RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Put a strip of felt on the lower inside of the body and the paint will stay clean on the sides of the chassis.

after you cut that hole you shouldnt have to shim anyhting cause the trans will set almost perfect , but a builder friend of mine has already put a 240 trans in a dual sport, it turned out really nice, and he even used the stock bulkhead and shock tower, but as far as shimming the rear arm mounts,you shouldnt have to.

I ended up running without the shims. I would have to cut more of the bulkhead to fit the arm mount with the shim so I went without the shim. I got lucky and everything worked.

I received my LiPo battery tonight. Venom 7.4 40c 2S 5000 mAh
Most Rc-10s I see with LiPos use a battery brace length wise. Would you guys recommend this? I

was looking at adapting a RC-10B4 battery brace.

Thanks,

ED

Well this car just keeps getting small improvements. I won an A&L steering setup at the VONATS, and tonight on the way home I picked up a 96mm Losi 60c 3800mAh.
ED

I'm telling you, if your car feels loose at RCE it's because of the heavy springs that your using, the suspension is too stiff.

Try:
Front -- 35wt w/ #2 piston -- Green Springs
Rear -- 30wt w/ #1 piston -- Green Springs

or

Front -- 32.5 wt instead of 35wt
Rear -- 27.5 wt instead of 30wt

I've raced my cars with the same set up at both RCE and RCHR and they work great, tires are the biggest difference between the two tracks....if you need help let me know, we'll be in the same E main at the JC race....

Thanks, I will put on a set of green before going back.

For the Gobbler race at RCE I ran green spring during practice, used some old collars to adjust the ride hight, move the front shocks to the outer hole on the a-arm and moved my rear shocks in.

I spent most of the day Friday doing small tweaks, then shaved down the front arms to allow more steering. The car was really starting to handle.


Well Sunday before the race I went out for a couple more practice laps, when I noticed my wing was flopping around. I though I just lost a body clip, but it was much worse. My shock tower broke and I did not have a spare. They refunded my 2wd mod buggy fee ($15.00).

Last night I won a new set of shock towers for 10.50.

So now to my actual question, will the A&L Chassis stiffener work with the factory battery cups? I have a shorty LiPo and need to run 2 battery cups. See above picture.


I will be buying the A&L aluminium wing mounts, so I figured if the stiffeners would work, I might get those at the same time.


Maybe my next race update, will include a story about how I was able to keep up with the B4s and 22s in race trim.


Thanks,
ED

Sonic-

This car is really coming along. I love that you are racing it!

Jeep-Power wrote:Sonic-

This car is really coming along. I love that you are racing it!

Thanks! I plan to have an update soon after installing the A&L stiffeners.

The B4 wing mounts destroyed my shock tower, so I came up with a new way to mount the wing using A&L wing mounts and a SC10 body mount.
I hope this is my last wing mount method.

Im unsure if you know this but the b4 layshaft and layshaft gear is a direct replacement with zero changes needed to the B3 gearbox so means you can use the b4 slipper clutch and that means you can use a more powerful motor.

Kyosho Fan2 wrote:Im unsure if you know this but the b4 layshaft and layshaft gear is a direct replacement with zero changes needed to the B3 gearbox so means you can use the b4 slipper clutch and that means you can use a more powerful motor.

Thanks for the information, but I have replaced the B3 transmission with a RPM RC10T 2:65. Thought about pressing the gear off the top shaft of the RPM trans though.

Comparison between B4 and RC-10 width.




Please note the below picture was taken before installing bigjeepzz rear arms.

Just reading up on your car. Looks good and glad to hear you are getting it dialed in.

Hope the arms are working well for you.

Jake