). I still need to take it kinda easy and not hurt anyone or anything )
• Avid 1/8” ceramic spur balls
• AE (6581) 3/32” carbide balls in thrust bearing
1.02 (6417) gold shafts
30wt and #2s with some red 12mm springs of unknown origin (Prob Losi - again a hair stiffer that AE silver as best that I can tell).


Other:
Original chassis, nose and motor plate, refurbed 1986 drill bit accidents as shown.
Original prepainted Protech I body. (bleieve that Original Edinger Lexan has lasted 28 years!)
Yokomo 834b wing with original diamond buttons (at this point I don't see a use for a whole lot of wing, I'll leave that to those Losi 22 airplanes...er buggies )
Wing tubes = nose tubes with set screw wing wire keepers
Thorp Mfg Turnbuckle Linkage Kit (4710) with Lunsford Punisher Ball Cups

Added
A&L chassis stiffener (re-re courtesy of vintageteamaandl.com). w/o it I’d be on the shelf. (Thanks Daryl Lane )
1” x ¼” thick adhesive backed foam weather stripping (makes good battery spacer blocks)
Battery Cup – cut and fastened way forward near steering servo with servo tape
Dualsky (Track and Field) Z5 17.5 brushless motor. (this thing is my favorite motor I’ve owned ever owned)
Novak GTB on profile #5
AKA Rebar Super Soft Front tires, with a shared Trinity Bomb One Firm Foam (cut in half)
AKA Vektor Super Soft Rear tires with AKA Soft Red cs inserts

Springs are some Red 15mm that I got in an ebay box. For the front, I cut one in half and fabbed to fit. These are just a hair stiffer than silver and I like them so far better than the softer green brown route, but I raced it on a grippy clay with some jumps scattered here and there.


I went ahead and went crazy, shoving the battery so far forward that it is not retained by the bulkhead cup but instead by a zip tie across the chassis stiffener, but I was surprised to see it jumps pretty darn level

Viva la short arms and 6 gears baby .

After a few trips to SDRC (http://sdrcraceway.com/) I'm finally making some consistency around the track. Just practice time so far. My driving's getting better every time I go, so I really haven't don a ton of tinkering, but the current has setup evolved slightly. ..



6355 Rear arms, 3 degree (T2) blocks and 0 degree carriers.
30wt and #2 Pistons with Red Losi (or Traxxas?- I can't really tell) springs all around.
One of the Proline 6" wings cut to about 1/2" wicker. (really makes it easy to keep the nose up through doubles and triples with the battery weight as far forward as I have it.)
titanium turnbuckles and steering linkage.
Geared 87:23.



Notables:
The unadvanced Track and Field (Dualsky) 17.5 is still only warm to the touch. Probably 120 maybe? (I'm still too old school for a thermometer.) It's plenty quick for me at this point.
The red AKA closed cell inserts with the supersoft AKA Vektor rears are broken in and I don't think I'll be changing them. No one else runs them at SDRC that I've seen. but I like the consistency. I can predictably break it free and slide it around under the track's (slightly drier) practice conditions. Only problems are right after the track is watered down, it can be a bit too loosey goosey though.

Still looks awesome... and still love that paint and decal scheme. Classic!

Went on a diet over this past weekend, and shaved about 20-25 grams with a new steering setup and rear wing. Down to 1523 Gee's with a 4000mah in it:




The RPS steering was cool, but a bit heavy. Thanks again to Daryl and vintageteamaandl.com


And I broke down and retrofitted some Losi 22 wing mounts (the ones for the mid motor setup)..

that looks good. i really need to get some AKA tires...

JK Racing wrote:that looks good. i really need to get some AKA tires...

Most the 22/B4 types I've seen at SDRC poo poo the Vektors, but I tried the seemingly popular Barcodes and I hated them so much I never managed to get them broken in. This is just my opinion, but with the RC10, there is so much camber change with suspension compression, that those triangle things along the edges just cause inconsistency. The uniformity of the vektors sure seem easier to control and slide it when and where I wanna, even with my rudimentary driving.

Y'ernat Al wrote:rudimentary driving.

alas, I have found someone at my skill level

Great work on that chassis milling/drilling!

Car looks like a winner!

Thanks Rod. Update: First of all I can't resist some pics. I'm going to get into it and overhaul a couple things, but first some pics:



With use, I have some modifications that I've found to work well:

Added

A&L re-issue Bellcranks
Steering Linkage - Some 6-32 or 3.5mm titanium I had, threaded into (drilled) 4-40 ball ends. (The old Thorp links are useless for running).
Hard coated threaded 1.32 bodies, original lower spring cups tho.
New (worlds style) rear arms with 3 degree (T2) mounts
Savox SH1250MG steering servo
Losi 22 wing mounts, the set for the mid motor setup (Note if you see a guy with a 22, he probably has a pair of these to give you)
A 5.5" wing with about 3/8" wicker on it.


And some stuff that will be going into the overhaul:
XXX CR rear carriers (they fit with a little filing - flanged inner bearing and unflanged outer bearing fyi).
New 6207 front mounts. The old ones are too wobbly/worn through the pin holes now.
GT2 30 degree caster blocks (7922) – Still turned backwards to get 25 degrees, (prefereable to the B4 9593's I realized - beefier for the 1/8" reaming).
A new Kimbrough #200 servo saver. I want one with the little Savox, but hopefully this one will fight back a bit more. The old white one is giving it up on higher speed sweepers I think.

I finally had to give that original shell a break. The nearly 30 year old paint job and thick lexan seemed bullet proof, but it is time for and update (I have to admit this body fits like a glove):





Haven't looked ath this thread for a while. Nothing's changed much, except I threw out the XXX CR rear carriers after breaking off ball studs in all the holes. Run RPM 7027 rear carriers now, with a higher hinge pin hole drilled and reamed in them so the sit similar to a stock set.

I like the one red and one black arm thing you've got going on.

Looks great on there. We need to meet up again and bang some doors.

JK Racing wrote:Looks great on there. We need to meet up again and bang some doors.

Yep, probably after the first of the year I'll be up again. Mike owes me a couple bumpers too.

RC10th wrote:I like the one red and one black arm thing you've got going on.

and thanks..broke one banging doors .