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One neat thing would be nylon front arms - MRP made some black plastic arms in the past.

If the demand was high enough (+50 sets) it shouldn´t be a problem to lure a machinist (Perhaps CNCrc) into making the parts.
If I remember correctly, the MRP arms are "unisex" So left can go to right and vice versa.

The rear arms would be a bit more difficult, but in my opinion not really necessary.

I had a replica made of this "Dirt Burners" monoshock unit: I have test fitted it on my rere Scorpion (using bits and pieces of hardware I had at hand. Proper spacers, nuts and bolts are on their way from China), and it fits perfectly. It does interfere with the radio tub, so the tub will have to be modified to be used on a Scorp. I'm not sure if it will interfere with the cage on the body..... I'm quite sure it will interfere with the Beetle and Tomahawk bodies, so mods will be needed to fit it on any of the cars.

DennisM wrote:If the demand was high enough (+50 sets) it shouldn´t be a problem to lure a machinist (Perhaps CNCrc) into making the parts.
If I remember correctly, the MRP arms are "unisex" So left can go to right and vice versa.

I'm in!

what is the reason for plastic arms?

1) lightweight
b) flexible
3) just cool to be old school

Actually, what's the reason for the rear mono shock?

*science*

lmao


They tried everything Bitd. A monoshock lets the weight transfer freely keeping both tires somewhat happy...but it really doesn't....but it was cool to think it worked. I dig monoshocks, but mainly on the front. Not as much of a fan of the rear mono

attme, what spray can color are you using to match the red tub?

I've never liked mono-shock setups because they'll never match the independence of motion that 2 separate shocks will have, as both control arms are connected to the same shock. Unless things are dialed in perfectly, what happens to one side of the suspension can affect how the opposite side functions. I realize there are some mono-shock setups that might perform satisfactorily, but I can't understand why you'd downgrade a full independent suspension to a shared-shock suspension...

With a mono the intention is for one side to effect the other. It's done on purpose. You have a teeter totter effect. The race prep radiant that I can't find the pic of with the pivoting front tower and dual shocks basically emulates a monoshock with dual upright shocks

See-sawing suspension is just a bad idea for offroad. You don't want to reduce the effectiveness of one side by increasing the stiffness of the shock, when the other side has the suspension compressed. I guess one benefit is weight savings, but with an alloy framework like the Dirt Burners assembly above, you might actually be increasing weight. I guess there's a reason why independent suspension is all you really see in the top competitive offroad vehicles, RC or real life.

Yes, there's a coolness factor to it, I'll agree to that!

It's not for every track or every situation, but try to convince Mr Dunn it didn't work on the Radiant

Stolen from another thread

JHarris wrote:After posting the pictures of Mike's
Pro Radiant from the 1989 worlds he and I had a conversation about the observations all of you made and some of the other modifications. Mike's car was equipped with a modified front shock tower that increased the suspension function. Here's his explanation of what he did and it's function. This is a cut/paste from 2 different emails so if it seems a little broken, that's the reason.

Kinda surprised nobody noticed the pivoting front tower on my Pro Radiant. They spotted everything else. The front tower was nicked named the "flippity flop" (not by me). I also used one on my Kyosho Laser. It had limit stops on it. The RCCA article should show pics of that.

I did have a special slipper clutch on the car. Not sure where it went.

We drilled an additional3mm hole between the two original mounting holes of the tower and bulkhead. It pivoted off this hole. We shaped the bottom of the tower like a slight "V" to allow it to pivot and this surface acted like limit stops.

The trick to any 4 wd drive car is to never loose front drive while cornering. So if the inside tire lifts from the ground then you have just a 2wd car at that point. This is why the mono shock worked so well. Problem with the mono shock is you had the dampening and spring of only one shock for both wheels. Our system was the best of both worlds. We used a small sway bar to keep it centered and keep it from waundering.

Isn't it enough that it's cool, it's old school, and that it's something special that you don't see every day on a scorp?
I could always buy a RB6 or something other new, if performance was the goal.

And speaking of pivoting shock setups, here's the "Rocking Shock" for Tamiyas in the early 80's:

I've thought about using a mono-shock on the back of Scorpions and a Houge car to work like the camber compensator and z-bars used on the back of the Corvairs, VWs and Porshes with semi-trailing arm suspension. Later Scorps and the Houge chassis had hard stops to limit the down travel on the arms.

TomEG,

It always warms a kyosho heart to see 12mm od/ 10mm bore red shocks on a Scorpion, vertical or horizontal

Is it possible to post a picture, taken from the front and backwards?