RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

these'll go in between the rim and the axle spacer. 1/8" per side.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNTA0&P=SM

you'll probably want to get some low profile nuts, too.

Oh sweet! I've seen that picture but never realized what I was looking at. Thanks!

Pics of my completed one:



So smooth to drive, way different than my B3. Thanks to this forum and all the help. Build thread is here: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=21293

Still some sweet builds coming together on here!
My parts list is almost complete but i have a couple of questions.
Are people generally using truck front shocks and buggy rears?
Also can i get the protech body to sit low using the rear worlds tower or do i need to use the 10t mount?

Thanks

I am running the RPM world's front end but am using the stock short front shocks and shock tower. I trimmed it to fit. I drilled a new hole in the nose piece for the front body mount too. The body still fits as original. The front of the car actually looks fairly stock at first glance.

These are all amazing builds - but I have a few questions:

1. Where do you get the battery posts (newer ones)?
2. Are there any advantages to the newer shock towers and long shocks in the front?
3. Where can you get the rear CVD's / hubs and front blocks etc?
4. What spur / pinion gears is everyone using?

RC104ever wrote:These are all amazing builds - but I have a few questions:

1. Where do you get the battery posts (newer ones)?
2. Are there any advantages to the newer shock towers and long shocks in the front?
3. Where can you get the rear CVD's / hubs and front blocks etc?
4. What spur / pinion gears is everyone using?

New battery posts can be from any car honestly. I used FT B4 Blue posts.
The advantage to the newer shock towers for longer shocks is that you can use modern shocks instead of scrounging for the older shorter throw shocks
depending on what you are doing for the rear of the RC10, you can use B44 CVDS if you are using the Klein rear arms. However, there are still MIP RC10 CVDs available at some stores on line.
For the spur gear, if I am using the B4 top shaft/slipper set up, I use the 79 or 81, and tend to go low with the pinion.

if you want the battery cup, it's still available at tower hobbies, bunch of other places.

the triangular battery strap, you can find on ebay, or I believe possibly fibrelyte in the UK makes a carbon one.

the longer front shocks are used because the front end of these cars is basically a 'truck' front end, so the shock tower was designed to use the longer shocks. You can make your own or modify the truck towers to mount any size shock you wish, but it might look funny just modifying the truck tower.

cvd's for original rc10 with 1/4" axles are available at tower hobbies. cvd's with 3/16" axles are tougher to find now, but you can use the b4 or b44 ones with the right hubs(also converts to a B4 wheel at the same time). OR, buy the 1/4" axle version and swap a set of 3/16" axles on.

gear ratio depends on the motor you are using and the track/surface you are running on, though these guys might be able to throw out some numbers to try.

Will the T2 or T3 front shock tower work with the 10T nose?

askbob wrote:Will the T2 or T3 front shock tower work with the 10T nose?

T2 yes T3 no. The T2 has the same front end as the T10 . The shock towers are differant but will work .

I tried a different front end setup since I had lots of parts lying around. I used the B4 steering blocks and hubs with the Losi JRX-Pro SE front arms. With some modification to the RC10T front bulkhead these arms can be made to bolt on. Using standard axles with B4 front rims, the total front end width is 1/16" narrower that max legal ROAR width. Close enough. There is an issue with it though if you want to run the longer shocks on the front like the RPM world's conversions. The shock mounts on the arms are a little bit closer in which means you may interfere with the nose brace tubes. I modified the original team car tower to fit so I could use the short stock shocks. They are also farther forward on the arm so you need to space the top of the shocks outwards a bit to line them up. The Pro-SE arms have the same offset as the RPM world's arms. They are just slightly longer. Overall it's a pretty neat looking conversion that is comparable in performance to the world's conversion. I have actually removed it because I am restoring the car to the original team car suspension so this one will ultimately get thrown in the tool box. I don't have a picture right now but I'll try to get one soon.

More questions!

Is there anywhere to procure the rear bulkhead in black? I tried searching Tower, no luck. If it isn't available new, what other options are there that will work?

Along the same lines, since many of you have used newer shock towers, what size shocks did you use front and rear? ie 1.32 or whatever

Thanks!

The very late RC10CE kits had black rear bulkheads but they are pretty rare to find. They exist though. Most people just dye theirs. I dyed mine and it looks fine. The key is to keep it in the dye for a long time and to make sure the water/dye mixture is very hot.

I noticed in some of you guys setup listing, that some stated having the b4 complete slipper? What parts are you running because I bout the plates,shaft,pads...And the top shaft will not work? How did you fit the b4 parts for your rc10's?

you also must use the B4 top shaft, complete set up from end to end.