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mk-Zero wrote: Ready for a little diff lube and reassembly

Excellent pics. Check out the gears on my MIP. http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=36160.
My idler gear is nylon and the diff gear is deeper. Any thoughts?

Interesting. I wonder which is earlier vs later. Your diff gear also looks to be brass whereas mine is aluminum.

twinrider1 has the earlier transmission which used the Thorp SRB ball diff.

Phin wrote:twinrider1 has the earlier transmission which used the Thorp SRB ball diff.

Thanks Phin. Do you know approximately what years they were produced?

1982-83 for the original transmission meant for the Tamiya cars...85-ish for yours, with the Hot Trick motor plate. Then MIP came out with the black RC10 specific case that lasted for at least another year or two even after the Stealth got released. Black case came with gears like yours in brass, aluminum, delrin, and steel. In '90 or '91 the diff got upgraded to the "heavy duty" diff and an optional planetary gear diff was offered.

Thanks Phin. Much appreciated.

LOL. After reading this, I went searching for Thorp diff information and found this thread http://tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=43755&id=5475 on the Tamiya forum. In it is a link to a Thorp instruction sheet .pdf. Cool. http://www.geocities.com/prescotmes/ThorpSRBdiff.pdf. Click it, it's safe.

I like Yahoo's sense of humor.

Cool, thanks Phin, great info. I guess maybe my RC10 was probably made in 85 or maybe 86 then, give or take. I bought it used probably in about 87 or 88. The original battery strap I had was nylon, so I guess it wasn't a super early Edinger car. Wish I still had the original chassis...

Thanks again to Mike for the cool Hot Trick ESC mount, it goes perfectly with this car!
It's really cool actually, it picks up the lower two mounting holes of the rear shock tower. All I had to do was countersink the two upper mounting screws of the tower as their heads would interfere with the mount.



You can see in this picture that there is way more than enough space for my esc even with the rx on the tower. Plus it was hitting the 7th cell of the battery pack.


So I trimmed the shelf down. With it like this the 7 cell clears.
2

that car is looking trick...hot

That looks good on there!

I got the car to full roller status tonight. The original Kyosho shocks I had on the front were way too beat up and abused, so I decided to use a pair or rear gold shocks in their place. With a few limiters they were the perfect length to go with the Ti front tower.
There's still a few details I need to take care of on the roller... the rear shocks need a rebuild and I need to swap out all the blue FT screws for period-correct gold and black ones, I may also get rid of the rear aluminum shock collars since I don't have a matching pair for the front (and in reality, the rear two are not identical to each other anyway). I'm going to send the motor off to ultrahive to see if he can reproduce the Trinity Joel Johnson 1987 World Champion label.
For the body, I was going to take the lazy route and leave it unpainted and just apply the decals so the details of the car would show through it (it's gonna be a shelf queen), but now I'm debating painting it... decisions decisions

Last night I cleaned up the electronics. I made the wiring on the ESC a lot neater, it was a bit of a cludge before.


After finishing that I mounted all the electronics, except the motor that I'm sending off to ultraHIVE to make a new sticker for






Tonight I painted the body. The original body I had for the car was black with red pinstripes, so I wanted to stick with a similar color combo, as well as something that went with the other components on the car. So I decided to go with silver (light black ) and two red stripes. I'm pretty happy with how it came out






I added a few stickers from a classic kit


And finally, with my recently painted b44

Looks great!

gomachv wrote:Looks great!

Thanks Jeff! I put some of the parts you sent me to good use

Very nice save
Now make it look like an RC10 and not an SRB and dial out that positive Camber in the rear