RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Sat May 04, 2024 1:29 pm Ebay seller just left, he hand delivered this, and refunded the shipping charge in cash. Best ebay deal ever, in over 24 years.

Unless he offered local pickup in his ad, he may have an issue here. Whenever I have tried to purchase using this method, sellers have always stated that they needed to prove shipping / delivery to eBay in order to finalize the auction.

morrisey0 wrote: ↑Sat May 04, 2024 7:49 pm I have never seen a Magnum Racer. Looks to be a re-badged Junior??? Maybe a RTR model?

The ones I did see that were Futaba FP-T2PKA, that were this Magnum Racer version, looked to have Japanese writing all over, wonder if this is the same as Junior, Sport, but called Racer for Japan. That's the best guess I've got, because they all seem the same.

Took it all apart and cleaned it real well. It smelled like those Glade plugins, that nasty oily air freshener, got rid of that stink.


The antenna is not the stock one, but the one included does thread in.


Best part, it works like new still.




Have never taken apart or built a 6-gear, looking forward to pulling the rest of this apart, and replacing all the oil/grease, with a full clean.

morrisey0 wrote: ↑Sat May 04, 2024 7:54 pm

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Sat May 04, 2024 1:29 pm Ebay seller just left, he hand delivered this, and refunded the shipping charge in cash. Best ebay deal ever, in over 24 years.

Unless he offered local pickup in his ad, he may have an issue here. Whenever I have tried to purchase using this method, sellers have always stated that they needed to prove shipping / delivery to eBay in order to finalize the auction.

It shows shipment in progress, not sure how this will play out, but as soon as you print the label you get the money as a seller. Already left Positive feedback for him, so I'm not sure how this could go wrong. We'll see I guess.

I bought the Hoonitruck Apex2 directly from Team Associated Clearance, on ebay, my ebay record still shows that car is in shipment, or was never delivered, and that was months ago.

For reference, once again, the actual movie car:

















Trying to figure out what Rx and ESC those are.

Looks to me like the Rx is a Futaba FP-R4H, but would need a black antenna.


The ESC looks like a Futaba MC 112B.


Those look as close as I can find to the movie car. Need to find out the motor too.

The 27 Band receiver came with a dark green (or black?) antenna.

That must be it! I could tell from the pics of the movie car, it was a 27Mhz Rx, but didn't know about the antenna color difference. All of the FP-R4H I could find, are 72Mhz, I need the 27Mhz one. Thanks for that!

Bought a cheap Futaba MC 112B, and a cheap FP-R4H 72Mhz, under $50 for both. I'll keep my eyes open for the 27Mhz version.

Talking with Jimmy from DHawk racing again about getting The Dead Pool wheels made.

For reference, these are @MarkyDents excellent pics of the Advance Engineering Mini-Mags, in 3S, or three slot. I need these exact wheels, in 5S, or five slots, for The Dead Pool wheels.



Front wheels 1.7" x 0.75"



Rear Wheels 1.7" x 1.35"







The Dead Pool wheels are A10-F5S and A10-R5S - RC10 bearings, not metric.


Standard Team Associated tire setup, foam.




If you see any errors here, please let me know, before this goes to the CNC.

Thanks!

Seems the 40th Anniversary RC10 has opened the flood gates for used parts at decent prices. Found the chassis for this project for $34, it's a late Edinger A stamp.




Won't feel bad about sanding and painting this one black.

The Rx and ESC got here today.


I hear the ESC may become flammable, so I'll be ready.


Opened the Rx to see if I could easily change the antenna color, which I can, but then I saw that the servos are some earlier type where the servo is male and the Rx is female. I have no servos to support that, or a Tx with AM 72MHz.

Then I remembered what Frankentruck was doing with his ESC, by using it as a shell to appear the same as the movie car, but to have something better/compatible inside, excellent idea and going with it. Will put a DSM Rx inside the Futaba FP-R4H.


Will easily fit, work with my servos, and still appear correct. Has the black antenna too.


I'll record the first ESC test, in case it erupts.

How do you guys think they did the shocks? Paint, or Aluminum Black?




I have a spare set of CE shocks, that have rubbed off a bit, that are good for this. Will CE shocks fit on an A stamp car?


Should I paint them, or use Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black?

Looks like black paint.

0.71 shocks are on the long side for a short arm car, particularly if you want a lower ride height.

If you have enough clearance at the body, a Factory Works 0.89 tower will allow you to use them. Jeff has a few different versions.

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=47871

This shows Andy's arms but the information applies to short arms as well.

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Thu May 09, 2024 11:02 pm Looks like black paint.

0.71 shocks are on the long side for a short arm car, particularly if you want a lower ride height.

If you have enough clearance at the body, a Factory Works 0.89 tower will allow you to use them. Jeff has a few different versions.

This will be going under a Bolink 63 vette body, it should have a lot of clearance for the front tower, I'll check again though.


I just now checked out the Factory Works 0.89 tower, do I need the CE/Team style, to make the CE shocks work on an A stamp?
https://factoryworks.com/shop/ols/products/fwbbf/v/RC1-89-BIG-BR-BLC-CE-TM

Thanks again!

No, that simply refers to the style of the tower.

I like the A&L towers, and use various ones on several of my cars. But functionally, there isn't much difference.

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Fri May 10, 2024 4:31 am No, that simply refers to the style of the tower.

I like the A&L towers, and use various ones on several of my cars. But functionally, there isn't much difference.

I will definitely keep this in mind for the future, to be able to use those CE shocks on another project. Thanks!



Decided to try to keep as close as I can to the movie car, and use the stock length shocks, for the narrow front arms.

From what I read, the early front arm car is 0.56 and the rear is 1.32 stroke.


Not looking forward to painting these nice new Fan RC shocks, black, but original shocks cost more and would need to be rebuilt.
https://www.gofasthobbies.com/collections/fan-rc

Found a late Edinger motor mount for $15 today - this one I am looking forward to painting black.

Before painting a new set of shocks, I'd probably settle for the dark grey with black caps.