I went for the recommended electronics for my last 2 re-res, admittedly Kyosho got me with the shiny object - but I use it in 2 cars... I wouldn't overpay again for this one; it's going to be a runner for sure..The local track has faux-dirt, which is nice when u don't want to clean your car too much, but the traction situation is definitely different than good 'ole dirt I'm more accustomed to. I went with straight knobbiest last time & I liked it better than the stock tires (on my Turbo Optima) .. but I expect the shock oil weight to be the adjustment I mess with the most since my Turbo got beat up pretty good on the jumps last time out. It sounds like the slipper pad isn't something to think about much unless I run into that scenario, so I appreciate the explanation... and the ESC recommendation.... I am considering shipping the body off to a pro to handle that part though ... especially with all the hub-bub about matching the green.terry.sc wrote: ↑Mon Feb 26, 2024 8:37 pm
The "reinforced slipper clutch to support brushless motors " is basically stating it has a slipper.
Kyosho makes different slipper pads for different setups, unfortunately Kyosho doesn't say which pad works best in which conditions. The standard slipper pads are good for brushed motors and brushless motors on lower grip surfaces. For more powerful brushless motors and on high grip surfaces you change to the UM516B pads which allow more slip and can be tuned finer.
To be honest I only recently discovered Kyosho made a selection of pad materials myself, then a friend destroyed the differential gear in an Ultima racing on carpet and Kyoshos UK account manager pointed out he should have changed the kit pads for the upgrade ones to allow more give in the drivetrain.
If you like the Kyosho 240S ESC, don't go searching for the Performa P1 60A ESC that's half the price.
OPTIMA MID '87 WC Worlds Spec Ltd Ed.
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Re: OPTIMA MID '87 WC Worlds Spec Ltd Ed.
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Re: OPTIMA MID '87 WC Worlds Spec Ltd Ed.
For anyone interested: the gunmetal shocks are listed on Kyosho. So there might be other Worlds Spec parts available as well.
The assemblies (currently showing out of stock)
OTW151 (Front)
OTW152 (Rear)
The bodies (currently showing in stock)
OTW151-01 (Front Shock Case)
OTW152-01 (Rear Shock Case)
Titanium Nitride Shock Shafts (currently showing in stock)
OTW153 3X37mm Shock Shaft
OTW154 3X49mm Shock Shaft
The assemblies (currently showing out of stock)
OTW151 (Front)
OTW152 (Rear)
The bodies (currently showing in stock)
OTW151-01 (Front Shock Case)
OTW152-01 (Rear Shock Case)
Titanium Nitride Shock Shafts (currently showing in stock)
OTW153 3X37mm Shock Shaft
OTW154 3X49mm Shock Shaft
Losi LXT (JRX-T Conversion)
Losi JRX Pro SE
Kyosho Rocky
Parts-Car-to-Runner Kyosho Rocky
Yokomo YZ10 WCS '95 Pavidis
RJ Speed Spec10 "Chew Toy Mk1"
Redcat Lightning STK "Chew Toy Mk 2"
Kyosho Lazer ZX, ZX-R, ZX-RR
Losi JRX Pro SE
Kyosho Rocky
Parts-Car-to-Runner Kyosho Rocky
Yokomo YZ10 WCS '95 Pavidis
RJ Speed Spec10 "Chew Toy Mk1"
Redcat Lightning STK "Chew Toy Mk 2"
Kyosho Lazer ZX, ZX-R, ZX-RR
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Re: OPTIMA MID '87 WC Worlds Spec Ltd Ed.
Hi all... so I'm going to swallow my pride here
& ask for some help, because I really, really, really don't want to tear apart the rear tranny.
I started this build & let many months go by after completing the first couple of steps (mistake). I returned to the project the other night, finished the transmission assemblies & bolted them to the chassis. The belt drive operates smoothly & all seems good...'cept that there's an extra BRG014 staring at me.
I tore apart the front gearbox thinking I may have left one out, but all are there. I went through the previous steps in the manual & counted 5 needed out of 6 included. I didn't see one needed in any of the subsequent steps, and am thinking if I forgot one someplace, the tranny wouldn't operate so smoothly & there'd at least be a noticeable hiccup somewhere.
Anyone know if Kyosho actually included an extra one of these? I know it's more likely I missed where the 6th is needed (hoping it's later in the build). I would rather correct the mistake now than after a failed maiden voyage.
If anyone who has built this kit can confirm whether or not all 6 were needed, it'd really be a big help.
Thank you!

I started this build & let many months go by after completing the first couple of steps (mistake). I returned to the project the other night, finished the transmission assemblies & bolted them to the chassis. The belt drive operates smoothly & all seems good...'cept that there's an extra BRG014 staring at me.
I tore apart the front gearbox thinking I may have left one out, but all are there. I went through the previous steps in the manual & counted 5 needed out of 6 included. I didn't see one needed in any of the subsequent steps, and am thinking if I forgot one someplace, the tranny wouldn't operate so smoothly & there'd at least be a noticeable hiccup somewhere.
Anyone know if Kyosho actually included an extra one of these? I know it's more likely I missed where the 6th is needed (hoping it's later in the build). I would rather correct the mistake now than after a failed maiden voyage.
If anyone who has built this kit can confirm whether or not all 6 were needed, it'd really be a big help.
Thank you!
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Re: OPTIMA MID '87 WC Worlds Spec Ltd Ed.
Since I got so much help here last time, I'm going to ask for just a little more...
Since this debacle, the build has gotten a lot better ... actually almost finished (yeah, I know, my average build-time is probably 3-4 months ... I think my ADD gets me & I do just a little at a time, which is clearly not the right way to do it. Anyway, I got the body painted by a pro, and it came out great. Unfortunately due to a miscommunication about the decals, I wound up trying to remove them. I used the wrong type of Goo-Gone, and ruined it. He graciously offered to paint me another one gratis, and I'm shopping around for a replacement.
Before I spend the $50, I was wondering if anyone had some tips on how to get this residue off, if it's even possible. I've tried brake fluid, lighter fluid, dish soap...only seems to be getting worse. Any other ideas?
Thanks.
Since this debacle, the build has gotten a lot better ... actually almost finished (yeah, I know, my average build-time is probably 3-4 months ... I think my ADD gets me & I do just a little at a time, which is clearly not the right way to do it. Anyway, I got the body painted by a pro, and it came out great. Unfortunately due to a miscommunication about the decals, I wound up trying to remove them. I used the wrong type of Goo-Gone, and ruined it. He graciously offered to paint me another one gratis, and I'm shopping around for a replacement.
Before I spend the $50, I was wondering if anyone had some tips on how to get this residue off, if it's even possible. I've tried brake fluid, lighter fluid, dish soap...only seems to be getting worse. Any other ideas?
Thanks.
- Frankentruck
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Re: OPTIMA MID '87 WC Worlds Spec Ltd Ed.
Cool paint job!
Is the residue sticky? Sometimes a piece of sticky tape on top of adhesive can be used to remove adhesive. A little bit of vegetable oil on a paper towel can also break up some adhesives.
Is the residue sticky? Sometimes a piece of sticky tape on top of adhesive can be used to remove adhesive. A little bit of vegetable oil on a paper towel can also break up some adhesives.
Frankensteined RC10T3 / Franky Jr RC10GT-e (x2) / A+ stamp / Toy Story RC / Graphite replica / B1.5 BFG 5LTi / Clonewald / Hyper Hornet
"I love the effort, but it sure looks like you took the long way around to a tub again"
"I love the effort, but it sure looks like you took the long way around to a tub again"
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Re: OPTIMA MID '87 WC Worlds Spec Ltd Ed.
Hmm..I'll try those ... I worry it might actually be damage to the lexan & not even adhesive anymore; the decals intended were removed .. thanksFrankentruck wrote: ↑Tue Oct 08, 2024 4:45 pm Cool paint job!
Is the residue sticky? Sometimes a piece of sticky tape on top of adhesive can be used to remove adhesive. A little bit of vegetable oil on a paper towel can also break up some adhesives.
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Re: OPTIMA MID '87 WC Worlds Spec Ltd Ed.
If it's lexan damage and it's on the outside, maybe some light wet sanding with 1000 grit sandpaper and then wax/polish?
Frankensteined RC10T3 / Franky Jr RC10GT-e (x2) / A+ stamp / Toy Story RC / Graphite replica / B1.5 BFG 5LTi / Clonewald / Hyper Hornet
"I love the effort, but it sure looks like you took the long way around to a tub again"
"I love the effort, but it sure looks like you took the long way around to a tub again"
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Re: OPTIMA MID '87 WC Worlds Spec Ltd Ed.
That won't work out well... I've tried sanding bodies like that & just made it much worse. I ordered a new body. I think it'll just be a spare. Maybe I can paint the front window black & cover that part.
- Frankentruck
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Re: OPTIMA MID '87 WC Worlds Spec Ltd Ed.
I've buffed sanded plexiglass before and it came out nice and glossy, but there wasn't a painted area near it.
Frankensteined RC10T3 / Franky Jr RC10GT-e (x2) / A+ stamp / Toy Story RC / Graphite replica / B1.5 BFG 5LTi / Clonewald / Hyper Hornet
"I love the effort, but it sure looks like you took the long way around to a tub again"
"I love the effort, but it sure looks like you took the long way around to a tub again"
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Re: OPTIMA MID '87 WC Worlds Spec Ltd Ed.
If it's just sticker residue, I've always used WD-40 to remove that stuff; just wet it down with WD-40 and let it sit a few minutes, then wipe. It may need a few applications but won't harm paint or Lexan.
That residue however almost looks like silicone or caulk. If that's the case, good luck trying to remove it without damaging the Lexan...
That residue however almost looks like silicone or caulk. If that's the case, good luck trying to remove it without damaging the Lexan...

Completed projects: CYANide Onroad Optima | Zebra Gold Optima | Barney Optima | OptiMutt RWD Mid
Gallery - Coel's Stalls: Marui Galaxy & Shogun Resto-Mods | FrankenBuff AYK Buffalo | 1987 Buick GNX RC12L3
Gallery - Coel's Stalls: Marui Galaxy & Shogun Resto-Mods | FrankenBuff AYK Buffalo | 1987 Buick GNX RC12L3
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Re: OPTIMA MID '87 WC Worlds Spec Ltd Ed.
Maybe it needs a sticker....
.
.
Frankensteined RC10T3 / Franky Jr RC10GT-e (x2) / A+ stamp / Toy Story RC / Graphite replica / B1.5 BFG 5LTi / Clonewald / Hyper Hornet
"I love the effort, but it sure looks like you took the long way around to a tub again"
"I love the effort, but it sure looks like you took the long way around to a tub again"
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Re: OPTIMA MID '87 WC Worlds Spec Ltd Ed.
Anyone else tried Zee batteries & not be able to fit them through the car?
I got these today but no worky.
The dimensions are: 138*47*25mm/5.43*1.85*0.98inch; Appro
What do you guys use?
I got these today but no worky.
The dimensions are: 138*47*25mm/5.43*1.85*0.98inch; Appro
What do you guys use?
- RogueIV
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Re: OPTIMA MID '87 WC Worlds Spec Ltd Ed.
I use low CG shorty packs, the same ones I use it my race cars. Fantom and the local Track's house brand, Team New Wave. they're 4200-4800mah which is plenty of capacity IMO.sundevil67 wrote: ↑Tue Nov 05, 2024 8:16 pm Anyone else tried Zee batteries & not be able to fit them through the car?
I got these today but no worky.
The dimensions are: 138*47*25mm/5.43*1.85*0.98inch; Appro
What do you guys use?
Consistency is the key I keep misplacing.
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