The hex adapters look to have a taper on the back side for the 1/4" axles, but for that price you could get 15 of the hpi plastic adapter sets from tower and cut the nub off:
Ed, I'll tear the front end down, take a picture of the holes, mark the ones I have drilled myself for the MIP steering bell cranks and take precise measurements for you to locate the center of the two holes. I simply used 2x2 nylon washers that are supposed to be used inside the RC10 shocks to limit the travel (the biggest ones). A bit of patience for the rest
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Ed, I have been waiting 3 entire years to complete this build, I'm sure you also have waited a long time before having gathered all the parts, so I'm sure we both know what patience means here... Just to clarify: "tracing" the nose plate just means placing it on a sheet of paper and make a 1:1 template?
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Come and visit the stable
Asso_man! wrote:Ed, I have been waiting 3 entire years to complete this build, I'm sure you also have waited a long time before having gathered all the parts, so I'm sure we both know what patience means here... Just to clarify: "tracing" the nose plate just means placing it on a sheet of paper and make a 1:1 template?
Absolutely that's what I was talking about. If you can do the whole lot fantastic but if just one thing then could it be the end where it attaches to the chassis please.
Asso_man! wrote:Will do the entire job while at it I'm just not sure how to scan it and not lose the scale
I think if you scan it on an A4 piece of paper so it takes the whole piece of paper even though the trace is somewhere in the middle that should be good. Alternatively if you scan it with a ruler on it or mark on the page some scale with a ruler then I can get the scale right this end. e.g. if there is a line with 5 centimetres marked out then I can scale it until that 5 cm's is correct and then know the picture is the right size. Anyway thanks a lot I am sure it'll be fine.