RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

A few people have asked about a parts list, so I cleaned up the one I had been building during this process and have it here for anyone who is wondering...

Relatively Unavailable Parts (read: buy them when you find them if you need them)
RC10 gold tub chassis, nose plate and motor plate
RC10 Stealth transmission
RC10 rear A-arms
RC10 rear arm mounts
RC10 "Team" rear bulkhead
RPS/Team Losi RC10 aluminum steering bellcranks
TRC 1.75" body posts
JG RC10 rear body mount, kydex

Limited Parts
Atlas carbon fiber "Worlds" front shock tower ....... $17.50
Atlas carbon fiber "Worlds" rear shock tower ....... $17.50
Atlas carbon fiber "Worlds" transmission brace ....... $8.50
Atlas carbon fiber battery strap ....... $4.00
ASC6206 Associated front A-arms, wide track ....... $5.79
ASC6207 Associated front suspension mount ....... $2.00
ASC6321 Associated Team nose brace tubes, black (2) ....... $4.79

Common Parts
ASC9601 Associated B4 top shaft ....... $9.39
ASC9604 Associated (2) B4 slipper hub ....... $7.69
ASC9603 Associated B4 slipper pads ....... $6.69
ASC9649 Associated B4 72 tooth spur gear ....... $3.89
ASC9605 Associated B4 slipper spring ....... $1.50
ASC6629 Associated B4 slipper nut ....... $1.00
ASC7461 Associated B4 gear cover ....... $3.79
ASC9756 Associated B44 rear CVDs ....... $26.99
ASC9730 Associated Rear hub carrier B4/B44 ....... $3.79
ASC7933 Associated GT2 crush tube ....... $1.39
ASC9608 Associated B4 wheel spacer ....... $3.89
ASC9580 Associated B4 25° caster blocks ....... $2.89
ASC9581 Associated B4 steering knuckles ....... $2.89
ASC1585 Associated B4 front axles ....... $13.95
ASC9622 Associated B4 hinge pin set ....... $3.89
ASC9645 Associated 2/56” short screws ....... $2.00
ASC3857 Associated (2 packs) short black ball studs ....... $5.00
ASC1787 Associated B4/B44 thumbscrews ....... $6.69
ASC8535 Associated 10R5 oval chassis standoff ....... $6.95 THESE ARE METRIC!
ASC1779 B4 servo mounts, blue aluminum (2) ....... $14.95
RPM 70411 RC10 shorty front bumper ....... $3.95
KIM201 Kimbrough mid-size servo saver, black ....... $5.95  
PRO2667-02 Pro-Line Velocity 2.2" yellow rear RC10B4 (2 ....... $6.69
PRO2666-02 Pro-Line Velocity 2.2" wide yellow front RC10B4 (2) ....... $6.69
JC3017-05 JConcepts Bar Codes 2.2 front tire, gold (2) ....... $10.59
JC3016-05 JConcepts Bar Codes 2.2 rear tire, gold (2 ....... $11.29
LOSA6015 Team Losi super duty rod ends, natural white (12) ....... $5.95
LOSA8108 Team Losi XX4 maxi-wing ....... $2.50
KYOLA213 Kyosho ZX5 bumper & wing stay set ....... $4.59
KYOW5196V Kyosho Velvet coated rear shock set (38mm) ....... $52.99
KYOW5194V Kyosho Velvet coated front shock set (30mm) ....... $44.99
Lunsford Punisher titanium turnbuckles: $4.50 ea
- (1) 1.000"
- (2) 1.375"
- (3) 1.500"
- (2) 1.625"

Bearings
R166ZZ Avid (8) 3/16 x 3/8" metal bearing ....... $1.00 ea
FR168ZZ Avid (4) 1/4 x 3/8" flanged metal bearings ....... $1.00 ea

Misc. purple anodized and stainless hardware – Fastener Express
Various screws, nuts, ball ends, washers, spacers

WOW

good job on the list

Thanks for all the photos and info Doug. This is the best resource for a practical RC10 re-furb/modernization I've found anywhere. Hopefully I'll get mine together and we can show em' how it "used to be done" in the day at Lake in the Hills' new track.

Will you be up at Trackside at all this year? I race there but not as frequently as I used to.

davidka wrote:Thanks for all the photos and info Doug. This is the best resource for a practical RC10 re-furb/modernization I've found anywhere. Hopefully I'll get mine together and we can show em' how it "used to be done" in the day at Lake in the Hills' new track.

Will you be up at Trackside at all this year? I race there but not as frequently as I used to.

Not sure if I will make a Trackside run, David. Budget is extraordinarily limited this year, and the LitH track is going to be an easy ride for me. I can't wait to get this out to the track, for sure. We'll get those old golds kickin' around there soon enough.

Very nice on the list man! I have most of the parts allready, and am going to try to do this on a black chassis for my CE build, and it will probably be the last rc10 build I do. What better way to go out?

Awesome work man!

but one major change I would like to engineer on my car is a longer front camber link/ more inboard location.

i often thought of doing that too but thoes pesky nose tubes get in the way. that would probably only work on a graphite chassis.

I'm going to try this too. I already have 90% of the parts. and I can substitute the ones I don't have. Thanks for the inspiration.

Eau Rouge wrote:

Asso_man! wrote:Hey Doug, what kind of rear track do you get with that recipe? Closer to stock RC10 or to B4?

Clean job as always!

Thanks. The rear track is very close to an original RC10, when you include the B4 wheel/offset.

Measured from the face of the drive pin wheel mounting area without wheels on, then measured from the center of the axle line with wheels installed, to remove rear toe-in from the measurement:

• Stock RC10: 7.375" rear track width (9.000" with jellybean wheels/tires installed)
  
  Modified RC10 with B4/B44 outer drivetrain: 8.000" rear track width (9.250" with B4 wheels/tires installed)
  
  Stock B4: 8.313" rear track width (9.750" with b4 wheels/tires installed)

Say Doug, did you gain any front track width with the B4 caster blocks/spindles? Any mods needed to fit those plastic parts?

davidka wrote:Say Doug, did you gain any front track width with the B4 caster blocks/spindles? Any mods needed to fit those plastic parts?

I honestly don't have any width comparisons from a non B4-front end with wide front RC10 arms to go by, but the RC10/B4 is about .25" narrower on each side than my B4, so roughly .500" narrower front track. Almost a perfect balance in difference front to rear from the RC10 to the B4 (.500" narrower all the way around).

Front end is über straightforward. Stock RC10 wide front arms, RC10 inner and outer hinge pins + B4 30° C-hubs and steering knuckles. Use B4 kingpin and ream out the bottom hinge pin hole to .125-.126" and that's it. Super easy.

Ok, new wing finally came in (Losi XX4 Maxi straight), so I decided that the masking had been on the body long enough and I shot my colors on it. Going along with the idea that this car is built today as I would have done it in 1988 if I actually knew what I was doing, I gave the car my new school look with an old school body. Turned out pretty cool... I still love this body. Hopefully soon, Jay will have re-pops of this bad boy.

That buggy is freaking beautiful!
Very nice paint job and yes, I like this body style!

Eau Rouge and Ruffy what is the color of the bodies in your avatars? I've read and read and can't find the color. I'm in the process of restoring my 25 year old RC10 that was never built as a buggy.
Thanks

Butch

FordPSD wrote:Eau Rouge and Ruffy what is the color of the bodies in your avatars? I've read and read and can't find the color. I'm in the process of restoring my 25 year old RC10 that was never built as a buggy.

There is no proper direct color match to the box art RC10 right out of a jar. I custom mix my "box art orange" to get the proper shade and brightness, and use about 4 different pigments/colors to get the proper mix.



doug

Eau Rouge wrote:

FordPSD wrote:Eau Rouge and Ruffy what is the color of the bodies in your avatars? I've read and read and can't find the color. I'm in the process of restoring my 25 year old RC10 that was never built as a buggy.

There is no proper direct color match to the box art RC10 right out of a jar. I custom mix my "box art orange" to get the proper shade and brightness, and use about 4 different pigments/colors to get the proper mix.



doug

It is the box art orange I'm looking for. That's the color of the one on my box so I wanna do that way. Can you give away your formula?!!
Thanks

Butch

I just did it by trial and error and luckily mixed up a small bottle's worth. I don't have a formula and each time Im sure it will be a little different.
I used fastkolor paints, yellow, white and orange and mixed them until I got something close. I did also add just a very light drop of red once, but turned out too orangy so I used alot more yellow and little orange.
Thats all!

But like Doug stated, there is no set color. In fact our paint color is probably not the perfect color. I say this because I sent Curtis Hustin a wing for the original body from the boxart, and when it arrived, he took pictures that showed my color is a little light, it needs to be a darker hue of orange still from mine.