RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

radioactivity wrote: ↑Sat Mar 20, 2021 7:09 pm Old-----New


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Chuck

Yet I can see no evidence that it ever skipped while running or lost a tooth. It's amazing how completely chewed up a plastic gear can become and still function.
Makes me think of the old Muncie rock crusher 4 speed. This tranny certainly has process its share of gravel.

Chuck, i am unable to work or do anything for a few weeks so i need u to update this thread several times a day. Doing a stellar job as always.

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Chuck

Standing by for next update.

Got the drive train together.



Got all the necessities together for anodizing except dye.
I can't decide on dye color for chassis and parts
Any suggestions, anyone?

Chuck

IIRC, the only part that's anodized in color is the main chassis plate.
If you're going full boxart restoration, then I guess you will want to ano the plate in bronze.
If you're going with custom colors on body and wing, then perhaps you will want to select ano color that goes with the paint and maybe ano the motor plate and stanchions as well?
Just my 2 cents of course.

Chuck, it has to be bronze. Please! I am begging you to go all original. This is your first ever kyosho build, please stay true to its legendary roots. Can't imagine why you wouldn't want too.

radioactivity wrote: ↑Mon Mar 22, 2021 12:48 pm Got all the necessities together for anodizing except dye.
I can't decide on dye color for chassis and parts
Any suggestions, anyone?

I try to think of what paint scheme I'll do for the body before I would get parts anodized. For example, with my OptiMutt build, I wanted the body to be a midnight blue with red & orange stripes, so I went with mostly light blue anodized parts and fasteners, and an orange motor & ESC combo (Leopard Toro). My custom paint color for midnight blue didn't quite turn out as dark as I wanted, and was a bit more like a dark teal, but I was still happy with the overall look.

For CYANide, I had all the parts anodized by pargu in Korea, and knew from the start that the body would be painted CheZoom Teal.

For Barney, I had a guy in USA come up with really cool custom purple and green anodizing, and again, I knew the body would be painted a purple & green combo in advance.

My Red Tide Lucas Arts Agitator will all be done in red anodize when it's finished, and I'll come up with some paint scheme for the body to work with that.

I've been on this forum a loooong time and every time I see someone do a resto, and do yet another box-art build...I go...Yay.

Bronze

Anyway to start a poll on the topic with no rigged voting?

No need for a poll, or rigged voting for that matter...box-art would likely win. But, every herd needs a shepherd or two...

Chuck, Chico, Ole Buddy, we go back a long ways. I am asking you you for a favor here, can do me a solid on this deal?

I'm on the fence with this one.
On one hand, I like box-art restorations for vintage RC's as they are immediately recognizable and for the nostalgia.
On the other hand, I'm very curious to see what Chuck does with this. I think it's gonna be good regardless which way he goes.
A nice Mid always gets my attention no matter what color it is. I think it's just one of the very best buggies from bitd.

XLR8 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 05, 2021 7:00 pm FWIW, I've owned 3 or 4 Mids and all of them were missing part OPM-9. You can see it here on page 13 of the manual.


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I've never actually seen one but I think it's rubber. It's meant to seal the underside of the belt cover where the belt exits the rear gearbox - directly above the motor. This part never comes up on ebay so I think it's rare.
I've made a rather poor substitute by forming a piece of lexan but it really doesn't work very well.
I'd reckon this part would be a perfect candidate for 3d printing if anyone has access to one they could replicate.

All of my Mids came with one!
Couldn't believe it.

Nice project.
I'll be turning a Turbo Mid into an SE soon and I think I've come up with the best, cheapest way to get a set of SE rims.
Buy a set of alloy rims off eBay.
Polish the hell out of the lip and mask it.
Rough up the centres with some 400 wet sandpaper and etch prime them, then give the centres 3 or 4 light coats of Eastwood's Alumablast.
Bingo!

radioactivity wrote: ↑Sat Mar 20, 2021 7:09 pm Old-----New


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Chuck

An alloy counter gear?! Where do I get one?
Already installed Thorp top gears on mine, way nicer than the kit's.