RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Dangeruss wrote: ↑Sat Dec 09, 2023 4:32 pm

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Sat Dec 09, 2023 12:09 am This kit was no joke, not sure how someone could install this between races, it was very involved...

Don't know anyone did, was more of an install-at-home thing. Tuning it was nearly as difficult. Something regular slipper clutches had over it, quicker/easier adjustments. Multiple 'Drives with their own weight oil was the wicked setup though. Swap 'em out and go.

A lot of guys thought it worked like a torque converter, but a torque converter forces fluid through the stator and multiplies fluid pressure like a scroll wheel on a turbocharger. Rather, Hydra-Drives operate like a rotary (Houdaille) shock, using fluid as a dampener instead of friction like a slipper clutch.

Now, had Losi fluted the stator and housing it could have created a torque converter and the "X" lineup would've been like...

In the video from '93, at 7:53, he made it sound like Brian Kinwald changed to the Hydra Drive between qualifying races; perhaps I inferred more than was there.


I haven't run the kit yet, but I was expecting this to be like putting a fly wheel weight on a two-stroke dirt bike, to smooth out the power band overall, instead of off and on. I wouldn't remember how this RC10 originally drove though, it's been so long.

Not sure what weight that silicone Hydra Drive oil is, but far more viscous than 30wt shock oil.


Fried my Airtronics Rx today - no noise, no funny smell - had it all plugged in and working with the steering servo, then cut off that blade on the Rooster J connector and plugged it in, that killed the Rx.


Found a cool blue Airtronics Rx replacement for cheap, in a lot of other old Rx's. I'll make sure the Rooster is converted properly next time. eBay seller pic:


If you need an era correct Rx (early to mid 90's), specifically one seen in the pic above, PM me, I'll test them all.

That blue one looks like you don't need to convert the Rooster. Red is the middle wire just like Futaba. But your current servo would need to be converted.
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Frankentruck wrote: ↑Sat Dec 09, 2023 6:39 pm That blue one looks like you don't need to convert the Rooster. Red is the middle wire just like Futaba. But your current servo would need to be converted.
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Screenshot_20231209-173717.png

I had heard that after 2002 Airtronics/Sanwa was very similar to Futaba, wonder if this is a newer Rx.

That has the Airtronics Z plug, which is wired the same as a Futaba J. However, the Z plug is a bit on the "petite" side, requiring you to trim down most other plug housings to fit.

A better pic hopefully, same model number as my current one.




I don't see the blade slot in the blue one. They look the same to me, though not sure why the blue or what that's about.

Is there a special tool to remove the Tamiya battery connector?

I need to solder the JST adapter to the Rooster plug, for the BEC. Can't figure out how to get that off without ruining anything.

This is the difference in the old vs new Airtronics connector.
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GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Sat Dec 09, 2023 7:39 pm Is there a special tool to remove the Tamiya battery connector?

I need to solder the JST adapter to the Rooster plug, for the BEC. Can't figure out how to get that off without ruining anything.

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?p=548015&hilit=pin+extractor#p548015
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GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Sat Dec 09, 2023 7:39 pm Is there a special tool to remove the Tamiya battery connector?

I need to solder the JST adapter to the Rooster plug, for the BEC. Can't figure out how to get that off without ruining anything.

There is no need. The Rooster has a BEC. It will back power in through its three wire plug.

Inside the receiver, the positive and negetive rails are shared on all channels.

Oh, I misread. I thought he waa planning to change types of battery connectors.

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Sat Dec 09, 2023 7:43 pm This is the difference in the old vs new Airtronics connector.
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Screenshot_20231209-184126.png

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Screenshot_20231209-183815.png

Much thanks!

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Sat Dec 09, 2023 7:55 pm

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Sat Dec 09, 2023 7:39 pm Is there a special tool to remove the Tamiya battery connector?

I need to solder the JST adapter to the Rooster plug, for the BEC. Can't figure out how to get that off without ruining anything.

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?p=548015&hilit=pin+extractor#p548015
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Screenshot_20231209-185333.png

The pin extractor! Nice! That's exactly what I need. Now how to go about getting one .

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Sat Dec 09, 2023 7:58 pm

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Sat Dec 09, 2023 7:39 pm Is there a special tool to remove the Tamiya battery connector?

I need to solder the JST adapter to the Rooster plug, for the BEC. Can't figure out how to get that off without ruining anything.

There is no need. The Rooster has a BEC. It will back power in through its three wire plug.

Inside the receiver, the positive and negetive rails are shared on all channels.

Is it possible that that's why the Airtronics Rx got cooked, because I had the battery connection to the Rx BEC, and the Rooster 3-pin hooked up?

Thanks!

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Sat Dec 09, 2023 8:05 pm Oh, I misread. I thought he waa planning to change types of battery connectors.

I was just trying to get the pins out of the connector, to be able to solder. Might not need to now, if I understand correctly. Thanks again!

Just tested the BEC in the Rooster, as @juicedcoupe mentioned, and as he said there's no need for any other power source. Thanks for that!!


That must be what killed my Rx, voltage in the battery port and then the BEC power from the Rooster.

Now I need to figure out the pre-2002 Airtonics/Sanwa Rx servo pin out. I think it's backwards, or scrambled somehow from the Futaba pin out. At least it won't fry the Rx this time.

Squeezing the throttle and seeing the LED on the Rooster flash green, made me feel better, confirmation it actually works.

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Sat Dec 09, 2023 6:25 pm In the video from '93, at 7:53, he made it sound like Brian Kinwald changed to the Hydra Drive between qualifying races; perhaps I inferred more than was there.

I haven't run the kit yet, but I was expecting this to be like putting a fly wheel weight on a two-stroke dirt bike, to smooth out the power band overall, instead of off and on. I wouldn't remember how this RC10 originally drove though, it's been so long.

Not sure what weight that silicone Hydra Drive oil is, but far more viscous than 30wt shock oil.

Indeed, did sound like he and the rest of the team installed them between races. Probably why they got paid the big bucks

I've heard weights as low as 500-1000cst for the light oil but consensus here puts it at 2000cst for the light 5000cst for the medium and 7000cst for the heavy. Don't know since I've still got my original fluid.

Might have some flywheel effect... inertia does do funny things ...

My Losi Hydra Drive oil came without the box checked regarding the weight. How you know what you have?




Inertia is serious business.

Yeah, mine wasn't marked either. Oil in the kits was standard (medium) weight. IIRC the instructions have a parts list that specifies the weight in the kit bottle.

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Sun Dec 10, 2023 12:39 am Inertia is serious business.

Don't you hate it when you have to explain the punchline...