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CYANide in Offroad Trim

Posted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 3:46 am
by Coelacanth
After a month of waiting, I finally received a brand-new upper chain guide from fireboy on eBay, and was finally able to finish the upper deck/basic rolling chassis assembly. Here's how the offroad wheels & tires look. I also swapped out the rear 62.5mm CVDs for 60.5mm units. The rear end & on-road tires look a tad better now, with a little less of the rear tires sticking out from the wheel-wells. 8)

Re: New Optima Build: Project CYANide

Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 4:59 am
by walfre
Brilliant work!
When will it see the track?

Re: New Optima Build: Project CYANide

Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 2:07 pm
by Coelacanth
walfre wrote:Brilliant work!
When will it see the track?
The delay I'm dealing with now is finding 2mm threaded rod to make the connecting rod for the steering servo. I originally wanted to use 3mm rod, 4.8mm balls and ball-cups, but the ball-cup mounted on an aluminum servo horn would stick out too much and rub either the servo or the oval slot in the upper deck, either way it's mounted. I installed 4.8mm ball cups but I'll have to stick with the stock ball ends to avoid rubbing. I also wanted to avoid using the usual L-angle bend at the servo horn by using a ball-stud there.

The problem is I can't find 2mm threaded rod anywhere in town! One hobby store had rods but only the outside 1" on one end was threaded, not the whole rod. :?

Re: New Optima Build: Project CYANide

Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 2:20 pm
by walfre
There's plenty at my local hardware store. In sweden. It's pretty cheap too. How much do you need?

Re: New Optima Build: Project CYANide

Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 3:51 pm
by Coelacanth
walfre wrote:There's plenty at my local hardware store. In sweden. It's pretty cheap too. How much do you need?
I tried 3 different hardware stores here and about the smallest threaded rod I could find was 1/4"--which is way too big. 6" of it would be more than enough. Let me make a few more calls, there's a nut & bolt store near my work that I'll be checking soon.

EDIT: This is starting to piss me off. The other day, I went to Canadian Tire (kind of like a Canadian version of Wal-Mart) trying to find metric drill bits. Would you believe they didn't have a *(&$%(*$ SINGLE set of metric bits?? This is Canada, a metric country, and a Canadian franchise--that doesn't sell metric drill bits! WTF?? Finding a piece of metric threaded rod is like finding a needle in a haystack, it would seem! :evil:

Re: New Optima Build: Project CYANide

Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 6:08 pm
by Hcp22
Coelacanth wrote:
walfre wrote:There's plenty at my local hardware store. In sweden. It's pretty cheap too. How much do you need?
I tried 3 different hardware stores here and about the smallest threaded rod I could find was 1/4"--which is way too big. 6" of it would be more than enough. Let me make a few more calls, there's a nut & bolt store near my work that I'll be checking soon.

EDIT: This is starting to piss me off. The other day, I went to Canadian Tire (kind of like a Canadian version of Wal-Mart) trying to find metric drill bits. Would you believe they didn't have a *(&$%(*$ SINGLE set of metric bits?? This is Canada, a metric country, and a Canadian franchise--that doesn't sell metric drill bits! WTF?? Finding a piece of metric threaded rod is like finding a needle in a haystack, it would seem! :evil:
Then I can recommend this web-shop in Scotland, wary affordable prices, and have PayPal to! :shock: :D
http://www.engineeringsupplies.co.uk/index.php

Re: New Optima Build: Project CYANide

Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 6:37 pm
by Coelacanth
Thanks Hcp22, I already bought some on eBay...it just annoys me that a Canadian store in a metric country doesn't stock metric drill bits.

Detailing

Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 2:45 am
by Coelacanth
I haven't made much progress since I'm figuring out what to do for my steering servo linkage. Because 4.8mm ball cups are too tall when used with an Integy blue alloy servo horn & the stock servo saver, the only ball-ends that would work are the stock skinny ones that thread onto 2mm rods. Those were just plain crappy, and I didn't want to use a sloppy L-angle in the horn--it wouldn't fit, anyway. I want to use a 3mm turnbuckle. I might have a solution, but we'll have to wait another week or two to see how/if it'll work.

In the meantime, I cut some dust covers from spare Lexan. I wanted something to limit dust but not be as messy-looking as a silicone caulk-job. I think this will work pretty good, and it's easily removable.

I also installed an antenna mount that's supposed to prevent the antenna tube from bending during roll-overs. It looks nice and has a blue aluminum cap on the top (more on that when I have the receiver installed).

The last thing I did was install the rear stabilizer with some nice Tamiya blue alloy balls/chrome set screws. Now back to waiting... :?

Re: New Optima Build: Project CYANide

Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 4:57 pm
by madmaxx
all i have to say is.... AWESOME!!!!!!

Re: Detailing

Posted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 10:47 pm
by esaresky75
Coelacanth wrote:I also installed an antenna mount that's supposed to prevent the antenna tube from bending during roll-overs.

Waiting for more info on this antenna mount....

Re: New Optima Build: Project CYANide

Posted: Sat Mar 05, 2011 9:45 am
by emerson_shih
Wow, what a great job! 8)

Re: Detailing

Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 11:43 am
by Coelacanth
esaresky75 wrote:
Coelacanth wrote:I also installed an antenna mount that's supposed to prevent the antenna tube from bending during roll-overs.
Waiting for more info on this antenna mount....
Thanks for the comments! Here's one on eBay exactly like the one I used:

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Blue-Spring-Antenna-Tube-/160490564698?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item255dfbac5a

Unfortunately, the eBay picture isn't as easy-to-understand as mine. :) I basically just used the Optima's existing antenna hole to run through the antenna tube, and drilled a 3mm hole through the upper aluminum deck, stopping when it went through the aluminum plate. I then used a smaller bit and drilled into the nylon W-shaped chain guide separator piece/antenna mount. I then used a 3mm flat-head screw to bolt the spring mount into the deck/W-piece.

The opposite end has an aluminum cap that you screw onto the top of the spring after running the antenna wire through it.

Re: New Optima Build: Project CYANide

Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 12:49 pm
by Coelacanth
No update pics today, but the last few free evenings I've spent working on the 'Cuda body and fitment. I'll say one thing, by having separate pieces to cut out and fit for the rear deck spoiler and rear bumper/valance, this sure adds to the complexity! Even when I cut exactly along the lines, the 2 extra pieces did not fit as perfectly as I'd hoped--in places, it wasn't even close! But several hours alternating between Dremel grinding, sanding, and test-fitting, I must say things are looking very nice.

I thought I'd wait until painting was finished before posting new pictures, as I've already posted clear body shots and more of the same would just be boring. 8)

Electronics installed

Posted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 6:00 pm
by Coelacanth
I finally got all the electronics installed. I wanted to use an AE blue titanium turnbuckle as the steering rod but since it was 4-40 thread and therefore too big for the stock ball-ends--which I didn't want to use anyway because they're too wimpy and wear out too quickly--I had to re-think what I wanted to do. I decided to go with 4.8mm Delrin ball-ends with 3mm thread holes, that way the steering rod could mount to the 4.8mm balls installed in the servo horn & steering assembly. Those Delrin ball-ends snapped on nice and tight, they're smooth as silk, and there's no slop whatsoever...and steering adjustments should be easier with the turnbuckle. 8)

I also swapped the 4.8mm ball-cups initially installed on the tops of the sway bar links with the Delrin ball-ends so that the sway bar rod could move freely in and out of the ball-end holes and be adjustable.

I installed a Castle Sidewinder ESC, Futaba S3003 steering servo and small receiver, cutting off excess wiring. I'm anxious to power up this bad-boy and see how the steering works; perhaps because of the shorter control arms, the servo needs much less than half of it's trim range to go from full-left to full-right. Maybe not much over 45 degrees.

As far as a motor goes, I want to run something brushless but I'm not sure what power I should go with. I was thinking 13.5T at first but now I'm not so sure. I don't want it to be so fast it's uncontrollable! Maybe a 17T or so? What do you guys recommend?

Re: New Optima Build: Project CYANide

Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2011 3:39 pm
by EvolutionRevolution
You should have used an LRP ESC, purely because they're blue! :lol:

13.5 or 17.5 turns should be okay.