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Knocked over three projects, can't orient them too tall and narrow.

Going for a more shallow angle this time.


If this doesn't work, one side will just have to be ugly.

The printed side facing up is always good.




The underside, or layer resting on the supports, is always rough.




I'm learning a bunch on what to expect, and how to correct prints before they can go wrong. Saves throwing away the expensive stuff, though there will be another learning curve with each new filament.

When the AMS from QIDI comes out, I'm looking forward to using different filament for the support material than the printed material, for better separation.

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Mon Oct 28, 2024 10:21 pm

The printed side facing up is always good.




The underside, or layer resting on the supports, is always rough.




I'm learning a bunch on what to expect, and how to correct prints before they can go wrong. Saves throwing away the expensive stuff, though there will be another learning curve with each new filament.

When the AMS from QIDI comes out, I'm looking forward to using different filament for the support material than the printed material, for better separation.

Using different material as a support interface is a game changer for quality but it can reduce layer bonding as well so for structural parts you need to be careful .

Finished printing the first of two colors for the 1:10 scale crash test dummy.






https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/1-10-crash-test-dummy-figure-ragdoll-robroy07

Got the PETG in white, and Olive Green in Matte PLA.




Having good success printing PLA in 30% humidity so far.

A local facility manufactures Jessie brand PLA. They insist that PLA really doesn't need to be dried. Water is a part of the manufacturing process. It is used to make the plastic more ductile and the filament runs through a 20' trough of water during manufacturing from pellet form. ABS and PETG do require drying and careful storage to avoid stringing.

On a side note, I really like that matte olive filament.

That is interesting, I will say I only dry my pla when it gets brittle but otherwise really never felt the need much.

The SRB model @XLR8 made is incredibly accurate. I'm having a great time trying to print it, and learning the hard lessons to get good prints.

I've started using the (F) Faces feature in Orca, and then turning the part on what ever side is flat, or won't be seen. I've found for what I'm doing the 0.12mm layer height High Quality setting is optimal.


Here are the universal joints on the rear axle, need to clean them better, and drill them hollow.




The front torsion tubes were the easiest cleanup yet.








Face oriented printing.

Elkcycles wrote: ↑Wed Oct 30, 2024 9:15 pm A local facility manufactures Jessie brand PLA. They insist that PLA really doesn't need to be dried. Water is a part of the manufacturing process. It is used to make the plastic more ductile and the filament runs through a 20' trough of water during manufacturing from pellet form. ABS and PETG do require drying and careful storage to avoid stringing.

On a side note, I really like that matte olive filament.

Interesting comment, but I do have here some PLA from a generic brand that actually needs to be dried a bit : if not, it breaks too easily, leading to many filament run out, which is never happening when it's printed from the dryer.

Will get back to printing the SRB shortly.

Took a break to print a case adapter/holder for the Mac SE.


This tray holds the SCSI drive emulator, and allows access to the SD card/hard drive from the rear, so the case doesn't have to be opened up to switch images.



Will order the metal bracket to secure this. One more thing that was great to have a 3d printer for.

Back to the SRB print.

Front pivots, rear axles and front springs.


Getting close to being done with printing the SRB. Will drill and tap most of this, but probably have to CA or hot glue some things along the way.

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Sat Nov 02, 2024 10:29 pm

Front pivots, rear axles and front springs.


Getting close to being done with printing the SRB. Will drill and tap most of this, but probably have to CA or hot glue some things along the way.

I tried very hard to model those shock accurately. I hope they don't leak.

XLR8 wrote: ↑Sat Nov 02, 2024 11:46 pm I tried very hard to model those shock accurately. I hope they don't leak.

Maybe I should turn them upside down?

Got the white PETG, and Olive Matte PLA. The PETG Manx dune buggy chassis was the last piece to print, it's ready for assembly.


The Olive Matte is exactly the same color as plastic army men.


First crash test dummy, forgot to print his eyes.


Have a couple pan head phillips screw kits on the way, M2, M3, and M4, then I can get started.

GoMachV wrote: ↑Wed Oct 30, 2024 11:12 pm That is interesting, I will say I only dry my pla when it gets brittle but otherwise really never felt the need much.

That is about the same on my end. I don't think I have had a printing issue with PLA because of being wet, only breaking .............. usually in the AMS. What is a little weirder is that I use the same brand of PLA for the most part, and keep four colors in the AMS, and certain colors break faster than others White will always break before the others, followed by Red, then Blue, and I guess Black, but I don't think the Black has ever broken. I have gotten lazy about just keeping filaments in the AMS, and I haven't done anything about a long term method of keeping it dry in there, so I should look into that.