GodSpeed wrote:If I wanted a Reedy Sonic 540 Mach 2 13.5T or LRP X20 BL Modified 13.5T, what are some examples of ESC's I should be looking at and are there some additional components I NEED or should have as well? Honestly, I've chosen those two because they "look good." I know nothing.
Whatever ESC you get, make sure it is sensored. Some ESCs are sensorless, meaning they don't use a sensor board built into the motor to tell it where the rotor is in the can. A sensored ESC uses an extra cable to know what the motor is doing and gives you smoother power delivery and better control.
Personally for me with ESCs it's Hobbywing Xerun for everything. Their top of the range models are as good as anything out there, they still sell last years model as their current mid range ESCs and not much to compare with for value at the bottom end. With only one or two exceptions everyone at my club either runs a Hobbywing or a Speed Passion Reventon.
Batteries, again just about everyone around here will use Turnigy Nanotech batteries from Hobbyking. A fraction of the cost of ROAR approved packs and just as powerful and reliable.
Servos, well there's a huge choice. I don't run one make, I run just about every type out there. Alturn seems to be getting popular around here, good value compared to the big names.
Most people here use stick radios so we have a limited choice at the budget end, but everyone I know would trust a Flysky over a Spektrum every time.
I like the "look" of those Tekin units....not that that really matters I guess.
RC104ever is very local to me so I might be stopping by his place to look at what he's got. The Castle Mamba Max he recommends, by comparison, seems to have amazing specs but it looks like a bit of a hokey dokey unit. Weird.
From Tekin, what would be the most suitable:
- RSX
- RS SPEC
- RS Series
- R1 Series
I'll talk with RC104ever and pick his brain about Castle, Hobbywing and Tekin. Thanks guys.
I've looked quickly online at Novak, Viper, Reedy but I really need to talk with someone.
GodSpeed wrote:If I wanted a Reedy Sonic 540 Mach 2 13.5T or LRP X20 BL Modified 13.5T, what are some examples of ESC's I should be looking at and are there some additional components I NEED or should have as well? Honestly, I've chosen those two because they "look good." I know nothing.
Whatever ESC you get, make sure it is sensored.Some ESCs are sensorless, meaning they don't use a sensor board built into the motor to tell it where the rotor is in the can. A sensored ESC uses an extra cable to know what the motor is doing and gives you smoother power delivery and better control.
Personally for me with ESCs it's Hobbywing Xerun for everything. Their top of the range models are as good as anything out there, they still sell last years model as their current mid range ESCs and not much to compare with for value at the bottom end. With only one or two exceptions everyone at my club either runs a Hobbywing or a Speed Passion Reventon.
Batteries, again just about everyone around here will use Turnigy Nanotech batteries from Hobbyking. A fraction of the cost of ROAR approved packs and just as powerful and reliable.
Servos, well there's a huge choice. I don't run one make, I run just about every type out there. Alturn seems to be getting popular around here, good value compared to the big names.
Most people here use stick radios so we have a limited choice at the budget end, but everyone I know would trust a Flysky over a Spektrum every time.
Aha, good tip. Thanks for the rest of the info too.
the tekins has a nice small foot print, they'll fit in all kinds of tight spaces. the hobbywings are a bit larger, same with the novaks.
i haven't seen the newest novaks, maybe they are smaller. not too many novak guys at our track.
the tekin rs would be fine for everything that's 8.5t or slower. i really like that esc. i also have a old rs pro (replaced by rsx i think).
that will be a little taller.
FYI, since Tekin has released the "Gen 2" esc's, a lot of our local racers are dumping their "Gen 1" Tekins for pretty cheap. I picked up 2 Gen 1 RS's speedos for cheap. One is in my RC10 re-CE and the other in the JRX2...Love 'em.
--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
I'm getting close to finishing mine. I need to rebuild the slipper and just figure out batteries.
I'd go the straight down the middle route but I noticed that the holes are not in line with the rear bulkhead and are not countersunk. It's a AB chassis that is predrilled for the stealth so I assume it was made for the side to side battery configuration
I planned on using saddles, then someone suggested a shorty. So I installed two cups going sideways thinking that would work well for a shorty. from cup end to cup end it is roughly 120mm +/- a couple. From strap to strap its about 90mm. Most shorties are 95mm.
So my question is, does anyone know of a shorter lipo that would fit 120mm? Should I go with the shorty and use a spacer with that?
I am going to experiment with the SC10 and B44.2 saddle cradles.
I finally received all my parts....well, everything except the outdrive bearings which were missing from the order. I'll post pictures in my other thread.
Back to ESC's, I looked into the Tekin's a little more and noticed for their Hotwire software you need to be running Android or Windows (or "try" using Bootcamp or Parallels for Mac). Ummm, no thanks, I won't by "trying" anything as I only have Mac/Apple.
I'm finally narrowing down my selections on updating my old electronics. Here's what I'm thinking, but still need recommendations:
Motor: Reedy Sonic 540 Mach 2 13.5T or LRP X20 Stock Spec 13.5T --- local hobby shops seem to be quoting around $100 so I'm not sure I can beat that with exchange and shipping (to Canada) from places online
ESC: Hobbywing Xerun 90a V2.1 with Multifunction LCD Program Box --- rcecho.com seems to be the cheapest place I can find this. Local hobby shops don't have connections with Hobbywing ("yet" they say)
Transmitter/Receiver: Flysky GT3C --- again from rcecho.com seems to be the cheapest. No one local (or anywhere in Canada for that matter) seems to have Flysky. I like the idea of the GT3C based on recommendations here on the GT3B but the 'C' has LiPo power
Servo: local hobby shop is recommending HiTech. Could you advise on a specific model? I've checked their site and there's a lot of choices but no explanations on what is suitable for particular applications.
Battery: 2S LiPo but need recommendations on brands and power ratings
Been a while since an update on this thread, so I thought I'd add my experience.
I started with an RC10DS with an AM radio, MSC, Brushed motor & very old battery & charger. It had been 10+ years since I bought anything for my car, so everything was very outdated.
My first step was the battery. I wanted to go LiPo & would need a new charger to do so. The new charger (HiTech X1+) will charge LiPo and NiCad/NiMH batteries, and Lead-Acid (car/motorcycle) batteries all-in-one. It is actually a GREAT motorcycle charger, very compact and includes AC + DC inputs. (~$60)
The battery is a Traxxas 4000mAh LiPo 2C battery. This was the only battery the shop had in-stock that would reasonably fit my previous NiCad battery tray. I did have to cut the front bucket to accommodate the wiring at the front of the LiPo battery. (~$40)
To run a LiPo battery without destroying it, you will need a modern ESC that will stop before the battery runs completely dead. I was not tied to the old MSC by any means, so this was not a big deal. But...a new ESC should be able to run a brushless motor. If you are prepared to run a brushless motor, choose an ESC that will accommodate a motor with sensors (mentioned previously). If you want to continue running a brushed motor, you will need an ESC that can run either mode. I chose to stick with my original brushed motor and a CastleCreations Sidewinder3 ESC. (~$50)
To connect the new ESC to the new battery, you will need the appropriate connections. (~$20) In my case, going with a Traxxas battery set the stage for Traxxas connectors. These are, in a word, "horsepucky!" The connector itself is a flat blade that has to be soldered onto the ESC inputs. This could - EASILY - be a solder cup for new hobbyists, but Traxxas only gives you the flat blade. Since this is a high-current connection, the solder joint must be very solid. For me, an experienced soldering tech, this was made ever-more difficult by an insufficient soldering iron. I replaced my 40W gun with a 150W gun and it worked OK, but I am still not happy with the results. To a newcomer, I'd probably start with a different brand connector. (Despite my eventual success, I have plans to replace these connectors with high-current AMP industrial connectors at some point later on).
If you are planning on replacing your motor with a new, high power/high torque brushless motor, you may have issues with your existing diff. I started with an RC10DS with a Stealth transmission. This is a very standard unit with a wide selection of gears and upgrade parts available for future upgrades. Familiarize yourself with your vintage parts before choosing something that will destroy them.
For me, wheels & tires are an issue. My RC10DS uses non-standard wheels, so I can either plan on driving very carefully, or plan on replacing them with modern equivalents. OR...plan on searching for new tires periodically. I am NOT planning on driving carefully, rather planning to update my car to new suspension pieces in order to use new hardware. This was an unexpected update when I started, so please be aware of similar issues if you are going to update your vintage RC.
I despise those traxxas connectors. A lot of people like the "Deans" connectors, but I prefer the anderson powerpole connectors- they can be soldered or crimped and are pretty foolproof.
Man, I wish I had found this thread earlier rather than taking the advise of the 16yo working at the LHS to help modernize my 20 yo buggy. This would have saved me time and money. Anyhow, I have pretty much replaced everything except the 6 gear transmission, dog bones, arm mounts, and bulkheads. I also noticed the differential acting up with the faster motors. I just installed a RevTech 17.5 T 3000 kV motor and I think I'll be drilling my chassis to accept a Stealth transmission. New parts included:
Spektrum DX4C radio
Spektrum 4210 receiver (with AVC, amazing tech; it's like cheating)
Reedy 2s shorty lipo (I didn't use connectors, solder wires to bullet plugs that plug into battery)
Hobbywing Juststock Club ESC
RevTech 17.5T brushless
RPM rear and front arms
AE V2 shock kit
AE green springs
RC Carbon Works front and rear towers and transmission brace
AE front and rear modern axle upgrades
AE RC10 classic 2.2 wheels
AE B4 wing mounts
KP 42 pitch 81T spur
TLR aluminum 42 pitch 19T pinion
JConcepts bell cranks
Lunsford turnbuckles
RPM ball cups
Drilled new holes to move battery holder back to fit shorty packs
A sensored esc, from what I've experienced, only helps out at low RPM. Sensorless esc's tend to stutter at low rpm's. In the mid to high range, where you'll spend most of your time driving, a sensorless setup runs just fine.
People are surprised when they find out I'm running a Castle sensorless setup in my RC10, when I drive at the track. Runs perfectly fine, unless I'm peddling along at very low rpm's.
For the front wheel conversion, do i use the normal Flanged bearings that the original front wheels use? or the slightly larger ones? and do i use the flanged bearings at all?
Newly Rebuild Edinger RC10
B4.2, B5M Factory Lite, B44.3, And RC10 Graphite w/ Stealth trans.
LRP Esc, Reedy M3 17.5, MCG Reaper 7.5, Savox, Blue Bird.
Onyx Charger.
Favorite Tire: JC Blue Dirtwebs, and maaaybe Pro-line Primes.
