RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

wyldbill wrote:hey scr8p, didnt the klein sprint cars use the losi/custom works hub carriers when they were using these arms? im not quite sure which ones they used because i've seen both the b4 and the losi ones used on local racers. wouldnt that take care of the problem, mabey?

i don't know for sure. i've never seen a klein sprint, or a converted gt in person. i'm using the losi hubs on my car that i'm using this setup on, but i haven't gotten the b4 cvd's yet to put it all together. the only thing i can see different between the rpm and losi hubs are that the losi hubs use a plain bearing, but so do the standard truck hubs. could that help with the issue of the cvd binding in the outdrive? i don't know. without all of the bits and pieces in front of me, it's pure speculation.

Another thing you can check if/when you try this again is your rear link. One of the changes I made to my runner was to lengthen the rear link and connect it to the bulkhead where the inside joint is fairly even with the “ball” of the bone (I actually attached them to the end of a screw I ran long through the lower shock tower mount hole). This setup is similar to the B4 where the rear link is more parallel to the bone and the camber stays consistent throughout the arm travel. With the shorter lengths, negative camber increases as the arm travels up and this can push the bone deeper into the out drive.

It’s late - I hope this makes sense.

Finally back from the business trip from He!!, so I thought I’d add a photo to help explain my late-night babbling above. With the link in this position, the end of the bone stays right where you see it no matter where the arm travels. The inside of the link is mounted using a FT shock end fastened through the lower shock tower holes. There's about -3 degrees of camber in it at the moment.

The Klien cars used the standard 1/4" rear hub carrier with 3/16" bearings--the hot losi 2038
hub that we always used had a more outward offset than the AE hub, pop on a set of 2038's
or the newer losi xxx hub and you wont have any problems--as a last resort you can use
b2 axels with the b4 bone (they also have a different offset) and that should get you the
clearance you need

Thanks for the additional info, reghammer! I think Asso_man was able to work through his binding issue, but it’s great to have other parts options.

I’m not familiar with the Losi stuff – do all of the currently-available XXX hubs have the same offset as that of the #2038?

You know, I tried the B2/T2 axles during the early part of this project, but they didn’t work with the hubs I was using and the B4 wheels. I don’t recall there being a difference between the B2 and B4 axles in the distance from the CVD pivot to the shoulder (where the axle contacts the inner bearing), just from the shoulder to the axle pin and the length. Those axles may be the perfect choice for the Losi hubs, though…

the xxx-cr hub has the same offset as the 2038

I thought I’d revisit the modified B4 hub setup, so I threw them back on the shelfer. They actually work pretty well. This configuration doesn’t provide the lower CG that my runner setup has with the RPM hubs, but it’s a nice setup with no binding and a width at the axle tips of right at 9.75”.



CVD with shock extended


CVD with shock fully compressed

the losi 2038's have the 2 hole option for the hinge pin and when placed in the bottom hole it raises the axle to almost the same height as the tranny outdrive. this is what gives them the anti-teloscopic effect so when the suspension is compressed the bone dosent get pushed in any further, this also reduces outdrive wear. since stock ae carriers have the axle lower and closer to the arm it tends to move inward when compressed.

It looks like I'm not going to get to the track for a while, but I promised some action shots, so here ya go.

Enjoy.

Definitely the most exciting RC10 project I've seen in a long, long time. Not that there's a lack of exciting projects going on, but seeing something this ambitious and original is really inspiring. Very nice work.

I have said it before and I will say it again.... I really like those wheels. I am going to have to get me some. Looks great!

Hot, very nice car. take it to the track.

AEIOU I was wondering what else you have in the front. my buggy doesn't look like that I have the alu nose braces lik eyou but they go to the front of the chassis.
I do have the arms ,rear hubs and steering on the way. what else do i need for the conversion?
Also i see you have a different tranny than the stealth why? & whats the difference? thanks

Def. gives me something to shoot for with MY buggy.

Im running into the same similar issue of the B3 CVDs cogging on one side of the diff outdrive. I haven't played alot with the rear hubs yet, but i was going to experiment with different ones to see what would give me the best setup while still keeping it Vintage.

I don't know what allowences my LHS will have for my vintage. So far i think im the most serious when it comes to building a competitve car. Im also re-thinking a wheel/tire setup.

Im getting a b4 to use as a roller for cheap ($80) and I toyed with using the rear end and making it work for my current vintage. I need some time at the bench to experiiment more. The OTHER factor is that im using the "Wide track" RPM arms and NOT the worlds arms.

Looks sick, def. an inspirational task.


MOmo

how did you use the t3 b3 slipper on the rpm conversion? i thought it took a stock stealth slipper?
also where can i get the parts to rebuild the stock slipper for my shelf buggy and truck