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this is a safe way to do it, place the transmission on it side with a nut centred on the shaft below, small a nut small enough to let the shaft in would be better. If you're by yourself you need to prop-up the transmission so it stays flat and then use a punch to slowly knock the shaft out.

That will work and won't damage anything.

RC

TM Ru22311 wrote:Darn! Any idea on how to get the shaft out (the right way)?

I see what you're saying. Placing the nut underneath will take the force off the gearbox. I was afraid of cracking the casing, but I gotcha Thanks Guys. That center gear was NOT easy to get off so hopefully it will go back on nice and tight, but yeah, it will be a shelf queen anyway.

yes when you put a small not at the bottom NOT a large one the force will transfer to just outside the shaft. Just take your time!



RC

TM Ru22311 wrote:I see what you're saying. Placing the nut underneath will take the force off the gearbox. I was afraid of cracking the casing, but I gotcha Thanks Guys. That center gear was NOT easy to get off so hopefully it will go back on nice and tight, but yeah, it will be a shelf queen anyway.

I got it out. Looks like it was burred up a little where the set screw on the pinion slipped. There is a notch, so not sure what happened there but I got it all smoothed out and the center gear is back on snug I don't see a way to get the gears on the bottom out and not sure if I want to. I could just put some de-greaser inside, rinse and re-grease it.

There are set screws on each side of the main gear that tighten down on the outdrives. Loosen those two set screws and pull the outdrives out and the gear will come right out.

Thanks guys, I managed to get all the gears out. Not knowing how these were assembled (and considering the age) makes it difficult to do the first time. Now I can get everything cleaned up and ready for re-assembly, but I still have to remove the old bearings since I have a new set on the way. I was given some great advise on how to do this carefully so I am just going to take my time and do it cautiously (Thanks Ronit). I would have never got this far without all the help I have been given here from you guys, So I want you all to know that I really appreciate the help.

Do any of you guys have a link or two on how to remove these bearings from the gearbox? I just don't want to damage it in any way doing something stupid, they seemed to be pressed in fairly tight!


Thank you Mike and Terry!

I have to say I am a little disappointed with the RCScrewz kit I ordered The screws look nice and shiny, but there are a lot that don't even look like anything I need. One thing I noticed immediately was that the (2) 2.3 x 12 flathead screws were not included. These go through the frame and steering servo plate into the supports. I broke one while disassembling and thought the kit would include new ones. That is the only flathead screws in the manual, but the frame is tapered for them.

I also have to run out and get a metric ruler to identify these screws as nothing was labeled (or separated for that matter). I can't believe I don't have a single thing in the house for metrics! LoL why didn't the U.S. adopt that again?

EDIT: Could anyone verify if the Scorpion uses those flathead screws. I just realized I had to order the Scorpion kit as they didn't have one available for the Tomahawk. May be why they weren't included

No it doesn't. Scorpion has a plastic tub holding everything and that is attached to the frame from the top.

Yeah, I was looking through the manual online and seen that. That also explains all the extra screws I have, lol. I like the looks of the Scorpion better having the little roof above the roll cage. Also, the wing looks awesome too. That is a screw I may have to order. I don't thing the local hardware shop/Lowes/Home Depot would have something like that.

Does anyone know the exact sizes of those? I am confused looking in the manual. What is the little circle with a line through it? Does that mean it is a slotted screw?
Now a days they are listed like: M2 x .3 x 12mm (Is this correct) or M2.3 x 12mm?

Yes I just ordered some from the US M2.3 x 12 they were hard to find, the strange thing is that the rails are the same. The reason you need 2.3 and not 2.5 is because the short aluminium pieces that hold up the servo tray use them.

The stupid thing is when you build a scorpion and screw the tub down to the rails you use 2.5 but when going the other way you use 2.3 it seems stupid.

That's why I ordered 100 of them, they are hard to find if your tomahawk didn't come with them or you get a Kyosho Screw kit.

RC


[quote="TM Ru22311"]Does anyone know the exact sizes of those? I am confused looking in the manual. What is the little circle with a line through it? Does that mean it is a slotted screw?
Now a days they are listed like: M2 x .3 x 12mm (Is this correct) or M2.3 x 12mm?

Would you have a link to them? Although I would only want about 2 or 4 and most of those places that sell hardware require a minimum purchase. I have looked all over and came up with nothing. You can find M2.5 x 12mm everywhere from online hobby shops , but haven't seen the ones I need Come to think of it. that 1 screw was the only one that broke during disassembly, everything else was pretty easy going Figures

Just so you know I wanted to get them to test them before I tell people they work but here is the link.


http://www.mrmetric.com/metric-fasteners/Steel-Grade-4-8-Zinc-Metric-Flat-Head-Screw/M30412.html?whence=


RC

TM Ru22311 wrote:Would you have a link to them? Although I would only want about 2 or 4 and most of those places that sell hardware require a minimum purchase. I have looked all over and came up with nothing. You can find M2.5 x 12mm everywhere from online hobby shops , but haven't seen the ones I need Come to think of it. that 1 screw was the only one that broke during disassembly, everything else was pretty easy going Figures

Thanks RC, are you saying you have not got them yet to test them?