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JTSpeedDemon wrote: ↑Sat Oct 26, 2019 3:33 pm It doesn't fully recenter when I let off the steering, and the sound stops once it's "just right" centered-wise.
Sometimes the servo seems a little weak.
So I take it I should lube up the whole steering system(I use WD-40), and loosen all the fasteners a bit to see if that helps.
Otherwise I guess I just have a worn out servo?

I doubt that there is anything wrong with your servo, the steering is probably just a little tight. The hinge pins are steel and sometimes they will rust if the car has set for a while -- or maybe the bellcrank pivots are bound.
You can check this by popping the ball cup off the ballstud that's threaded into the servo saver, then move the steering system by hand and determine if or where it is tight.
I'd recommend removing the hinge pins to clean the rust but this can be a big hassle since it means removing and reinstalling a bunch of e-clips. Just work the steering back and forth by hand (servo disconnected) until it frees up.
Remember that these little servos are meant to steer the car while it's moving - they may not always be strong enough to fully re-center the steering when the car is sitting still.

I unmounted the servo and turned the steering system, and it all feels nice and free, except for the actual ball joint where it connects to the servo. I tried putting some lube in there, and it didn't really help. Is it due to the angle it's at going to the steering arm?

JTSpeedDemon wrote: ↑Sat Oct 26, 2019 6:04 pm I unmounted the servo and turned the steering system, and it all feels nice and free, except for the actual ball joint where it connects to the servo. I tried putting some lube in there, and it didn't really help. Is it due to the angle it's at going to the steering arm?

It might be - the RC10 ballstuds and ballcups are typically a little loose but maybe in this instance they are bound due to the very steep angle.
I usually try to install the ballstud into the backside of the servo saver (same side as the servo) - this makes the steering rod straighter and in more direct line toward the bellcrank.

For now it works, but it's on my to do list.
I raised the front ride height to the top setting, and it does a little better in the yard, but it still gets stuck because of the high grass(we mow on the highest setting).
It's made for a track anyways.
What does the "Throttle Atv." control do on the controller?

They're for setting the individual throttle (high) and brake (low) trim. I haven't tinkered with one of these old radios in ages but if I recall correctly, the manual for your Novak ESC says to set both of the ATV's to full and then set the neutral position with the throttle trim knob.
You're also able to set the throw on the throttle trigger as well.
BTW- here's a manual for your radio system.


http://manuals.hobbico.com/fut/2pk-2pka-manual.pdf

Ok, I need some wheel and tire suggestions.
I'm thinking about getting these for the rear:https://www.ebay.com/itm/Team-Associated-RC10-Buggy-Rear-tires-rims-579/133218176081?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D40719%26meid%3D4b7e1d1e81d545ad8e8283b880300325%26pid%3D100667%26rk%3D8%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D233382476319%26itm%3D133218176081%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2334524&_trksid=p2334524.c100667.m2042
And these for the front:https://www.ebay.com/itm/Team-Associated-RC10-Buggy-Front-tires-rims-Off-road-3/143388171015?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D40719%26meid%3D4b7e1d1e81d545ad8e8283b880300325%26pid%3D100667%26rk%3D7%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D233382476319%26itm%3D143388171015%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2334524&_trksid=p2334524.c100667.m2042
Just to bash on and take to the track.
I would do the JC Racing set, but my Mom is apprehensive about international, cross currency transactions.
I haven't gotten a body sorted out yet, but is it a good idea to get these? Or maybe get some hex adapters and some modern wheels and tires?
What would be the most economical and easy?
EDIT - I also pulled the motor and found out it's an A stamp Cadillac chassis. With the Edinger style gear cover(I think it was aftermarket).

Nevermind, I got the racing equipment figured out.
Yesterday I got a pair of front one piece dished wheels with ribbed tires for about $13.
And there's a similar pair of rear pin drive wheels that I think I'll get today for about $13.
And there's a beat up, prepainted body I'm gonna nab to beat on.
The tires will be used, so usable life will be a little shorter, but I'll have some spare stuff to beat on and save the originals.
And since the front and rear wheels will be the one piece dish design, it'll be easy to tell them apart from the originals.
My dad says he's going to take me to Indy RC this month! Woot!
Gotta get the beater equipment figured out and I still need to slap the Kyosho Le Mans 34 in there!

JTSpeedDemon wrote: ↑Sat Oct 26, 2019 3:33 pm So I take it I should lube up the whole steering system(I use WD-40), and loosen all the fasteners a bit to see if that helps.

I just wanted to chime in on using WD-40 for lubrication...that's a bad idea. WD-40 is best used for removing moisture and grease. If anything, WD-40 will remove any oil or grease that was previously lubricating any parts. Use it as a cleaner (I use it with a toothbrush all the time to remove dirt, gunk & grease from RC parts, it's fantastic for that), but don't use it as a lube. Use the appropriate oil or grease to lube parts.

Ok thanks for the tip, I was wondering myself.
In the box I have a bag of what I believe is dry graphite lube, should I use that instead? Or is there some kind of grease or oil I should use?

Woop!
Got some rear wheels and tires! Again, the one piece dish design with pin drive(they'll match the front, and it'll be easy to tell which set is the beaters). They're lower profile than the current ones, probably better for the groomed dirt it'll be running. I can also soften the suspension a bit if needs be.
Tires look to be in pretty good condition, should give me a decent life on the track. Only about $13.

Getting closer to a track day setup! Just gotta get a body!

For steering, no lubrication is typically needed for balls and ball-ends/cups, as the lube attracts dirt and makes them wear out faster. If a ball-end is fitting a bit loose, it's time to replace it. About the only thing in a steering system you'd lube is the bellcrank, which probably has bearings in it that need some light oil. You can buy fancy-schmancy expensive RC oil, but plain-Jane 3-in-1 oil works just about as good. Wheel bearings also require oil, obviously.

Ok, all we've got at the moment is penetrating oil with kerosene in it, and stuff like WD-40, WD-40 white lithium grease, and motor oil. I'll go ahead and invest in a can of 3 in 1 to make sure the bushings don't seize up or anything at the track.
Should I get the one for electric motors or just the standard one?
What exactly is a bellcrank?

The top half of this picture shows your bellcrank assembly, mostly in red parts on this car. Usually the two shafts on the bottom of the bellcrank have bearings or bushings on them, which need oil. When your steering servo pushes one side of the bellcrank, the linkage moves the other side as well, so both tie-rods turn both wheels. None of the black or white ball-ends/cups should need lubrication.

EDIT: Here's a picture showing a simple bellcrank assembly with bearings inside, just ahead of the orange ESC.

Should I get the 3 in 1 for electric motors or the standard type?

I use the standard type, but either should be fine. It's not like those bellcrank bearings are spinning thousands of RPM.