RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I was looking on Pargu's ebay store and didn't see them listed, he may have sold out

He doesn't seem to answer much, I sent him emails tell him what I want and tell him I'll pay for them once they are done.

He seems to do it then.

Specifically ask for Tomahawk Wheels with Black centers and say your waiting to hear back I hope he answers.

TM Ru22311 wrote:I haven't seen the rims @ Pargu with the black centers, but that is what I really want. I have sent a few emails, but never got a response. If I drop $50 on something else, I will later wish I had just got the good ones.

Okay, thanks guys. I sent another message about purchasing some. I know they are expensive, but I have seen pics of them on a Tomahawk and they are just gorgeous! I am planning on trying to dye my upper servo deck today. I think it is fiberglass and may have to set in the dye much longer than plastic. Wish me luck

I need to dye a set of wheels and see how they come out, stripe a few wheels with some crappy worn out chrome and dye them black or another color.

It's a smelly job so I need to do it outside somehow.

RC

I do my dye inside, but I lay down drop clothes everywhere and use rubber gloves. I went to a local thrift shop and got a pot and strainer just for dying. I keep the dye/water under 200 degrees to keep from splattering (usually about 175 degrees). I got a meat thermometer rigged up for the dying to keep the temp consistent. The kids had a half day today so I didn't get to dye, but plan on doing it in the morning

My parts list has gotten significantly smaller:

Wheels (rims & tires) (SC-28/29) (SC-26/27)
Gear Base Cover (SC-36)
Decal kit (SC-71)
Switch Plate Set (SC-73)
8mm Shock Collar Set
Polyca Paint (PS28)

Got quite a few parts coming this week. I have to wait on the return screw kit to start reassembly.

And just think after you get this one done you'll get the bug and want another one.

Here u go, not bad for 20 bucks!

Tomahawk Radio Tray


http://www.ebay.com/itm/CW-101-Kyosho-Tomahawk-Scorpion-Radio-Tray-/171273663467?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27e0b4b3eb

Ah, there it is! I was looking for that on eBay this morning. If my dye doesn't work out, I will have to drop the $20 for that new one. Thanks

I was looking at your parts, I think the parts would come cleaner with just an SOS pad, That's all I use and they come very clean with warm water.

RC

I'll be starting my own restore project, I'll take one of my Tomahawks I haven't cleaned and start from there I know exactly which one I am going to do

Stay tuned....


RC

I initially started with SOS pads and the parts came out very clean. That is one of the best ways to clean aluminum. However, after I cleaned them I noticed some deep scratches and gouges in some of the pieces. I used wet sandpaper on those parts to get them back to new looking. I have been looking for a good way to restore plastic. Using wet sandpaper on plastic gets all the minor scuffs and scratches out, but then you have to somehow buff it all out. I always wondered why Kyosho would make these buggy's 99% aluminum and then throw a plastic rear guard on the back? Maybe it was for weight distribution or something but it is not very sturdy.

I think it came down to cost, the aluminum parts that are on there were made and somewhat straight, the cage at the end would have required some addition work that's why you don't see them made from aluminum that much. Pargu makes one but he's the only one I know, plus molded plastic is pretty easy once you have the mold. They made decisions for the era of the buggy, I don't like the cast aluminum but that's what they did. They didn't know that parts were going to break pretty easy but for the time it was acceptable.


RC

TM Ru22311 wrote:I initially started with SOS pads and the parts came out very clean. That is one of the best ways to clean aluminum. However, after I cleaned them I noticed some deep scratches and gouges in some of the pieces. I used wet sandpaper on those parts to get them back to new looking. I have been looking for a good way to restore plastic. Using wet sandpaper on plastic gets all the minor scuffs and scratches out, but then you have to somehow buff it all out. I always wondered why Kyosho would make these buggy's 99% aluminum and then throw a plastic rear guard on the back? Maybe it was for weight distribution or something but it is not very sturdy.

I am not a fan of the cast aluminum either, but I guess it is what it is. It seems very fragile and I was pretty uncomfortable removing the old bearings out of the gear casing. I have seen Pargu's aluminum rear cage and that would be a great upgrade for an already awesome buggy. Considering what an original packaged NIP rear cage costs on eBay, I would rather just pay the little extra and get Pargu's.

Check out this link for removing old bushing and things.

http://www.time-tunnel.jp/02/articles/rcondition/r_kyosho/tomahawk_custom03.html

I have some Permatex white lithium grease, would that be suitable for the differential gears in the gearbox? I would rather use something I already have here, but if it won't work I can buy something specially for that.