Fan RC FR-01

[Rc10812]

Just throwing another update at ya. Progress is good. I'm up to making the shocks so it really feels like a car now. Gearbox issues aside this kit is very well done. Like I said I'll chalk the t nut up to a bad part. The ones I ordered through AE seem to have a better insert so I'll hope that solves that issue. I'll run the kit diff rings until it's time to rebuild. So I just gotta hope that the tightness in the gearbox is solved with a break in period. I have a fair amount of confidence it will and if it does so without shredding the case or gears that will be a huge win. The issue of the kit not coming with instructions hasn't been, well an issue for me. The world's instructions really are close enough. The thrust ring uses the caged ball washer not the thrust balls the instructions call for but the way it's packaged makes that fairly obvious. Even for me who screwed that part up at first. And the shock spacers for the rear shocks are not right as per the world's instructions but that's an easy fix with a small bit of fuel tubing. At least I've been told. I haven't actually gotten there yet. There may be more but I haven't competed assembly. Although I do not expect anything major as most of the mechanical stuff is already done.

I'm sure by now someone has put some run time on their car, anyone care to share their thoughts? I'm super excited to see it boogie.

Speaking of, if I go by the chart on page 18 of the manual it says with a 17.5 brushless motor to use a 30t pinion. Or a 21t pinion for use with advanced timing speed controls. I have a hobby wing Xerun XR10 site control. Don't know if it has advanced timing but I would think it would say so if it did...? Given this information what size pinion is a good starting place?

[Rc10812]

Well I seem to be the only one left, lol so I'll just share my findings and hope that it helps someone build their own kit.

I just completed the assembly of the shocks. Now I had an idea going into this from just looking over the parts that these shocks are not the ones in the world's car kit. The bodies aren't threaded for ride height adjustment and the caps don't have bleeders. Just visually I could see they looked more like other associated shocks. So for their assembly I followed pg 30 of the "championship edition with stealth" manual. This seemed to coincide more with the parts supplied in the bag. However, I did refer back to the world's manual for the spring retainer clips on the shaft side of the shock. This worked without any problems. Then mounted the shocks as suggested in this thread.

There are 4 leftover spring retainers that I think are the original style. Does anyone know if they should be used or what advantage they offer? I suspect it only really changes the ride height by letting the spring be a little less compressed.

Also, these instructions call for you to fill the front shocks all the way to the top before screwing on the cap and to fill the rears 1/16" short of the top. I did this. But doesn't this leave a significant amount of air space in the cap still and therefore hurt the performance? They seem ok maybe one or two compressions felt a little airy but that seems to have subsided. Anyone have any shock building tips?

[GoMachV]

I spoke with Cheng yesterday and apparently in his kits he does include the 1.02 rear shafts so don't use the CE or Team manuals, use the original Worlds. I would highly recommend not using the rere manual for the majority of the kit since the rere manuals are beyond terrible. Find the original worlds manual online and use it, link below. The shock lengths from that manual will be correct plus iirc the bleeding instructions are better as well. He said his manual is still coming soon but no date.

http://oldrc.com/TeamAssociatedManuals/associated-manuals.html

[Retro rc]

Hopefully mine will be here this week

[Rc10812]

Oh this makes a few things so much clearer. I saw on the link to the rere world's manual that it does infact say re-release but i wasn't seeing any other world's manual.

So then... the fan kit comes with 10 little black spacers for the shocks. Each is .031". In the manual it says use one .062 and one .031 spacer on each rear shock. Same as using three .031 spacers. Then it calls for two .031 spacers on the front shocks. So that's 3 spacers for each rear (6 total) and 2 for each front (4 total) which equals the amount included in the kit. This makes me happy. Haha.

So it seems as though the only thing that could be considered as a parts to upgrade is the diff balls and rings. Things that were going to wear out and need to be replaced anyway. Ah, the FanRC plan becomes more clear and now I'm even more excited. Gotta go back and rebuild though in light of the new instructions but will happily do so.

[carloco8]

Well I seem to be the only one left, lol so I'll just share my findings and hope that it helps someone build their own kit.

I just completed the assembly of the shocks. Now I had an idea going into this from just looking over the parts that these shocks are not the ones in the world's car kit. The bodies aren't threaded for ride height adjustment and the caps don't have bleeders. Just visually I could see they looked more like other associated shocks. So for their assembly I followed pg 30 of the "championship edition with stealth" manual. This seemed to coincide more with the parts supplied in the bag. However, I did refer back to the world's manual for the spring retainer clips on the shaft side of the shock. This worked without any problems. Then mounted the shocks as suggested in this thread.

There are 4 leftover spring retainers that I think are the original style. Does anyone know if they should be used or what advantage they offer? I suspect it only really changes the ride height by letting the spring be a little less compressed.

Also, these instructions call for you to fill the front shocks all the way to the top before screwing on the cap and to fill the rears 1/16" short of the top. I did this. But doesn't this leave a significant amount of air space in the cap still and therefore hurt the performance? They seem ok maybe one or two compressions felt a little airy but that seems to have subsided. Anyone have any shock building tips?

The original rc10 shocks (top, bottom loaded, and v2) are some of the hardest shocks for people new to them to build correctly , and by that, I mean to properly bleed before the bleeder caps were made. Heck, Ive been building them since the original rc10 came out like many here and I still struggle to get them right! Assembling the parts is no problem, but filling them with oil was always an issue you hear about. For the most part the instructions get you half way there. The rest is experience and "feel" because each shock size/shaft length/cap requires a different amount of initial oil fill before screwing on the cap to get it close to the right "feel" without it being over pressurized or underfilled with a huge air bubble in them. Generally, the longer the shock, the more gap (in very small increments) between the top of the shock body and inserted oil is needed to compensate for the longer stroke/emulsion. DS shocks i fill with a dome of oil before screwing the caps on and the 1.39 truck rears are filled roughly 1/8" below the top to start. What makes it trickier is little things like the shock caps that have slightly changed with each rc10 generation as well (newer caps being more hollow). Otherwise, there is a lot of back and forth reopening a shock and taking out or putting more oil in until it feels like its right. Being that they are emulsion shocks, there will always be a slight air bubble feel to them when initially compressed. The goal usually is to minimize the air bubble feeling and have very little to no shaft rebound when pushed all the way in when first built or rebuilt. Then you can assemble the rest of the shock, compress it 10+ times and then if it feels fairly consistent, you are golden. I remember watching rc10 pro racers pump each shock on there car 10-15 times before they put it down on the track for a race or run to make sure the oil in each shock was fully emulsified so their car would handle correctly right away instead of being off for the first few laps.

[Rc10812]

Oh thanks Carloco8. That's great info for when I rebuild the shocks. Anyone have any thoughts on shock fluid? I have both 40w and 27.5w was gonna use 40 in the rear and 27.5 in the front. Or would it be better to just go with 30w as the manual suggest for now?

For the rear turnbuckles I stuck with the length given in the rere world's instructions. My thought is that this rear bulkhead doesn't have the hole referred to in the original worlds manual. Is this the correct spec to use for the rear?

[GoMachV]

For the rear turnbuckles I stuck with the length given in the rere world's instructions. My thought is that this rear bulkhead doesn't have the hole referred to in the original worlds manual. Is this the correct spec to use for the rear?

the rere manual shows using the hole under the wing mount because AE were dummies and didnt add the Worlds hole to the bulkhead. The hole they used is the same one all CE/Team cars use so its fine, but the original Worlds hole (as well as DS) doesnt exist on the rere stuff for some reason. Since Fan copied the rere not the original, you need to follow the rere turnbuckle length.

[Rc10812]

The original rc10 shocks (top, bottom loaded, and v2) are some of the hardest shocks for people new to them to build correctly , and by that, I mean to properly bleed before the bleeder caps were made. Heck, Ive been building them since the original rc10 came out like many here and I still struggle to get them right! Assembling the parts is no problem, but filling them with oil was always an issue you hear about. For the most part the instructions get you half way there. The rest is experience and "feel" because each shock size/shaft length/cap requires a different amount of initial oil fill before screwing on the cap to get it close to the right "feel" without it being over pressurized or underfilled with a huge air bubble in them. Generally, the longer the shock, the more gap (in very small increments) between the top of the shock body and inserted oil is needed to compensate for the longer stroke/emulsion. DS shocks i fill with a dome of oil before screwing the caps on and the 1.39 truck rears are filled roughly 1/8" below the top to start. What makes it trickier is little things like the shock caps that have slightly changed with each rc10 generation as well (newer caps being more hollow). Otherwise, there is a lot of back and forth reopening a shock and taking out or putting more oil in until it feels like its right. Being that they are emulsion shocks, there will always be a slight air bubble feel to them when initially compressed. The goal usually is to minimize the air bubble feeling and have very little to no shaft rebound when pushed all the way in when first built or rebuilt. Then you can assemble the rest of the shock, compress it 10+ times and then if it feels fairly consistent, you are golden. I remember watching rc10 pro racers pump each shock on there car 10-15 times before they put it down on the track for a race or run to make sure the oil in each shock was fully emulsified so their car would handle correctly right away instead of being off for the first few laps.

So the shocks are rebuilt. And yeah that's a lot of back and forth cap on, cap off, cap on... here's a little bit about what I learned. First, make sure you tighten the cap all the way before pumping the shocks to check the shaft rebound. I cheated a little and I think it threw off a few early attempts. I actually found that it wasn't so hard getting the level of the fluid right it was much harder getting the position of the piston right before sealing the shock by putting the cap back on. We are talking slight changes making big differences. Ultimately, what worked for me was having the top of the piston just barely still covered w fluid. My previous attempts still had a little bit of a dome of fluid on top of the piston. What seemed to do the trick was having just enough fluid to cover the holes still in the piston to not let air in but not enough to have that surface tension dome of fluid protruding above the shock body. (Fonts did still have a bit more dome than the rears) The fluid level was fairly easy to adjust but yeah lots of putting in one or two more drops and then sometimes using a paper towel to dab a little liquid out. But every time you take the cap back off you gotta usually adjust the fluid level.

The final results were just under a quarter inch of shaft rebound on the front shocks and maybe just over 1/8 " on the rear. So plus or minus 3/16 for each. The world's instructions say a quarter inch is the proper rebound so I settled on that. Again the proper world's instructions linked a few posts above by GoMachV are key here. I used them and the explanation from Carloco8 to hone in on the proper (or acceptable) setup. Thanks guys! In the end there is a slight difference from front to back but the fonts both match and the rears both match in shaft rebound so I'm hoping that provides consistent handling at the least. Thanks again to all for your input as you've just leveled up my assembly skills.

[carloco8]

Right on! Im glad it helped. Sounds like you got it down pretty good now

[RogueIV]

I "fixed" my steering issues by borrowing some A&L parts from a different buggy. I grabbed the screws, collars and nuts to secure the "Worlds" steering belcranks. No more wobbly belcranks. I would have used the entire kit but it's for a JRX2 so the link is wrong and the arm is the wrong way on the left belcrank. The servo arm is still pretty flexible though so will go to a full Factory Works setup when ever i decided to make the next order of things from them.

[GoMachV]

just a heads up, i have literally thousands of those 8-32 posts and nuts in the old school fluorescent yellow- if anyone is making a purchase on the website just leave a note for how many you need and ill add them to the order for free- so long as its a realistic quantity lol. I have plenty of 4-40 left as well. Note these older ones might need a tap ran through them or else they can be pretty snug in the bearings. They take dye really well if you want em black.

[RogueIV]

just a heads up, i have literally thousands of those 8-32 posts and nuts in the old school fluorescent yellow- if anyone is making a purchase on the website just leave a note for how many you need and ill add them to the order for free- so long as its a realistic quantity lol. I have plenty of 4-40 left as well. Note these older ones might need a tap ran through them or else they can be pretty snug in the bearings. They take dye really well if you want em black.

That's amazing! Got any stock of those 100degree long 8-32 screws? willing to pay for a few of those next order.

[GoMachV]

Just the standard 3/4" that comes with our kits? I don't keep a lot of them but I can get you set up.

[Anthony]

Hello,

Some of us have experienced it in the build stage, transmission is tight, so far away from the standart Stealth transmission we used a long time ago in the 90's.

For those who have run the FANRC buggy, how is the transmission after a bunch of packs?

Does the transmission become freer after a few runs or do we have to rework the assembly to find tips to make it freer?

Thank you.