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They are just for looks at the moment, I still have to find what springs will work Testing time almost lol, We dont have a track local so i will have to wing it.

Here is a setup from Freddy (tecnica2001) that I am running.


Front -- 35wt w/ #2 piston -- Green Springs
Rear -- 30wt w/ #1 piston -- Green Springs


Handles very well. Just make sure you can turn the wheels without binding during compression. I needed to grind the front arms down after changing the castor block to a B4 30 degree.


ED

soniccj5 wrote:Here is a setup from Freddy (tecnica2001) that I am running.


Front -- 35wt w/ #2 piston -- Green Springs
Rear -- 30wt w/ #1 piston -- Green Springs


Handles very well. Just make sure you can turn the wheels without binding during compression. I needed to grind the front arms down after changing the castor block to a B4 30 degree.


ED

Thanks Sonicc,

Can you get a weight of your car loaded? Im wondering how my car is compared to other Old/New racers lol, Mine feels like a tank lol

Mine also feels like a tank, but they can sure move . I will try and weigh it next time I hit the track, but that might not be for a couple weeks.

When I first started going to my local track there was someone there with a SC10. At the time, I had no idea what an SC10 was and I thought it was a tank, until I flipped it over. The thing felt lighter than my buggy and it looked twice as big.

Thanks,

Ill have to try that setup first and see how it does, well after i find a place to run it lol

adam lancia wrote:Standard buggy/truck rear green springs and light green truck fronts. I *think* the light green fronts were replaced with a normal looking dark green powder coat eventually, I can't remember the light green springs being a different rate than the later, darker ones. Charlie...? Temple...? Li'l help...?

Yep, the bright green front's were T2 and stiffer by far ( blue current rate ) than the standard AE green truck front's

Very cool project!

Charlie don't surf wrote:

adam lancia wrote:Standard buggy/truck rear green springs and light green truck fronts. I *think* the light green fronts were replaced with a normal looking dark green powder coat eventually, I can't remember the light green springs being a different rate than the later, darker ones. Charlie...? Temple...? Li'l help...?

Yep, the bright green front's were T2 and stiffer by far ( blue current rate ) than the standard AE green truck front's

Ah ha! I didn't realize that they are that much stiffer, cool. I'm glad I've kept mine. If I ever run a newer truck that's what I'm running up front just to mess with everybody

nvxwax wrote:I have a Venom 35C 7.4V 3800mAh 2S Hardcase LiPo and it fits pretty good, That is the highest mAh i could find that would fit under the top brace.

Dimensions: 23.3 x 46.75 x 137.85mm (0.92" x 1.84" x 5.43")

The battery is not pushed into the rear bulkhead, It will go in a little but its tight with the top brace on.

Actually - if you leave the battery in the forward position it really helps the car rotate alot better with the lighter Li-Po's on board.

I have done alot of vintage running - and have found in my Losi's and also my test RC10 that moving the batts as far forward as I can creates a much nicer handling car. Give it a try - you wont be dissapointed.

Cheers

Darryn

Great looking rides sir!!!! I'm building an old is new myself and need to know what size bearings you use for the RPM hubs, I have the B44 CVA's, thanks for posting the builds!!!

Ok so i have run my car in the front yard a bit and was wondering how you guys set the diff in the stealth trans? i have a lot of rc10's but have never really ran one I dont want to melt the diff having it set wrong, i am running a 17.5 brushless setup, nothing special.

The car seemed to run fine and sound good but i did hear a squeel at one point, but it was only for a split second and went away, i wonder if the diff rings are slipping? I can get some video tomorrow if that would help.

William you have created an absolutely gorgeous pair of 10's right there. This is what I love about this site. People get inspired and the bar gets lifted all the time.

Damn awesome!!!!

i always set the diff like cliff lett wrote in some old article, tighten the bolt down until the ears of the nut are all the way to the end of the outdrive slots. then i break'em in with a dremel, just a little bit. the single most importan part of the diff IMHO is the thrust bearing, use the best thrust bearing possible with black grease and clean it more then you'd think to. really helps keep the whole thing smooth and non gritty.

Thanks,

Ill see if i can find the article you are referring to