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i'm not sure...it wasn't an issue for me since this didn't have to meet any race specs. I seem to remember reading somewhere that it did change the wheel base though.

I see you are having fun with your own brushess/lipo setup!

I'm running a 3500KV motor-- I can't imagine it with a 5700kv!

Your video made me giddy.

Is your Truggy the same wheelbase as a RC10?

Is the RC10T front suspension mount required to run the RC10T arms? I'm thinking of widening the front end of the Fun Buggy & think that will be an easy/cheap way to go... if I can use the RC10T arms with the RC10 mounts.

I had mine out in the snow again yesterday with the Sand Paw paddle tires, this time with a fully charged Lipo. It was crazy to flip it over backwards, multiple times, in the white stuff!

Jeep-Power wrote:Is the RC10T front suspension mount required to run the RC10T arms? I'm thinking of widening the front end of the Fun Buggy & think that will be an easy/cheap way to go... if I can use the RC10T arms with the RC10 mounts.

I got just the thing for you
http://cgi.ebay.ca/Alloy-Front-Bulk-Head-Fit-Associated-RC10GT-RC10-GT-Pro_W0QQitemZ190316265328QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRadio_Control_Vehicles?hash=item2c4fbbbf70#ht_2000wt_939


These are RC10 GT front arm mounts...I think they are the same width as the RC10T mounts but are separated

BUT, I just measured both the inner spacing for the RC10 & 10T arms and the 10T arms are less then a cm wider, nothing a washer cant fix. The 10T mount is narrower, but the brace fits in there with it, which total is a cm wider than the RC10 mount

Anyway, there are options for ya, I would get the RC10 GT mounts for a little something different

I used a RC10 TQ chassis with RPM 10T arms, which gives the wheels base about 2cm longer than the normal RC10.

I have some large fishing weights in the front on mine and it still flips over...i haven't tried it in the snow yet, but it's not too much over kill in loose sand.

Vintage-- a CM wider, or a MM wider?

What is the length of the arms, please-- from mounting pin to knuckle pin, please?

I have some T3 arms in the parts bin...

sorry, a mm

they are the same length as normal 10T arms, I'm not sure of the length tonight, but can get it to you tomorrow. When you said wheel base I was thinking front to rear.

I'm not familiar with T3 arms

wheelbase - yeah-- front to rear. I was wondering how much longer the 10T is & also how much wider-- it seems the longer arms suck up the bumps a whole lot better!

Yeah, I'm not up on all the parts either-- A buddy gave me an entire T3 Roller & some parts. It would be soo easy to throw the brushless system in there, but I can't bring myself to do it-- I'm diggin' the build-ability of the vintage stuff!

the length of the arms are 78.5mm

sweet-- thanks!

The t3 front arms are 90mm center to center of the pins. The RC-10 outer blocks fit perfectly in them, the inners will need a little shaving (again, about 1mm) to fit in the t3 arm.

finally, I got to the beach and got some rooster tail shots and a really really short video .
That's what I get for not taking my tools. The set screw for the pinion gear came loose and I was sent packing
[youtube]cBZHCbX7HqM[/youtube]

I got to looking under the gear cover, and it wasn't the pinion gear that was loose. I'm not sure how many things happened to this spur gear, but it's warped, worn unevenly and looks like the thing lost a few screw placements

just one more win for the mamba max 5700 the war must go on though my tools wouldn't have saved me this time, but my extra spur gear would...looks like I need to get more of them.

wow-- nice carnage!

I was wondering -- the gears sounded a little noisy when you power slid to the camera and then back out...

I love how it just wheelies all the time-- I forget are you running 2 or 3 cell?

yeah, I kinda had a feeling too. I'm only running a 2 cell

Vintage-
I'm trying to figure out what you have here--



My first question: is this a standard RC10 graphite chassis?

#2: Did you actually narrow the front section? It looks like you cut the sides in (I'm thinking of doing just that, but am going to have a hard time cutting up this CFG chassis! )

YUP

I cut the front end of a composite TQ chassis to accommodate the 10T front bulkhead

I also had to trim up a rare A&L tall front shock tower. That's the genius thing about this build, I left it all on the table and didn't hold back on modifying anything.

It's good to measure a few times to get it square. My extra hole speaks for it'self.

vintage AE wrote: My extra hole speaks for it'self.

I was wondering...

Wow-- love it -- that's commitment! Well, it certainly makes me a bit more willing to modify mine. . The saving grace is that the nose on mine is pretty hammered-- looks like someone enjoyed ramming it into walls, without a bumper.

I'm thinking of using the longer B3 arms which will require moving the inner mounts even closer together-- I'm thinking some sort of custom-made mount. I have some nice chunks of aluminum and nylon on hand.

Forgive my ignorance-- the TQ chassis-- that gives the same wheelbase as a gold-pan? I'm trying to get an idea of what the wheelbase is on your rig-- it looks great!