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I decided to tear the truck down piece by piece, add my hop ups, and replace what's worn while I'm waiting for gears.

No more bushings left now


front suspension is good to go. 12mm Big bores and Pro line stiff red stripe springs.




Lot left to do. Rod ends, transmsission, new hubs and bearings in the rear...etc.

Top shaft and the spacer in the transmission has a lot of horizontal slop, trans grease was solidified, and the diff doesn't feel happy again. But at least the newer avid bearings inside are ok...



Placed another order with team associated.

Counter sunk the new battery tray screws.


Trued front foam buggy tires came from GONE BANANAS RACING SKINZ and built my 12mm big bore rear shocks with the lower set of Pro line's red heavy 12mm spring snd 50wt AE oil using 1.5 pistons (same as front just longer).

modification time...

Left rear GT2 arms with a 1/4 hub on the left of the photo, T4 rear right side arms with a 3/16 hub on the right of the photo


**INSTALLED**
T4 left rear RPM arm on the right, and T4 right rear RPM arm on the left. Both with GT2 1/4" hubs.


Rc10t4 uses the same inner hinge pin as the Rc10GT2. It uses a longer outer hinge pin with spacers. The GT2 outer axle hub can take 1/4" bearings and slips into the T4 rear arm with no spacers. A very little filing on the hub pin hole and I slipped some metal washers in there. The problem is the T4 shocks mount on the inside where the GT2 mounts on the outiside. The fix is simply to flip the T4 arm left to right!!! The result is a sway bar mount ball, wider rear wheel base, and a longer shock mounting position effectively lowering the rear of the chassis! For axles I plan to use the 1/4" GT CVD stubs and T4 MIP CVD shafts.

Looks like the OAL of a T4 CVD is not enough to make up the width gained by the arms. It is because the GT2 inner hinge pins, they mount wider then the T4 does. I could look for longer dogbones...buts it's not worth it. Moving on.

that's a pitty. Nice thinking though to put T4 arms on your car.
I was planning to do the same on my T3. But now I'm affraid I run into the same problem with the dogbone.

Yes that would have been a really worthwhile mod. I'm still considering hacking off the cup and bone and welding them onto a longer rod.


I rebuilt the car. It's been a very long weekend so I haven't had a chance to run it yet. I'm still waiting on my 42t gears to arrive, that's the very last part needed.

I'm gaining confidence, this thing is solid.




Installed a 7955tg HiTec servo


I suppose I'll start on a parts list.

Small piece of info. I removed the deans connectors and went to 4mm bullets from the ESC directly to the 4s saddles. I used 60/40 and pre dipped my 100w iron in rosin after preheating my 10 gauge wire and bullet. My voltage ripple went from 2.4v on the last run before the rebuild and rewire to .98 volts max ripple.

nice, dropped the resistance by over half. Means more voltage at the motor, less current drop=more power.

I'm feeling very confident! Come on gears!

Made you all some videos!
[youtube]GoZ54bNwOhQ[/youtube]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GoZ54bNwOhQ

[youtube]f0cqJb1Xurg[/youtube]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f0cqJb1Xurg






Got bored and decided to run it hard. She is doing great. So very satisfied so far.

the sound it makes is awsom !

32 pitch gears at 40,000 RPM

That's a lot of packaging for one tiny little gear lol



35/42, Fits great


I noticed a problem. I might need to heat treat the MIP's and swap left to right...these have ~10 minutes of run time on them on smooth asphalt!