RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Thu Dec 14, 2023 12:12 am

Dangeruss wrote: ↑Wed Dec 13, 2023 9:26 pm Box Art?? Nooo.....

Go full Baron on it!

That would be epic! Can you imagine the disgust and retribution that would bring me, defacing Andy's work like that.

Box art paint always deserves box art decals. Should be really pretty all stickered up.

Can't believe someone out there is making the specific, RC10gt box art decal sheet, so stoked. The seller sent me a nice email, letting me know he's in Canada and it could be a couple of weeks until the sheet gets here.

https://mciracing.ca/products/1-10th-associated-rc10-gt-box-art-decals

The radio gear should be here today, waiting on a Futaba RF Module, the Spektrum SM1000 and a SR3000 Rx, circa 2004 NOS. While not exactly era correct for a '97 RC10gt, it's as close to the era without running crystals, done with those things.

Seller's pics.


This RF module will go in this 3PJS from the late 90's, it has an (8) model memory, and then I'll get as many Rx's for it as I have vintage RC's.

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Thu Dec 14, 2023 2:40 pm Can't believe someone out there is making the specific, RC10gt box art decal sheet, so stoked. The seller sent me a nice email, letting me know he's in Canada and it could be a couple of weeks until the sheet gets here.

Ahh... the moment when the internet shows you exactly what you want... with a "Buy It Now" button next to it...

Here’s my Andy’s paint stickered out with MCI decals. Not sure where the spoiler ran of to. Also not sure what I’m going to do with it..

Dangeruss wrote: ↑Thu Dec 14, 2023 4:00 pm

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Thu Dec 14, 2023 2:40 pm Can't believe someone out there is making the specific, RC10gt box art decal sheet, so stoked. The seller sent me a nice email, letting me know he's in Canada and it could be a couple of weeks until the sheet gets here.

Ahh... the moment when the internet shows you exactly what you want... with a "Buy It Now" button next to it...

romulus22 wrote: ↑Thu Dec 14, 2023 4:34 pm Here’s my Andy’s paint stickered out with MCI decals. Not sure where the spoiler ran of to. Also not sure what I’m going to do with it..

11C2F1E8-11EE-456D-AB75-B10D7758A5C8.jpeg

Nice! Really glad to see you have the same decal sheet, now I know all's well. Thanks @romulus22!

Got the Spektrum DSM module. Removed the FM antenna and RF module.


Peeling the label wrapper off, completely NOS.


But then the Tx module would not go in bind mode. I started to worry I bought a broken one. Read the Spektrum Manual, and was instructed to put the 3PJS in PPM mode if it was in PCM mode.


PPM mode engaged, Spektrum Tx bind mode immediately started flashing green LED, it works!


Solid green LED on Tx and Rx, all's well.

Your welcome

RC10th wrote: ↑Thu Dec 14, 2023 6:52 pm Your welcome

Big thanks to @RC10th for the heads up on DSM modules, from this thread:
https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=48851 - was about to go with another FM 75Mhz RF module, and he talked some sense in to me.

Wrestled with the idea of the DSM module being from '04, and not '97, but quickly decided that trying to find matching multiple FM 75MHz Rx crystals, to match the single Tx channel, wasn't worth it.

I'm still running a Spektrum DX6i that I got with my Blade 400 in 2008, to this day, it also runs my slope gliders, love Spektrum, and DSM.

Here I am blowing out a tail rotor bearing indoors with the DX6i, 15 years ago!


I wonder if the SM1000, can run the SR3001 newer Rx, those are easier to find than the SR3000 Rx.

Thanks again @RC10th!

Cut new neoprene battery pack cushions, and mounted them.


#2 was missing a front bumper, and that's about all.




New SR3000 Rx going in #1.


Another SR3000 Rx will be here for #2 tomorrow, hopefully.








Getting so close to being done with both now.

Had to put #2's, 10e carb, in the oven to get it hot enough to remove the rotary slide, 300F for 20 minutes did the trick. It's slick as can be now. Problem solved.

Got the M2.5 cap bolt set today, with (1) M2.5 x 16, the red head went back on #2 engine with no problems, tight as can be. Stripped case problem solved.

Got the new recoil for #2 engine. The (4) screws it came with were a different thread pitch, would not work, ridiculous. But the one way bearing and pull start are mint now, with excellent compression.


The arrow is pointing to the missing/destroyed OSMG5642 Dust Cover: #2BK (soaked in 99% alcohol for too long, it disintegrated), a part that is back ordered and impossible to find, I looked for hours.

#1 Is ready to go though, will finish it first.

Waiting on parts still, in particular the engine mount bolts, there are (2) button head screws that are longer than any other in the kit, and are always the first to strip.

Amazon had a (6) pack of these ASC7633 screws, couldn't believe it. I'll need at least (4) of those, as #2 has those stripped also.

Ever since I got the RC cable making kit, I like making custom length servo/Rx wiring. #1 is nearly done, will shorten the Rx pack and switch also.


#1


#2 will get the same

I've been wondering why #1 has a servo saver on the servo itself, and #2 has the original bell crank servo saver that came with the kit, I found the same bell crank for #1 in my spare parts.


Was looking through eBay today and spotted this:


That's definitely what I found when cleaning #1.

Interesting too how #1 has the aluminum shock caps, #2 are plastic.

When I wasn't able to find the carb dust cover for the OS .12 CV, I found another complete OS .12 CV non-pull start motor, listed for sale with no compression - the seller took $40 with free shipping.

This CV looked way too new and clean in the seller's pics, to me, to have compression problems:




When I first tried, I could easily turn the shaft with bare fingers, and it felt like a gritty/dirt filled slip, with 0 compression.

The bottom end, crank/con-rod/piston/front bearing, are all like new in there:


When I pulled the head off, the sleeve came out with the head, stuck to it. Also noticed there was no shim/metal spacer between the head and the case?! Could the sleeve have come out of the case because there was no shim/spacer?


The sleeve itself looks like it's still in great condition, it's just out of the case somehow.


Got the engine all cleaned and ready to put the sleeve back in.



What holds the sleeve in the case? I've seen that you need a special tool to even remove the sleeve, so I can't figure out why the sleeve is out, and on such a new engine. How can I be sure the sleeve won't come out again, or how do you fix it in place?