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For a brushed motor I love the modern GoolRC motors. You can pick up a 13,17, 21, 23, or 27t for around $8-12 shipped. I get them with a speed control for $24 off amazon. They are just a plain black motor and look correct so I will sometimes slap a reproduction label on them just for fun.

Really trying to not get off topic but ????????????
Thought I was getting double vision.

Chuck

Ill check the gool motors out. Was hoping to stay period with the motor, but the esc and rx will be modern so i guess it doesnt matter.

radioactivity wrote: Thought I was getting double vision

Just a shop truck

Been chipping away at this.
Got the chassis protection on


Servo savers were cracked and incomplete so put rere worlds bellcranks on it


I have a load of ball cups which fit great. Not sure what they are, schumacher maybe

Its going to be a runner, so ill use them.

The plastics just wouldnt clean up well enough so i dyed the bits that 100% needed it!


And some more stuff turned up


I got jconcepts tyres for the track and have some rere fronts for the garden. I have jconcepts rears coming too but no rere rears available so might fit kyosho tyres. I bought 2 pairs of new wheels and front tyres purely as they were cheap. Might try cutting a pair of fronts like schumacher cut staggers.

The jconcepts tyres, do i still use the plastic inserts? They dont serve any clamping purpose but they do seem to firm the tyres up a little by compressing the foam. The JC tyres are very thin and soft and even with the foams they seem a little squishy.

I also undecided about the rest of the plastics. They are all discoloured, but i have some used caster blocks, steering knuckles and front shocks coming and the parts on those are quite white. It would look best if all the parts are dyed but dyeing parts that arent too bad feels a bit wrong.

yes, I would use the insert on the jconcepts tires(they are really intended for the jconcept hazard wheels) and be sure to glue too. you should be able to find the wheels really easy. it's the tires that are hard to find.

look much better dyed black. and nothing wrong with mixing and matching black and white parts. the factory did it.....predominantly due to the upgraded team arms, but towards the end of production, they mixed parts to fill stock.

Thanks.
I was going to buy the wheels too, there cheap enough, but wanted to stay jelly bean. Ill glue them well

Transmission is all back together, then found a slight problem. One of the holes in the motor plate had stripped threads where the pan bolts up.
A M3 bolt has solved the problem, even if it does feel a little wrong adding metric fasteners.

Decision now is, do i enlarge the hole and fit another M3 so they match, or keep the one correct bolt?

There should be enough room to use #4-40 nuts behind the plate. I wouldn't use metric. Maybe #5-40 if you go for oversize (same allen key size).

aakoskin wrote: ↑Fri Jan 31, 2020 7:19 am There should be enough room to use #4-40 nuts behind the plate. I wouldn't use metric. Maybe #5-40 if you go for oversize (same allen key size).

Using a nut was my first thought, but i dont have any. No 5-40 bolts either. Imperial fastners can be tricky to find in the uk.

Im not keen on the metric mix though. Sooner or later some spare hardware will come my way (i doubt this will be my only rc10!) And ill swap it out for something more suitable.

that's always a solution i used since 5-40 isn't super common. and you can use a motor mounting screw. the m3 is just a few thou bigger than a #4 so it works well. if the threads are good on the one, i'd just leave them different. you shouldn't ever need to touch them(much).

Id forgotten the motor obviously uses metric screws. I dont feel so bad about it now.

The jconcepts double dees arrived today, there nice! Stink though

Cant see either of the JC tyres lasting long though, so soft, but should work well on the track i use. This car wont be raced, i dont race, i just use track open days.

I was looking at the new wheels and the small ring for aftermarket tyres confuses me. It just sits there loose in the center groove. Whats its purpose?

The best solution to your stripped motor plate problem is to helicoil it with 4-40 inserts.

There are UK sellers on ebay that have the size you need. Be advised its a little tricky.

Cant seem to find any, ill try harder later.
Im no stranger to thread inserts, have alot of metric sizes already.

Starting to look like a car again


Only thing im slightly unsure about is the diff
lamborghini novitec torado
It has a new thrust bearing, new diff rings, new diff balls, new Teflon bushes and full bearings. Transmission in general feels nice, but the diff action is pretty stiff.
Manual says to do the but up untill the end of the shaft is flush, but that isnt happening! Spring goes coil bound and its all VERY tight. I turned the nut over to get the nylon part on the shaft and did it up but not too tight. Cant move the spur when the driveshafts are held, diff action works smoothly when i turn the axles in opposite directions, but its still set quite tight.

I dont like having that nut the wrong way round though. Will it undo if the nyloc section isnt on the shaft?