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the chassis is really too thin for the #8 hardware that is normally used. The forgiving nylon will usually displace when you tighten them down, so you don't realize it.

any metal pieces that won't deform need to have special countersunk holes OR, special undercut head screws. Not something that is a normal situation, so those that have never see it wouldn't realize this is a special case. The chassis is basically sheetmetal, which has it's own set of rules.

the centerline spacing of the screws however is an outright problem, either missed dimension, or wrong programming for the cnc, as is the wrong hinge pin ID.

Sounds like the prototypes need some revisions.

jwscab wrote:the chassis is really too thin for the #8 hardware that is normally used. The forgiving nylon will usually displace when you tighten them down, so you don't realize it.

any metal pieces that won't deform need to have special countersunk holes OR, special undercut head screws. Not something that is a normal situation, so those that have never see it wouldn't realize this is a special case. The chassis is basically sheetmetal, which has it's own set of rules.

the centerline spacing of the screws however is an outright problem, either missed dimension, or wrong programming for the cnc, as is the wrong hinge pin ID.

Sounds like the prototypes need some revisions.

My point exactly, couldn't have said it better my self

-Morten

As for what is going to break first, to me ideal would be to have bulletbroof hubs and mounts and let the arms be the expendable parts. JMO

Nick

From personal experience, arm mounts (front and rear) always failed first on my RC10s. I think I preferred it that way back in the day, as they were the cheapest parts ($2 per set or so) and easy to replace. Today, I'd prefer that none of it fail , but if I had to choose, I'd also prefer the arms as they seem to be the most plentiful used, NIP, etc.

I definitely don't want the chassis to fail, but with aluminum arm mounts, I really think that's a good possibility. Heck, I wouldn't even want to use delrin mounts, as delrin is quite a bit stronger than nylon 6/6.

you'll probably find that you will start snapping the heads off the screws before any real other damage is done, as long as you use the aluminum ones.

Possibly, but in my experience, the chassis has been the weaker point point. For example, I bought a cheap 10T a couple of years ago that had the right side chassis holes almost sheared out, and that was with stock mounts. The aluminum screws were, as expected, not reusable, but were intact.

interesting. I would have guessed the screws would have sheared before the chassis, but that's a great reference point.

I was surprised by it, but I have a couple of other buggy chassis with deformation at the holes (elongated toward the outside) so I don't think it's a fluke. It would be interesting to model the assembly and do some FEA. I don't have the time, though .

I fixed the ID wobble
I drilled the mount to 6mm and press fitted 3x6x8mm nylon bushings made from 6mm lubrication tube
and then I re-drilled the bushings to 3,2mm




Counter sunk


Morten

Looks good Morten...now if they only came that way for the money

ROH73 wrote: couple of other buggy chassis with deformation at the holes (elongated toward the outside).

I've had several like this and made several like it myself. If I don't tighten the rear arm mounts every time I run a pack thru or a tank thru they loosen up and start wobbling around in the holes elongating them. I fixed this on my gts to where it would never happen again by installing a steel insert with a washertype thing on the back with prongs(Yeah the name is escaping me right now) like a drywall anchor would have and then loctite the threads and they never loosen up or wear out the chassis. I have yet to do it on any runners since I haven't been 'tinkerin' like I used to.

Todd

Thanks Todd, one does what one can
And I'm not done tinkering ..not by a long shot

I know what your talking about with the thread insert
I have nuts on top of the mount on my Hybrid 10T to prevent them from loosening


Morten

Hate to bring back an old thread, but... Does anyone still make these, or mounts made of anything. My one has developed a crack (at no fault of my own of course), and may break soon and explode (cause that's what happens when they break right?) Anyway, any help is much appreciated.

daniels9424cs wrote:Hate to bring back an old thread, but... Does anyone still make these, or mounts made of anything. My one has developed a crack (at no fault of my own of course), and may break soon and explode (cause that's what happens when they break right?) Anyway, any help is much appreciated.

best bet is spend about $20 on the stock plastic $2 part and put the car on the shelf till someone makes rear arm mounts.. someone on this site/ebay made them in gold years ago that were good {i hear}.. then some company made some that needed to be modded to fit,junk in my book ..

Surely there are enough people on here willing to purchase a pair of alloy mounts to make producing a batch financially viable?
Put my name on the list anyway

There is a Co called pargue or something
Like that that all ready makes them kinda pricey
But they are alloy
They also make rims and the make a 1/4 by 12 mm
Hex adapter also
Thx farmer