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GoMachV wrote: ↑Sun Dec 10, 2017 6:13 pm I almost told him to turn his down, but the thread would be a problem, even with a bushing they would stick out pretty far

Haha... That pic is freaking crazy.

I seriously thought about making some front axles(easy enough to do) but for 6 bucks on ebay? Not for now... and they would have been titanium!

Alright, got those front axles this morning!

Swapped those axles out and now it doesn't look goofy anymore.

I spent 3 nights fitting a Mirage body to the B1M. Chopped of the back (I like it that way) and pretty much pleased with the look and fit. I went to the lathe at 0530 this morning and made a front body post from...yep, titanium! With an 8mm long delrin spacer, everything worked perfectly for me.

Something else I'd like to mention about the conversion kit. The way the rear brace tubes are attached to the back of the tub makes it an ideal place to grab the buggy and pick it up. I'd say a turn marshal will appreciate that.

Lookin' good!
Funny you mention grabbing by the rear brace tubes... I grab mine by there all the time, it's such a great handle

Nice work Nomad. Like the body choice as well. I run an Andy's Renegade with the back chopped; I think it also looks better that way. Now, just fit a faux VW motor and it's perfect!

mk-Zero wrote: ↑Wed Nov 15, 2017 1:35 pm BTW, those beautiful towers, CNC'd by Factory Works/GoMachV himself! And the gorgeous motor plates, CNC'd by none other than our own durb69 AKA Derrick Durbin

Thanks for the compliment man! The kit turned out awesome!

Looks great!

I got a couple of new parts for the buggy this week, Futaba Rx and some Avid B64 battery hold down thumbscrews. To use the thumbscrews, I reamed out the holes in the CPD strap to 1/4" and used M3 grub screws in the battery cups.Next time I fire up the dye pot I'll do the strap in red to match the transmission case.

Looks great!
Where did you get the all-black cable for the Savox? I've got a Savox with some damage on the cable... still works after a re-soldered it, but would be nice to just replace it.

mk-Zero wrote: ↑Thu Jan 04, 2018 1:36 pm Looks great!
Where did you get the all-black cable for the Savox? I've got a Savox with some damage on the cable... still works after a re-soldered it, but would be nice to just replace it.

I got my black servo cable direct from TQ WIre. You can find it other online shops to but TQ is only a couple states away from me. https://tqwire.com/shop/rc-products/triple-black-22-gauge-soft-pvc-servo-extension-futaba-connector/

Thanks. So you have to solder it inside the servo... are the pads pretty accessible once you take it apart?

It can be a little tricky, patience required. Take a look at this before you start: http://www.mcpappyracing.com/savox.php I also highly recommend you center the servo before starting, i.e. no left or right trim on it, dead zero. That helps to make sure the gear come off and back on proper.

Do you guys have one of these?

There are cheaper ones but this is the one I have, it has a nice aluminum case.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/G-T-Power-3CH-ESC-Servo-Tester-CCPM-Consistency-Master-Checker-Tester-WT7n/401455716742?hash=item5d78a01986:g:Hj0AAOSwa0VaKMno

I had a couple of cheap servos that would not center, it was great to be able to test them before fitting them.

I just found this one for digital servos,

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HJ-Digital-Servo-Tester-ESC-Consistency-Tester-For-RC-Aircraft-Helicopter-Car/152704253813?epid=1174011898&hash=item238de1ff75:g:aYEAAOSwVaVZu0za

Cheers, Dave.

I have a really cheap one that works great. Super useful for builds.