Page 6 of 27

Re: RC10 MIP 4-10 Legend Build

Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 1:35 am
by clm
It looks about as good as the cover in the photo :)

Chris

Re: RC10 MIP 4-10 Legend Build

Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 2:14 am
by littleVETTE
awesome job todd. maybe use some clear tape to put the gear covers together?

did you get any of the electronics with your package?

Re: RC10 MIP 4-10 Legend Build

Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 10:49 am
by vsefiream
I have some vintage NORRCA decals if you want those. I don't see any on the car but there here if ya want 'em

Re: RC10 MIP 4-10 Legend Build

Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 10:58 am
by Vintagemishal
vsefiream wrote:I have some vintage NORRCA decals if you want those. I don't see any on the car but there here if ya want 'em
That would be cool!

Re: RC10 MIP 4-10 Legend Build

Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 11:02 am
by Vintagemishal
littleVETTE wrote:awesome job todd. maybe use some clear tape to put the gear covers together?

did you get any of the electronics with your package?
Thanks Rob! I thought about using clear tape and think I will give it a shot.

I got an Airtronics radio, about 4 Orion battery packs, and about 5 Peak Performance motors. I believe there might be a Peak motor in it, in the pics? I have some Novak speed controls and receivers, but cannot tell what models were used? Any feedback on that is appreciated. I was a Tekin guy, so not completely up on my Novak stuff. Also need some input on the servo and the wheels. I am thinking that the rears are B2/B3 and the fronts are most likely MIP. I will never find the MIP wheels, so any suggestions/advice there is appreciated. If there is anything else that someone sees that I am missing, let me know.

Thanks,

Todd

Re: RC10 MIP 4-10 Legend Build

Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 11:09 am
by jwscab
the front wheels look like they have a fairly flat face, I'd probably take a B4 rear wheel, and trim off the inner bead, to narrow it up, and open up the hole if necessary to make it fit, that I think would be pretty close(only 2.2" though). Otherwise, a custom works wheel is also similar, but only black or grey, but they are 2.0".

the rear wheels look to me like the losi wheels with the lexan cover on the front, since you can kind of see ribs in it. a B2/B3 wheel would probably be just as effective.

Re: RC10 MIP 4-10 Legend Build

Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 11:17 am
by Vintagemishal
I thought about B44, but do they use a hex or a pin?

Re: RC10 MIP 4-10 Legend Build

Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 11:20 am
by Vintagemishal
jwscab wrote:the front wheels look like they have a fairly flat face, I'd probably take a B4 rear wheel, and trim off the inner bead, to narrow it up, and open up the hole if necessary to make it fit, that I think would be pretty close(only 2.2" though). Otherwise, a custom works wheel is also similar, but only black or grey, but they are 2.0".

the rear wheels look to me like the losi wheels with the lexan cover on the front, since you can kind of see ribs in it. a B2/B3 wheel would probably be just as effective.
I have lots of B4 wheels, so I could give that a shot as well. I am not too worried about using a 2.2 wheel. I don't think the size difference would be all that noticeable.

Re: RC10 MIP 4-10 Legend Build

Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 11:36 am
by kink
If clear tape does not work how about clear silicone bathroom sealant? You can remove excess with a wet finger to achieve a nice even join line. Much easier than glue anyway.

Re: RC10 MIP 4-10 Legend Build

Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 11:39 am
by Vintagemishal
kink wrote:If clear tape does not work how about clear silicone bathroom sealant? You can remove excess with a wet finger to achieve a nice even join line. Much easier than glue anyway.
That is a great idea as well. Thanks

Re: RC10 MIP 4-10 Legend Build

Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 11:40 am
by Vintagemishal
I have a pair of Losi wheels with the lexan covers, but they do not seem right. They do not appear to have enough dish and the offset seems wrong.

Image

Image

Re: RC10 MIP 4-10 Legend Build

Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 11:48 am
by Vintagemishal
Vintagemishal wrote:
littleVETTE wrote:would you happen to have the gear cover? i was looking at the photo that pierre provided and it seems to look identical to a few other associated factory rigs that had the same gear cover at the 93 worlds. i think it was an associated prototype gear cover that had the looks of the original gear cover, but extended for the the hydra drive. i would like to see its features if you have it.

also i'm not a losi guy, but that hydra drive you put on looks to be a little different than most production units. i'm aware some people had different methods to hold the cases together, but that setup you have i don't think i've seen before. it also looks like they milled away material from the outside diameter. maybe to fit the gear cover, reduce weight, etc.? maybe a losi guy could chime in and recognize it.

Image
Image
Image
I was actually going to ask if anyone knew what the gear cover was. I will look again, but I do not think that I have it? :(

I am not a Losi guy either, so I have no idea about the Hydra drive?
I do not have the MIP battery strap. Does anybody out there have one of these?

Also, if you look at the transmission brace you can see the 4-10 decal. Can anyone tell what is above the 4-10? Almost looks like newer AE logo, but I think those are too new for 93'?

Re: RC10 MIP 4-10 Legend Build

Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 12:18 pm
by vsefiream
The wheels in the vintage photos are probably Losi disc wheels for RC10. I see them in white and yellow on Ebay from time to time. They seem to sell at fairly low prices for NIB sets. I had them on this car in yellow and on my stealth in white:

Image

Image

Re: RC10 MIP 4-10 Legend Build

Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 12:25 pm
by JK Racing
I think I have a set of yellow ones sitting in a box at home...shoot me a PM if interested.

Re: RC10 MIP 4-10 Legend Build

Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 12:29 pm
by clm
Above the 4-10 it clearly says 'MIP'

As for the esc, likely one of the 410 line, the 410 m5 was oddly more popular back then over the higher end m1 or mxc with racers even though they tended to go through the trouble of converting from 4 to 3 wire setup.

Chris

Edit: judging by the wide secondary heat sink and the wires exiting from the back instead of the side... I am guessing a later 410 M5 without solder pop fuse.