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That sounds great, MOmo - good luck with the racing!

If you can, please post some pics of your build.

scr8p wrote:i had terrible on power push with the 3 degree arm mounts. i swapped them out for a set of 1.5's and it was much better.

I'll look into it, thanks for the tip.
Im running the long A&L front tower, with truck green springs up front and Silvers in the back, I think 35wt oil all arond.

Im going to boost it up w/ a 19t motor, but it should improve the large cross-over jump at my local track.

Painted up a new shell in my "team" colors, and once I get my other JConcepts shells for my BJ4WE and B4 painted I'll get them up. I'll also try and get some shots from our Vintage club race.

aeiou wrote:That sounds great, MOmo - good luck with the racing!
If you can, please post some pics of your build.

Some Pics are found here:
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=4735



MOmo

aeiou wrote:The runner is done. Well, almost... I still need to put a better servo in it, add the LiPo cut-off and drill and tap a new hole for the lower gear cover screw. But it’s done enough to get in a test run or two.

As I suspected, I ended up with the 1.02” shocks in the front. I’m not sure who makes the body (JConcepts, maybe?). It came with a B4 lot, already painted and just slightly used. Since it sort of fits the theme, I thought I’d try it out on this build and it ended up fitting pretty well (where would we be without Velcro?).

I hope to get this to the track over the next couple of weeks. I’ll follow up with some more photos of the track session (dirty pictures ).

What gear cover are you using that a new hole has to be tapped for the lower gear cover screw?

Car looks sweet!

EB4GT wrote:What gear cover are you using that a new hole has to be tapped for the lower gear cover screw?

Car looks sweet!

Thanks.

I'm using the #9247 B2/B3 gear cover on that car. I actually ended up not drilling that extra hole. The top screw hole lined up just fine and for the lower mount, I made use of the extra flashing material and just cut out a small notch for the screw to grab.

Just as an FYI - the last couple of these covers I ordered were clear and did not come with the black adjustment plug as shown here:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3219&P=7

very stealtly looking! looks fast just standing still very nice work!

I'm building up one of these cars, and was wondering what size the hole on the B4 caster block was? Did anyone ream it out or something different? Thanks

they'll have to be drilled out to 1/8" for the older rc10 hinge pins.

Ok guys, sorry to join this topic a little late. It looks like there are several "experiments" going on here especially with regards to the rear hubs. So, quick summary:

It appears everyone is using a variation of the worlds front end with B4 front wheels, right? For the rear, it's basically stock with several types of rear hubs/cvd axles to get B4 rear wheels mounted.

Does that sound about right? I'd like to build something similar and I'd think I have a good starting point. Then I can add my own experiments/confusion to the thread.

RichieRich wrote:It appears everyone is using a variation of the worlds front end with B4 front wheels, right? For the rear, it's basically stock with several types of rear hubs/cvd axles to get B4 rear wheels mounted.

you don't have to use the worlds front end. the standard rc10 front end is the same width between the outer hinge pins. but, you'll have to either use the b4 knuckles, castor blocks, and axles. or, the gt wide front axles on the rc10 knuckles and castor blocks to get back to the stock track width running b4 rims.

i'm pretty sure i remember seeing some guys' at the v-nats using the standard rc10 rear arms, with b4 carriers. i'm not sure which cvd', though..... maybe b4 axles with rc10, b2, b3 bones. paul, david, and myself use the rpm worlds or dynotech arms with a stock chassis. i'm not sure which cvd's david's car has, but paul's and mine use the b44 rear cvd's. i like the old style losi hubs, but david and paul used the rpm gt carriers.

I used RC10T rear hubs with unflanged bearings and B4 CVD's, though I'm pretty sure the use of RPM carriers together with B44 CVD's is a better option. The key point would also be to eliminate any caster when the rear is bottoming by changing the inner pivot point of the rear turnbuckles. I realised that with my stock "rear turnbuckle" set-up (though with inside and outside limiters on the shocks), the B4 CVD's get worn by hitting the outdrives when the rear is bottoming.

Asso_man! wrote:I used RC10T rear hubs with unflanged bearings and B4 CVD's, though I'm pretty sure the use of RPM carriers together with B44 CVD's is a better option. The key point would also be to eliminate any caster when the rear is bottoming by changing the inner pivot point of the rear turnbuckles. I realised that with my stock "rear turnbuckle" set-up (though with inside and outside limiters on the shocks), the B4 CVD's get worn by hitting the outdrives when the rear is bottoming.

How is your caster changing? Or is your camber changing? So, the B4 CVDs are too long which is why they are hitting the outdrives? Great info!

Has anyone tried marrying an MIP B4 axle with an MIP rc10 bone as scr8p had mentioned?

RichieRich wrote:Has anyone tried marrying an MIP B4 axle with an MIP rc10 bone as scr8p had mentioned?

i know mark (from the v-nats track) used b4 axles with rc10 bones on his v-nats ride. atleast that's what he put down in his build thread. but he used nitro evader rims (b3). so, i gues the b4 axles were to just get a little more track width.

and the more i think about it, there's no way you could use b4 rear carriers and rc10, b2,b3 mip bones. they wouldn't be long enough. mark must have used stock rc10 carriers.

i'm glad to see someone else that has brought this up again...i too am looking to create my own rc10 with a modern twist. it would be nice to clarify which setup has been working the best for the rear end.

vintage AE wrote:i'm glad to see someone else that has brought this up again...i too am looking to create my own rc10 with a modern twist. it would be nice to clarify which setup has been working the best for the rear end.

well as with any type of racing, everyone is drives different and likes a different feel. so what might work for one person, might suck for another. but if your looking to know the best working setup in pure function...... david, paul, and myself all have this setup working just fine.

to be honest, even if it didn't work from a performance stand point, i still think this setup is pretty sweet. it's always cool mating old and new. i like making stuff work. bolting together direct fit parts gets boring after awhile.

Darn it, Jason, would you quit horsing around and post a detailed parts list with step-by-step instructions? I mean, come on dude…