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After many delays due to life getting in the way I finally have some progress to report. The correct Lunsford rods are now installed with all black cups. Also installed some Lunsford fat boy motor screws. The wheels are now restored and mounted to the tires so it's finally a roller. I'll be ordering the C cells soon so I can build my own pack. I hope to have it running with a temporary battery pack this coming weekend. It won't be long now! I also might hire a painter for the body when I get to that point in the build. Lots to think about.

Not bad for what started out as a pile of junk. Actually, all my builds start out as piles of junk now that I think about it.


Tempted to throw a VW body on it.


Thanks for the tip on the all black ball cups guys! The black really set it off.


The Paragon mod motor is ready to roar! I only gave it a light break in since it's just for fun. I'm not going to worry about tuning it or fretting over the brushes.






Hopefully it's running by the next update.

Looks fantastic now! Kudoz on a beautiful resto/mod. I VW bug body would look sweet on there, problem would be the long wheel base.

Hi Don,

Wow, the wheels and tires look really nice and the whole build is looking bloody good!

It's good to have friends helping you in the right direction,

the black rod ends look sweet by the way!

I was just reading a Futaba manual for a FP-2pb and on the last page it had a template to make a

antenna shortner.

I didn't realize you could make your own.

Cheers, Dave.

Looks awesome, I'm tempted to do a similar she'll on one of my cars.

Looks awesome. Nice and clean (Y)

Asso_man! wrote:Looks fantastic now! Kudoz on a beautiful resto/mod. I VW bug body would look sweet on there, problem would be the long wheel base.

Thanks man! I might have to try out the TBG VW shell that was made for the RC10T just for fun.

DaveM wrote:Hi Don,

Wow, the wheels and tires look really nice and the whole build is looking bloody good!

It's good to have friends helping you in the right direction,

the black rod ends look sweet by the way!

I was just reading a Futaba manual for a FP-2pb and on the last page it had a template to make a

antenna shortner.

I didn't realize you could make your own.

Cheers, Dave.

Thanks Dave, it most definitely helps to have friends giving me input on my builds. Very grateful that you guys spoke up on the black ball cups, it looks so much better now.

Most of the pan car guys ran the antenna shortner made from a piece of lexan or like the one LTO_Dave posted.

Johnboy72 wrote:Looks awesome, I'm tempted to do a similar she'll on one of my cars.

Always loved modifieds, I had the Bolink Cavalier body mounted on an Eliminator 10 back in the day. I'd been searching for it ever since I got back into rc cars, there's a guy on e-Bay with the other version of this body. He's got several listed so I might grab one too for my next build.

sandkil wrote:Looks awesome. Nice and clean (Y)

Thanks, I have a feeling this car is so clean it might only be for the shelf. I guess I'll have to run it a few times just to say I did. Now I have a good excuse to build another one for a dedicated runner.

Killer

Your build looks great...can you give me your secret on polishing....how did you get the outdrives looking so good?

Any advice would be great.

A++ build, Wonderful job, and imho, the black cups look better

Mwp1111 wrote:Your build looks great...can you give me your secret on polishing....how did you get the outdrives looking so good?

Any advice would be great.

Thanks! For polishing the outdrives I just gave them a preliminary sanding with 600 grit 3M auto body sand paper. Once I had all the rust and roughness cleaned I hit them with 1200 grit paper. I then polished them with Mothers chrome polish. For the blue I used Birchwood Casey Super gun blue applied with a paper towel. After that I soaked them with oil, if you don't soak blued parts with oil afterward they'll rust. Once I was happy with the blue I lightly buffed them out with paper towels. You can also use fine steel wool for deep polished blue. The more bluing you apply the darker it will get, some metals won't get dark in color no matter how much bluing you apply, the outdrives for example. For basic aluminum parts I use much the same technique. For example the nose brace tubes, I used 1200 fine grit paper and then polished them with Mothers chrome polish. Use paper towels for polishing and your parts will be much shinier than if you used a rag or cloth towel. The grit of paper I use depends on how rough the piece I'm starting out with is. Working with metal is basically like working with wood. Easy stuff.

Thanks for all the kind replies guys! Well it runs or ran enough for me to take it for a spin. Dum-dum (me ) failed to notice a loose motor screw and now I have to order a new spur gear. Also I might have more problems than that. Not sure if it's my antenna routing or a deeper issue, but I'm either getting major glitching or power issues. It almost seems like the car is stopping and starting. I've got some trouble shooting to do. First suspect, receiver antenna. I need to unravel it and try it with a normal mount. Second, I'm going to pull the motor and go through it again. Finally I'll look at the old T-4. I could easily put a 2.4ghz receiver and brushless in it but I want this car to be old school. For the time that it did run it handled quite well with my basic setup. I do think it could use some stiffer rear springs so I'll add that to my parts order. My 10L has a T-4 in it so I can do some testing by plugging the receive into that car. Seems like my projects always put up a fight near the end. No matter, I'll get it worked out.


The damage from the loose motor screw. Still can't believe I overlooked it. Starting to worry that the new screws may have been hitting the windings, can't say I checked them as I should have after the install. The motor had backed off just enough to start skipping over the teeth and started chewing up the spur. Guess I'll find out soon enough.




I should have my c-cells soon so I can finish off this part of the build. It looks the part, now I just need to work out the bugs.


I sealed the tire decals and also gave it a fairly tame oval set up. I'm running 1-degree positive caster on the left and 1-degree negative on the right. Hopefully I'll have good news to report next week.

PlastiZapCA+ wrote:

Mwp1111 wrote:Your build looks great...can you give me your secret on polishing....how did you get the outdrives looking so good?

Any advice would be great.

Thanks! For polishing the outdrives I just gave them a preliminary sanding with 600 grit 3M auto body sand paper. Once I had all the rust and roughness cleaned I hit them with 1200 grit paper. I then polished them with Mothers chrome polish. For the blue I used Birchwood Casey Super gun blue applied with a paper towel. After that I soaked them with oil, if you don't soak blued parts with oil afterward they'll rust. Once I was happy with the blue I lightly buffed them out with paper towels. You can also use fine steel wool for deep polished blue. The more bluing you apply the darker it will get, some metals won't get dark in color no matter how much bluing you apply, the outdrives for example. For basic aluminum parts I use much the same technique. For example the nose brace tubes, I used 1200 fine grit paper and then polished them with Mothers chrome polish. Use paper towels for polishing and your parts will be much shinier than if you used a rag or cloth towel. The grit of paper I use depends on how rough the piece I'm starting out with is. Working with metal is basically like working with wood. Easy stuff.

Thanks for the guidance....can't wait to start polishing:)