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A picture I cannibalized for you...

Fantastic, thank you JK!

Awesome project! You are in a tight corner up in the front there! To add to GoMachV and JK's notes, it is by design that one can draw imaginary lines that begin at the steering knuckle pins, go right through the tie rod balls, and meet somewhere near the center of the rear axle. It is ackerman and it keeps the front wheels tracking properly around corners.



You can see how it relies on a straight tie rod (hence jk's recommendation). Now the bump steer occurs in the vertical dimension, and will become more and more exaggerated as one shortens the tie rods/spreads the bellcranks...



The tie rods need to be relatively level to angled downwards and not pull or push (steer the wheel) when you compress the suspension. It rc, the most common adjustment is to put washers under the ball studs to modify the vertical tie rod alignment. But as you may see in the drawing above (if you stare at it long enough), the upper a arm (tunbuckles in our case) also come into play. Keep at it!

At days end, your tie rods lengths and alignments are going to be more critical/unforgiving than the drive bones. ie the tranny may need to move in v2

Brian, glad to see you back. And adding math into my explanations

Thanks Brian for the technical info.

I raised the ballstuds 3mm on the steering block, removed the washer on the bellcrank stud, and moved the upper tie rod inwards. A considerable amount of bump steer has gone, although not altogether.



As for the bellcrank linkage, attempt number eight is the best it's going to get. The trade off being I had to move the connector 3/16 back as the U shaped tie kept hitting the transmission. The bellcranks need to remain where thery are in order for the ballcup to tuck into the notch of the gear housing and the output shaft. You can see from the pic, it's tight in there.







Next weekend I hope to get started on the front shock mount. Using the B44.3 shocks, I'm going to need to increase the height of the tower by 1/4" to get full use of the travel.

Bubbleboy wrote:

It appears in this photo you could go underneath the shaft input?

Pardon my crude MS Paint drawing, but hollow out the center (or relieve the top or bottom only) and put an ackerman link here? Use thinner CF stock, maybe 1mm or 1.5mm?

You can drill two small holes behind the tie rod ball ends and run a simple z link made of music wire, like a yokomo yz10, and put a profile in it to curve under the trans. The closer you put the tie link to the front will reduce slop.

JK Racing wrote:Brian, glad to see you back. And adding math into my explanations

Dude it feels like ages with all this new technology all over the place. I got some catchin' up to do! All this NIX stuff for one Joey is new to me.

Yeah Bubbleboy if it were me I'd play around with a design more like an A&L kit, where the CF bar is the center link and direct tie rod connection. The one that Daryl has that's got the bend in it (I believe intended for 10T's?) may even work. The last steering kit I got from him came with like 3 different linkages but it's pretty easy to cut your own, as you've already done.

Nice design in the front steering link! keep it up

Taking Brian's advice and idea...and I had a few minutes, I revised my drawing some...

Thank JK. I might give that design a go on the next one of these I build.

Weather was better this weekend. Got the new shock tower made. It's nice to see the front end settle down with this new setup. It was really a 4x4 with the previous tower.



Received the nosetube material from Mk-Zero this week. Was able to install it now that the new tower has holes in it allowing them to pass through. Tapped and polished them up.



It's looking good!

Great project,I hope you can take some running footage

Thanks! Me too!

You know that old saying, measure twice, cut once. Ya, that really doesn't work for me. Four attempts later I finally have a rear upper deck I'm happy with.

I decided to extend the rear portion of the top plate for a body mount. Once I get a body, I'll see if I have to trim down the mount, or spin a longer one on the lathe.



The upper plate will give me lots of real estate for the ESC and receiver. Also had to create a new rear shock tower that strattles the top deck.



The mini Savox servo came in. Figures I only had one servo mount. The other one should be here in a couple of weeks.



This next week I should be able to get the front upper deck done. Not looking forward to this one, due to the intricacies of making it flush with the transmission.....details to follow....

doesn't look to me like you need a forward deck.

I wish I had enough spare parts to make one of these, but as it sits I'd have to buy all the B44 stuff.