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fredswain wrote:Your pin also looks nice and thick

Why thank you! Lol

Ill shoot some measurements later. I tool the machinist a drawing done in google sketch up with dimensions and made the mistake of taking my dad with me. My dad had some ideas to make things simpler. While I like the new design I was really wanting to try the clamping setup. I get no wobble here so it's all good and shaved of several hours of labor lol. I need to work on a better router mount now, it just has too much flex still

A suspension arm has too much flex? What was that like on the car???

No the router mount has too much flex. I need one of those fancy holders you milling guys use to hold it stationary

The pin is 1/2" diameter and the material is 1"x1"

I think I've got it done. I just ordered some G10 so when it gets here we'll find out how well it works or doesn't work. My pin solution isn't as elegant as yours but didn't require any machining so we'll see what happens.

Incidentally I was going to order from eplastics.com since their prices looked good. However it's quite deceiving bordering on dishonest. I started to place an order for a single .125" x 12" x 12" piece which was priced at $13.58 ea. Shipping was a real eye opener. They wanted $20 in shipping! They state that their shipping and handling charges are high because of the amount of care in packaging they get. I appreciate good care so I figured that since they already put so much effort into packaging one piece up nicely that I should just buy two since it can go in the same box with no more effort. To my alarm they wanted an additional $9 in shipping and handling for a total of $29 in s/h charges. Needless to say I didn't proceed with the order and went to McMaster instead.

Shipping killed it for me too. Another member said they used their own shipping and all was great. I may try that with my FedEx account next time.

Well it's up and running. Sort of. There is some learning to do and some tweaking. The first part I tried messed up. I forgot to secure the arm from raising and the pin rose up. Needless to say that one came out a bit off! The second part was this one, a JRX-Pro rear shock tower. It isn't perfect. I may need to try a couple of different cutters since this one jumped a little bit. I also have to learn how fast to go as there were parts where I tried to go a bit too fast. The part that took the longest was drilling the holes on the drill press. I left this tower solid on the top half since I plan to drill holes for B4 rear wing mounts. Anyways, the fun has begun. Now it's time to get all the little things adjusted.

Yup it's all learning and tweaking now good start!

I think the parts would come out better and wouldn't require nearly as much pressure if I cut out around the part first with a jig saw or bandsaw. When routing wood parts I always cut the piece out just outside the template line so the bit didn't have to remove very much. The cuts went far faster and were smoother. By relying on the bit to do all of the cutting, it has to cut twice as much material which requires more pressure. The bit also wears out faster. That added pressure is likely to bend the pin easier. I have an old pedestal mounted jig saw. It looks a lot like a bandsaw but it isn't handheld. I'm going to start cutting as close to the master piece that I can before using the router so the router has as little work to do as possible.

It occurred to me last night that I can really have some fun. I'm going to cut out another JRX-Pro rear shock tower but drill it for an RC10 bulkhead. RC10-Pro anyone?

fredswain wrote:I plan to drill holes for B4 rear wing mounts.

I was just looking at my JRX Pro rear tower trying to think of how I could do that...

I need to make space in my cluttered garage and build one of these myself.

fredswain wrote: I'm going to start cutting as close to the master piece that I can before using the router so the router has as little work to do as possible.

That's why I've been revamping mine so much, to avoid that extra step. Same with using the arm to allow the pin to lift, it was taking a long time to cut out any internal holes. I've got mine now to where I can buzz right thru the material without having to stop. Make sure your using good bits, the first bits I tried were crap, these came from the circuit board industry and were sold as used- they use them for however many cuts and sell them off. I wish I could remember where I got them as they work great and were not all that expensive.

I do take an old piece of material and I have a template with a perfect hole in it, I buzz the hole and then measure the diameter. If it is any different than my master I'm tracing i know my alignment is slightly off

I need to get a vacuum system on it. I've had material build up under the part pushing it up slightly throwing the cut off a little.

The best piece of advice I can give is to wear a respirator. I do. Even with a vacuum system there will still be some dust and you do not want to breathe it!

Here are my RC10 "pro" style shock towers since the rear is a hybrid of a JRX-Pro tower and an RC10 tower. I actually messed up the rear. I was going to drill holes for B4 rear wing mounts but instead did it like the stock RC10 rear tower. I'm going to use this one on a friend's RC10 anyways since he runs a wing with the stock tubes. The front tower is a world's car front tower that I made taller. Each piece gets a little nicer but I'm still not satisfied yet. I need to try some different bits.

Your getting there it's all practice and refining techniques. And lots of wasted g10! Lol

there is a front shocktower behind all those spring clips

J/K...its just me being jealous of your guy's time and ambition

Does look good though...just waiting for GoMachV to finish his up so he can box it up and send it to me

Todd

I'm still trying to see how that benefits me