RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

jwscab wrote: ↑Fri Nov 03, 2017 8:23 pm nice job with the carbon tube idea! before you are all done 'permanently' assembling the car, add a small section of heat shrink tube over each end over the pin, to prevent it from walking out and ruining the tube. trick used on older cvd's to keep the pin captive.

We had a pressed on sleeve idea planned to prevent pin loss. Now fitted. It still only weighs 2/3 of the original.

excellent.........

Interesting concept. For my one, I had some nicad soldered up in parallel (stick of 3 for each side). I guess if you are running competitively this would be a good plan. I'd like to see this borne out.

Bit more progress now the Lipos have arrived. With some cut outs, they fit pretty easily:-
Next we started looking at the gears which came with the kit. 48tooth spur gear seems quite a high gearing to me (was expecting 55-60tooth for some reason). Pinion shown is a 19tooth. Does anybody who runs one of these have any input on gearing for brushed modified motors? I am going to try to source some suitable larger spur gears.... am sure we can make something fit

You can see the Lipo cut outs a little better here too.

really depends on the drive ratio of the pinion/spur combo at the axle. final drive on an RC10 b2, just as a randomly grabbed manual here shows 7.78:1 for a 24 degree stock motor, all the way to 11.20:1 on a 10 turn motor. So whatever that spur/pinion is at the axle x the spur pinion combo at the motor. if it's 19/48, it's about 2.52 x the ratio in the axle should get you something around 11 probably for a hot brushed motor, if not, you have to gear down on the pinion. that is where I would start.

Just found this thread , great work so far !

Still a way to go yet - front and rear shock mounting points to negotiate, mounting points for the electrics, sort the gearing, and then most likely turn up a set of alloys for it. Also need to fabricate some sort of bumper for it as well. Plus any other headaches which crop up during the build.

I have just scored a few spares on eBay today as well - complete set of hardened gearbox internals, diff box housing and a gearbox casing. All new in the packets. I am guessing spare for these are few and far between so thought i would grab them whilst they were available. I also got hold of a brand new and mint central drive shaft just in case out cf experimental version doesn't work out as planned.

Nice works

When you say your going to tern up some alloy wheels ,are they for the shelf or for running them ? I also have a lath and mill but always assumed that alloy wheels would bend unless you made them rather heavy .

We always ran our own alloys BITD.

Yokomo from '90.
Our original Mid still wearing our old wheels.
And we made a set for the Meteor just last month. Strong and light.

Did a suspension mock up this evening. As others have reported the new pivot balls were mad tight, but luckily my new kit came with a spares car. We removed the used balls and tried those and they are beautiful and free but still without play.

I have seen cars with the shocks in front of the wishbones (front and rear), although the instructions say behind as we have put it together. I am assuming the wishbones can simply be flipped to achieve this, extending the wheelbase slightly at the same time? Any if you guys done this? Issues?

Now I am looking at suspension specific pics of other cars I am also noticing examples with wishbones exhibiting much fewer cross braces as well. I am assuming I have a later, stronger design version on mine?

dinglem wrote: ↑Wed Nov 08, 2017 7:05 pm We always ran our own alloys BITD.

Yokomo from '90.

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Our original Mid still wearing our old wheels.

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And we made a set for the Meteor just last month. Strong and light.

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Cool thanks

dinglem wrote: ↑Wed Nov 08, 2017 7:17 pm Now I am looking at suspension specific pics of other cars I am also noticing examples with wishbones exhibiting much fewer cross braces as well. I am assuming I have a later, stronger design version on mine?

You are correct. Early versions have less cross bracing in the wishbones.

Turned the wishbones around today, front and rear, and it has worked a treat. Also took delivery of a NOS cental drive shaft to have as a spare 'just in case'. I saw it come up for sale and being so rare i thought i'd grab it. I also ordered an alternative spur gear from the US. I will post more once it arrives, but i have upped the size from the kit spec to a 56tooth (32dp).

I have to say i am amazed at the quality of this kit considering the mixed feedback i have read about them. For the year of manufacture it seems very advanced indeed.