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Very nice – that’s looking awesome!!! So glad you got it all sorted out.

Man, ya think those rear hubs have enough link mount choices? Looks like you have a good bit of clearance, even with a lot of negative camber.

Thanks for the reminder on the wheels spacers. I may use those to get back the width I lost by using the B44 CVAs.

Oh, and nice wheels, BTW…

aeiou wrote:Man, ya think those rear hubs have enough link mount choices?

those losi hubs are the greatest invention on the planet.

i have a set of b44 cvd's on the way. they'll give a little bit more breathing room. plus i'm pretty sure i'll need to use those instead of the b4 cvd's if i'd want to use 1.5 or 0 degree arm mounts. that's just a guess, though. i haven't tried it yet.

this car is coming together WAY too slow. i need to pick up the pace.

aeiou wrote:Thanks for the reminder on the wheels spacers. I may use those to get back the width I lost by using the B44 CVA's.

Dynotech's site isn't working for me right now, but chad has a wheel spacer kit. it comes with 1mm spacers and 2mm spacers. use them together, and you'll gain 3mm per side (obviously ). you'll most likely need to use a low profile 8-32 lock nut, too.

scr8p, are using losi cvd axles or associated cvd axles. the reason i ask is the losi ones are slightly longer and the drive pin hole is moved further out on the axle compared to assoc. ones. i usually see the dirt oval guys run the losi axles so they can gain a little more width when using c.w. or dynotech wheel spacers.

wyldbill wrote:scr8p, are using losi cvd axles or associated cvd axles.

it's the complete b4 cvd kit (axles, bones, etc.). i wonder if the b4 axle is similar to the losi axle? is definately different than say a b2/b3. the drive pin is out further on the axle like you mention. the total length of the axle is longer, too.

the lhs called today to let me know that my b44 cvd kit showed up, but i was too lazy to go and get it.

i wonder if the b4 axle is similar to the losi axle?

it could be, i think thats how they get away with the adjustiable width. when you move the hub carrier on the arm you move spacers/shims to the other side to make up the difference or something like that.

out of curiosity, i took a look at the cvd/outdrive clearance on a couple of my standard rc10's. they're not any better than what i've put together. a couple of them were actually worse, in my opinion. i might just keep the b4 cvd's in mine.

I gotta have those graphite towers!! Is someone making these???

well, i changed mine around again, and i believe i have what i want now.

when i measured the rear trackwidth using the b4 cvd's, it seemed just a bit too wide in relationship to the front. so, i took out the b4 cvd's, and put in the b44 rear cvd's i picked up. using these, i was able to take the axle shims i had on the outside of the hubs, and move them to the inside. it didn't narrow it up a ton, but it is better. and, if i'd want to use 1.5, or even 0 degree arm mounts, i'll be able to do so without any binding issues in the outdrive.

aeiou wrote: As I suspected, I ended up with the 1.02” shocks in the front.

What's the advantage to running the Truck tower and shocks ?

aeiou wrote: I’m not sure who makes the body (JConcepts, maybe?). It came with a B4 lot, already painted and just slightly used. Since it sort of fits the theme, I thought I’d try it out on this build and it ended up fitting pretty well (where would we be without Velcro?).

Is that body really for a B4 ? because I've got a stock B4 body, and It doesn't even come close to fitting over the tub chassis.





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Chrominator wrote:What's the advantage to running the Truck tower and shocks ?

Essentially, the improved narrow front end setups, with their longer arms and inner pivot points moved closer together, create a longer arm travel arc. The taller shocks are needed to handle that additional travel.

Chrominator wrote:Is that body really for a B4 ? because I've got a stock B4 body, and It doesn't even come close to fitting over the tub chassis.

That body needed considerable trimming to get it to work and it’s not a drop-on fit by any means. It requires Velcro to hold it snug to the sides of the chassis. Neither the B4 stock nor JConcepts bodies fit that well – if at all - over an untrimmed/uncut tub chassis.

aeiou wrote:

Chrominator wrote:What's the advantage to running the Truck tower and shocks ?

Essentially, the improved narrow front end setups, with their longer arms and inner pivot points moved closer together, create a longer arm travel arc. The taller shocks are needed to handle that additional travel.

Chrominator wrote:Is that body really for a B4 ? because I've got a stock B4 body, and It doesn't even come close to fitting over the tub chassis.

That body needed considerable trimming to get it to work and it’s not a drop-on fit by any means. It requires Velcro to hold it snug to the sides of the chassis. Neither the B4 stock nor JConcepts bodies fit that well – if at all - over an untrimmed/uncut tub chassis.

Cool, thanks for the Info.

So for my car (graphite RC10) I swapped the suspension components over from a B4 roller.

Here is what I have:
-RC10 Graphite
-3 degree arm mounts rear
-B4 steering knuckles/ B4 rear hubs / b4 CVDs
-RPM "wide" replacement arms (not the worlds length)
-RPM Wide Rear

I've found:
-the B4 CVDs bind slightly on one side when shock is compressed
-The Turnbuckles are slightly longer
-The wheels fit w/o interference


Im still trying to finish this project. I'll try and get pics up of my progress.


MOmo

Ok, so I did the BJ4WE Rear CVD swap and that solved my binding issues. I didn't get a chance to race it that friday night at the club race, but I did visit the track on Sat. and put a couple packs through it and was very happy with the results.

The car handled quite well. It did push a bit in the corners, but that might be due to the stock servo and a very basic setting of the suspension.

The graphite chassis held up well. I want to get some more track time on the car and hopefuly the club race this week will yeild several vintage drivers.



MOmo

i had terrible on power push with the 3 degree arm mounts. i swapped them out for a set of 1.5's and it was much better.