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dO THE ARMS FIRST, you know what, it is much easier for a bit to go 'true' if the hole is deep, so the knuckles should be fine

Just spent The Day Building My New Scorpion Here Are Some Almost Finished Shots With My Turbo Scorpion.

Ron,

I went ahead and purchased some teflon tubing. I was able to find the correct sizes for the job (took a while). The company is called fluorostore (sp) and they sell tubing by the foot and have a very extensive catalog.

I went with: 3mmID x 4mmOD for the rear suspension arms, 4mmIDx5mmOD for the fronts knuckles and suspension arms, and 5mmIDx6mmOD for the front suspension arms to the front axle. I was specially looking for a tube with the relatively small wall thickness so i would not sacrifice too much structural integrity of the aluminum bits. I have also purchased the three drill bits.

My next question to you is how easy can the front axle bend? I went through the front end last night and still could not figure out why the wheels bow in with excessive cambs, i have tried all possible configurations and still can't figure it out. the front axle is set to the factory setting. Could my front axle be bent upward from excessive landings? I will be purchasing parts to rebuild the whole front end shortly.

My best guess would be the cast aluminum arms.
It´s possible to bend the shaft but it should be hardend steel.

Dismantle the front end and lay the shaft on a flat surface. It should have full contact regardless of what´s up and down.

Next is to draw an outline and flip the shaft.

Finally it could just be a quick fix - loosen the entire front - align it on a flat surface and tightend it again.

DennisM wrote:My best guess would be the cast aluminum arms.
It´s possible to bend the shaft but it should be hardend steel.

Dismantle the front end and lay the shaft on a flat surface. It should have full contact regardless of what´s up and down.

Next is to draw an outline and flip the shaft.

Finally it could just be a quick fix - loosen the entire front - align it on a flat surface and tightend it again.

Dennis,

Thanks for the tips, I will try this when I get the chance. I figured the axle would be extremely difficult to bent, which leads me to believe either the elbow joints or arms are damaged. I will report with an update.

Hi guys, I owned an original Scorpion back in the day as my first buggy so this re release holds some nostalgic value for me. I pulled the pin and ordered one a few weeks ago and have finished the build although my choice of motor and high speed steering servo haven't turned up I fitted an old motor and a std Futaba servo for now to have a run. It is a very nice looking buggy I must say and I enjoy the way it drives also, a lot of fun. I went the box art look this time, nothing special but I do like that look. I was reading RCHs post about excessive slop in the front and do remember my original having some slop develop in time in this area. This buggy has a little slop also but to me its not excessive or an issue at this point. I think greasing the area may have prematurely worn the joints as it will form a grinding paste as Coelacanth
suggested. If you want to use any form of lubricant trying a dry one like graphite powder would be the go. A thought I had to use Devcon liquid steel to build up a sloppy part then re drill may work also. I've used Devcon on clutch shafts to build them up after they are worn down then machine back to size and it lasts longer than the original shaft I found. I did a little video up of the first quick spin on the track. I've since found you can push this thing a lot harder, it is quite surprising how quick it is.
http://youtu.be/eUmX32f7ng0

attme wrote:Just spent The Day Building My New Scorpion Here Are Some Almost Finished Shots With My Turbo Scorpion.

Nice, I always wanted a Turbo Scorpion back in the day, enjoy.

Did some work on the Kyosho Scorpion ,Changed the Main Tub Had a Red one come in the mail to day. finished the paint to just need to add some sponsors and logo's !!!!!

radiocontrolhead wrote: My next question to you is how easy can the front axle bend? I went through the front end last night and still could not figure out why the wheels bow in with excessive cambs, i have tried all possible configurations and still can't figure it out. the front axle is set to the factory setting. Could my front axle be bent upward from excessive landings? I will be purchasing parts to rebuild the whole front end shortly.

Loosen the clamps holding the front shaft in place on the chassis rails and rotate it, it's how the camber is adjusted. Then reset the caster.
If the camber is different between both sides then something is bent.

The shaft is set to the largest mark on the shaft (I believe factory setting) should that equate to a zero camber setting?

Well I can say that the Japanese designed the scorp really well, the angled front and rear shafts are engineered to give you that freedom to camber the tires and to create that -ve camber during upward suspension travel, so yeah by adjusting the angle of the front shaft, you can dramtically improve the camber, also the top linakage arm length and caster lock position relative to the axis of rotation change camber and toe-in/out positions for the front tires, really cool.

radiocontrolhead - for the rear trailing arms, I would strongly recommend brass bushings - 5 0r 6mm long by 4mm OD and 3mm ID, these are used with Tamiya shocks, top and bottom ends, the thing is, since the rears pivot points are not wide enough and the flexible plastic tube might slip out, try it though.

I was very reluctant to enlarge the rear trailers to 4mm diameter, cause I know that it will 100% break in a hard crash. But I will not be bashing my beetle, so no biggy. bUT IF YOU CAN FIND SAY, 3.5 MM sleeve, made from brass, get it. or better, get the Tamiya one, and lathe it down to 3.5mm, leaving a 0.25mm flange at the end, shoot, I should have done that

Yes, open up the front shaft, put it on a flat surface, if it lays flat on both sides, its good, if not than you need to twist or bend it, mine was twisted a bit, I held it in a vise, used a grip jaw piles and twisted it back in place, took a while. YES IT IS HARDNED!!

attme wrote:Did some work on the Kyosho Scorpion ,Changed the Main Tub Had a Red one come in the mail to day. finished the paint to just need to add some sponsors and logo's !!!!!

Nice Job!
That red paint is dead on, what brand-color is it?

radiocontrolhead wrote:The shaft is set to the largest mark on the shaft (I believe factory setting) should that equate to a zero camber setting?

Don't know about the re-release but on the original you set the shaft so the bent ends were parallel to the chassis rails. The higher the ends are the more camber you will have. The kit setting is nowhere near zero camber as you don't want zero camber at all. To lower the camber turn the shaft so the ends are pointing forwards.

terry.sc wrote:

radiocontrolhead wrote:The shaft is set to the largest mark on the shaft (I believe factory setting) should that equate to a zero camber setting?

Don't know about the re-release but on the original you set the shaft so the bent ends were parallel to the chassis rails. The higher the ends are the more camber you will have. The kit setting is nowhere near zero camber as you don't want zero camber at all. To lower the camber turn the shaft so the ends are pointing forwards.

Lars, Thanks for the information. I will verify where it is set at using this method. Aside from the camber setting i think the knuckles and all other connecting parts within the suspension arms have developed excessive wear from crashes, landings, and just bashing which add to even more camber from when the buggy is lifted and set on the ground. I am looking forward to sleeving these parts in hopes of getting rid of all the excessive slop.

I think at this point i am just concerned about the amount of slop that has developed. It makes it almost discouraging to keep on the track without knowing a solution/repair to it.