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I just noticed there is no "GAME OVER" decals for the wing on the decal sheet. I'll have to have the wife write it for me.

Where can I get the white circles with the number 1 with TA written in the number?
Lynn

67CamaroSS wrote:I think I was one of the last orders from Tower last week cause after I bought mine, the status on their site changed to "late April". i got mine yesterday and it was perfect with no issues.

When I bought mine on Thursday last week it said "IN STOCK".. Then about 2 hours later it said "IN STOCK Limited Quantities".. Got my tracking on Friday morning and then it said on their site "Early April" as I thought about buying another.. Got mine yesterday.. Looking to build it next week sometime..

Shawn

well here is mine. i didnt buy the complete kit just got the chassis,nose and nose tubs. since i have so many extra parts i used them instead to keep it on the cheap. still waiting on some backorder parts from tower to finish it up. also have a painted ss body coming i ordered

Anyone else having build issues specially on the Tranny part, some says it needs some extra care to have it running smoothly? and also some missing parts are experienced on RCtech? how true?.....

So excited yesterday when it arrived. Immediately opened it. All seals intact, but...shock oil everywhere!!
A lot pooled up in the end of box where it has soaked up into the box. Spent this evening wiping all the bags, chassis and body with Dawn to remove the oil. I'm not very happy. The body is likely unpaintable. All parts accounted for.

I'm assuming the 7-year old child named "Wang" who packaged it during his lunch break stabbed the shock bag with his chopstick while fishing for a errant eggroll. Carelessly no doubt.

Yes to the trans issue!!i must have put together 30 or more stealth trans and result them but never had any issues like this China one! I spent atleast 2 hours hand fitting the topshaft to the idler gear. I was not happy at all about it. I almost put a rpm trans or a black stealth case new built trans in.but since its going on the shelf for now its fine. I really didn't like the changes to the worlds stealth and why are there 2 versions of them?one is the China worlds and the other is the usa stealth we know and works fine. And with as much fitting it took i can't see it holding up to much abuse. If and when i run it I will put a 2.65 rpm in it. I also wish they would have remade the worlds bulkhead instead of telling you to cut the ears off..... until i built the trans i was otherwise happy with how the rest of the car fit together oh except for the antenna screw washer deal??? How did they screw up the counter sunk holes? I am still happy i have it but after building it so far i almost wonder how a few things slipped thru like that. I still have the shocks to build and tires to install but living forward to having it done.can anyone tell me who can paint my body and wing like the box? Todd the box art guy had surgery and has a 6 to 9 month rehab. And its been asked but no one has answered where can we find the number 1 sticker?

chophead69 wrote: And its been asked but no one has answered where can we find the number 1 sticker?

Gentleman member Rob Kuijper made some number one's in the past. You can also find them on the T3 decal sheet! Use an Olfa circle cutter to make the white meat balls with vinyl sticker paper ! "Game Over" is easy with a Sharpie, If you make a mistake just wipe off with alcohol before drying and try again!

chophead69 wrote:Yes to the trans issue!!i must have put together 30 or more stealth trans and result them but never had any issues like this China one! I spent atleast 2 hours hand fitting the topshaft to the idler gear. I was not happy at all about it. I almost put a rpm trans or a black stealth case new built trans in.but since its going on the shelf for now its fine. I really didn't like the changes to the worlds stealth and why are there 2 versions of them?one is the China worlds and the other is the usa stealth we know and works fine. And with as much fitting it took i can't see it holding up to much abuse. If and when i run it I will put a 2.65 rpm in it. I also wish they would have remade the worlds bulkhead instead of telling you to cut the ears off..... until i built the trans i was otherwise happy with how the rest of the car fit together oh except for the antenna screw washer deal??? How did they screw up the counter sunk holes? I am still happy i have it but after building it so far i almost wonder how a few things slipped thru like that. I still have the shocks to build and tires to install but living forward to having it done.can anyone tell me who can paint my body and wing like the box? Todd the box art guy had surgery and has a 6 to 9 month rehab. And its been asked but no one has answered where can we find the number 1 sticker?

1) Yes, we have gotten reports of transmissions being tight. Unfortunately, when we received production samples the gear cases allowed perfect gear mesh and as Murphy's law would have it actual production kits seem to have some transmission cases that were tighter than we had seen before. However, within a run or two the transmission will be significantly better and spin very free. The instructions should also state to use the diff grease on the gears and this additionally helps to ensure the gears spin free.

2) For whatever reason there seems to be a couple reports of topshafts that had the flats machined too deep causing the slipper plate to bottom out on the motor plate. However, this is the same topshaft from the B4 so this is a really odd issue.

3) I have already explained the reason for the two transmission cases, but I'll summarize my reply. The old transmission kit was released so that people can order the old transmission or spare cases and allow a stealth transmission kit to be available sooner. The kit transmission was tooled up to be included in the kit for logistic reasons and to allow the opportunity to improve the transmission. The new case has ribs and pockets to improve the shrink of the part and insure that it is flat and if you compare this to the old US case you will see how much flatter it is, and the spacer and cap were molded in for simplicity. The transmission holds up just fine to mod motors, no need to worry!

4) The bulkhead from the RC10 classic was designed with the RC10WC in mind, so that we wouldn't need to re-tool another bulkhead that is 95% the same. Molds aren't cheap, and this helps consolidate inventory and in the end help reduce the cost of the kit for the customer with almost no real drawback aside from a little work to achieve an authentic 'look'. Otherwise there is NO performance difference.

5) The antenna mount washer has nothing to do with the chassis countersinks being different from the original. The countersink on the original chassis ends up increase the hole ID through the chassis because the chassis is not thicker than the height of the required countersink for a 4-40 screw, therefore the FHCS cone will actually pass through the chassis and cause it to bottom out onto the antenna mount first before it tightens up. Thus, the washer was required to ensure the screw does not bottom out and instead have it tighten down. The original antenna mount was a little softer plastic so the screw would just deform the mount when tightened. If you do not like the washer you can also chamfer the hole for the screw.

Hope that might help answer some questions, it's always frustrating to see issues that simply should exist!

I am pretty sure the top shaft thing has been happening on and off for a while before the worlds,some have needed the top shaft spacer and the hole in the case opened up slightly for the spacer... Thanks for the heads up guys still deciding whether to build mine when I end up getting it.

Just finished building mine, minus the socks and electrics. The tranny is tight, but it feels like it should free up after a bit. I did have one of the screws that hold the rear arm mounts snap at the head, but it just looks like that particular screw had issues while being machined or cast. All in all, pretty good. Can't wait to run it although it was 70° and sunny yesterday but I woke up to 6 inches of snow today. Got to love Colorado!

Since when should you use diff grease on the gears in stealth, i always read they should be dry? i didn't see that in the manual,

I believe the gears should be dry. The only grease should be in the differential gear where the diff balls are.

If anything, I think adding the diff lube would create excess drag. On my old stealths, I use a little 25 wt shock oil but that's to keep things quiet.

Tamiya ceramic grease or dry for me. Usually dry

I agree on the gears not being greased. My case required filing the gears of both the topshaft and idler.then finding the high (tight) spot and fililng so more .it was so tght I could barely turn it. I must have had it apart 50 times. Its better but I am still not happy wth it. I only stated what I found with mine and I am still happy hut the trans does upset me. Also I have the same issue with the stiff steering bell cranks.I will try bearings to see if that helps.