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Are you going to run this thing so we can see if there would be a vast difference over the Worlds Car's performance?

i doubt this one will ever be run. but i wouldn't mind picking up a used t2 to build a clone of it to actually be used. but that being said, i don't even use the runners i already have.

i doubt there'd be much difference. the suspension, and it's geometery, is exactly the same as the worlds car. other than the .89 front shocks. the only real difference would be the 2.60 trans. total weight should be very close, too.

Thanks for the updated pics! I've begun a copy of this buggy myself; you've inspired me. That has got to be the best thing about this forum! Personally, I can feel a real difference in the stiffness of the back end, because there is less flex in the bulkhead, and I can't wait to drive it on a track.
I hate to suggest it to a purist (i.e. 'boxart' ,etc.) , but the traxxas (gasp!) bandit body more closely follows the T2 tub than the viper. I'll post pics when I figure out where the film slot is in the computer!
You mentioned having trouble with the counter sink on the chassis. I just tried out my new 100 deg. countersink and it got death rattle on the upturned tub. I didn't clamp the chassis or support it from underneath, letting the bit find it's center. Bad tecnique!
I freaked out, but later I tried the method I used for carbon chassis. There is an orange grinding stone for dremels shaped like an oversized felt pen nib. Using the dressing stone, I shaped the point to closely resemble the screw head, and used it in a drill press. I tried that on the aluminum, (I know, a stone on alu; my shop teacher would have a hissy) and it came up really nice!
Just a tip for anyone who wants to mod a chassis...

if it wasn't for trying to put something together that associated "could've made", it would open the body choices up. but, i really only have one associated option that'll fit, and it's a viper. my only issue is that the tower sits towards the rear more than and standard rc10. so creative cutting, as well as making some lexan filler panels will need to be done to cover it.

Any updates? I am dying to see this project further!

not much since the last couple of pics. i got the trans built (thanks again for the parts). i was gonna just use a b3 slipper on it since i had new hubs for it. but when i went to put it on the car, i couldn't find any b3 discs. just ones for the robinson lightweight slipper. because of that, i decided to hunt for a new 2.25 slipper inner hub to go along with the new outer you sent me. i already have a couple new discs for those. al is hooking me up with a new inner hub (thanks al).

i had a new airtronics receiver laying around, so i put it in. when i can score a nip novak polaris receiver, it'll get swapped out. i got a nice ds spec motor for it from flipwillis (that's the motor that is in the t2 truck in the manual i have), but i really want to find a "mint" green label reedy sonic for it now. i'll put the ds motor in it temporarily. i also need to get some new 1700 scrc cells, some of the correct reedy battery connectors........ and a turnbuckle for the steering, too.

This car really was a great idea, it looks so factory!

comparison pics.....
i really need to get some electronics in that worlds car......

This is one of the coolest builds I've seen on here. Very, very nice work! Any more ideas on a body? I'm not a huge fan of the Viper. Would the B2 fit?

i think a b2 would be way too narrow at the front. so, i'm going with the viper. it's really the only associated body that'll fit the shape of the chassis.
biggest problem is that the shock tower sits further back than a standard buggy. so, i'll be making a panel to cover up the area i cut out. right now, i just notched it enough to fit the body. after the body is painted, i'll install the panel from the inside with servo tape.
for paint, it'll pretty much be like the T2 boxart. but i think i'll be changing the red in the back to blue. doug is also helping me with creating a decal sheet for it. more less, a b2 sheet. but where is says B2, it will now say B1.5.

I love the paint scheme and the decal idea.

Along those lines: it would be pretty easy (and not terribly expensive...maybe $100) to take a resin mold of a Viper, then mod it as needed to pull the sides in and fix the rear, then vacuum form a new B1.5 specific body that no one else has...

I'm just saying .

ROH73 wrote:Along those lines: it would be pretty easy (and not terribly expensive...maybe $100) to take a resin mold of a Viper, then mod it as needed to pull the sides in and fix the rear, then vacuum form a new B1.5 specific body that no one else has...

I'm just saying .

been think about it for awhile now. all it really needs is to have the rear roof line pulled back 3/16" or so.

Well, let me know if you want to do anything crazy. I was thinking the sides could be taken in and the roof line lengthened. See the attached pic.

i wouldn't want to pull the whole rear edge back. where the bump outs are above the shocks, i'd only wznt to take it back to the red line. that way they wouldn't look so huge.

the real problem area is where i marked it in blue. that section needs to come back like a 1/4".
for me, i kinda like the look of a bulky body. if i'd do anything to the sides, i would actually flair it out more at the rear tire....... kinda like the turbo mirage.

Those changes could be done. I could pull a resin mold and you could work some bondo magic .