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Im all over the towers. Id be down for a couple of sets.


I am very impressed with this car and how it has been developed. I too race a vintage and would LOVE to make it more competitive. I feel improved towers would help quite a bit. Very impressed with what i see in your car. Digging the anodized chassis as well.



MOmo

cool nose wing on the #8 car.

Hey Siebenelch,

those are really beautyful cars!!

Since you're doing what i also like, "modern vintage" in a MUCH more professional way and you even race, you should really consider the worlds front setup with the rpm narrow rear conversion. I think due to the more centered roll center the handling should improve noticably. I also saw your weight up front. You might want to consider what I did with my buggy.

After modifiying my RC10T to fit 7 cell Packs (see pics) I wanted the same for my buggy. BUT I couldn't do that the same way due to the longer wheel base of the Truck. Instead I installed a GT sevo saver, and a low profile servo standing up. That way I gained the needed space.

I am not saying you should race with 7 cells, but it would give you more options to position the battery pack for weight distribution.

My Buggy is currently in my cellar, and I don't have any pics of the conversion, only from the truck.

Hope this can help for future races.

Hello Chewbacca!

What you did is crazy! 7 cells with BL-power!!! Nice high speed truck!

Your steering is interesting. I always search for the Masami hirosaka-Steering. I think, it´s from a Yokomo-car with a hand-made steering plate.

You bended the tubes to get space for the steering, right?

I own the RPM-RC10T front end, but I dont want use them. I want to keep the original-style.

If I make the steering, like Masami, I can put the battery much more forward. That will be my next step!

Thanks!

Michael

Hey Siebenelch nice that you like my "crazy" setup

This link shows the setup above in an early stage doing a
BACKFLIP

hope you like...

Now, back to steering setups. Yes you are right, I had to bend the nose tubes to make that steering work.

You can leave your current steering setup the way it is, just use a low profile servo standing up (aufrecht stehend) as close to the steering as possible. That way the servo itself is a bit more foreward, and you gail a 7-cell space for better weight positioning. I just used the GT steering, 'cause it's a perfect fit and I prefer those kind of servo savers over the kind mounted directly on the servo.

if you can find a set of aluminum sassy chassy belcranks they have the rod mount straight out the back instead of out the side. this would allow you to mount the servo sideways, i recently got a set from skunk werks and plan on doing the same thing on a future build. here is what they look like http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=4451&p=42420&hilit=sassy+chassy#p42420

Actually, A&L made a set of bellcranks with the same setup but I think it was for a Yokomo...?

Michael: What steering arms (spindles?) are you using on your car? Thanks!

Hey Michael you could also use the RC10T or RC10GT steering screws and a B2 or B3 steering Servo Saver Kit, you will probable need to cut the chassis tubes. I haven’t mounted it on a tub but yes on a flat chassis.

Nice steering ideas guys, I am copying Masami on one of my builds...

that is my standing low profile 7-cell conversion that I mentioned before.

It might be interesting for you racers for better weight distribution WITHOUT adding extra weight.

Hey Michael, could you tell me what kind of shock set-up you used to race with the RC10T rear shock tower? Where did you anchor the shocks up and down and did you use inside/outside limiters? Thanks!

Cheers,

David

Hi!

I use normally very soft springs. Green and brown springs.

With the RC10T shock tower i used the inner/lower holes for B4 shocks. In this configuration you have a little less down-travel. So I put a 6x2mm-shim (Take Off) between the ball-end and the shock shaft-thread to get a little more down-travel.

Maybe it´s the best to use RC10T-Rear shocks. The longest AE-shocks of all. So you have to try different shock-positions at the shock-stay.

I always use the outer position at the A-Arm.

You only have to keep an eye on your driveshafts. I try always to get maximum down-travel without losting the driveshafts from the Drive-cups.

If you push your car on the ground, the chassis-bottom must get contact to ground. If your shocks block before touching the ground, you have to use a higher shock-position at the shock-stay.

Same way at the front-shocks (if possible).

I feel, if I take soft shock-oil, the car gets better and better in this configuration. I use 20-30wt-shock-oil front and rear.

I installed anti-roll-bars at the front and rear. For my opinion the handling of the car is much better now. Especially the front anti-roll-bar helps a lot an high grip-tracks.

And I always use the 30 degree front hub carriers for more grip.

To avoid the extremely bump-steering of the original steering, I put 4mm spacers under the ball-ends of the steering knuckles. That helps a lot and reduce the bump steering until nearly zero.

Hope that will help you! More informations at the Vintage-Nationals. Haha! I hope, you will be there!

Michael

Did you fabricate your own roll bar Michael or did you use one from a newer kit?

I made new anti-roll-bars by myself from 1.5mm piano wire.

Michael

siebenelch wrote:Hello there!

Thank you very much for the comments!

This car is not 100% ready. There are some little things to do. I hope, I can start racing soon.

Here are some chassis-pics.

Michael

is there any advantage using the "HPI D-box" in off-road race ??.......