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Hi,

I am running 48 pitch spur and pinions with no problems

Dave.

I got antsy and went ahead and put black springs all the way around and the suspension felt nice and plush. The car handled pretty good too. It still has the push. While running it, I decided that maybe I wanted to try and race it at the track and see if I could get the car working well enough to beat 1 or 2 cars. I have a set of Dirt Webs already mounted up that were on my B3. I'll swap out the speedo and motor and put in an LRP brushed ESC and my Trinity Green Machine 2.

I pulled the shocks off the car and have everything set out to do a rebuild and see what pistons and limiters I have on the car.

My transmission is a re-re one, but it is super smooth. I spent a lot of time working on it.

DaveM wrote:Hi Ca-rj,

With your 6 gear are you running the black idlers?

I believe the re-release idlers are made from the same material as the black ones.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDSYG&P=7

I have built two or three 6 gears and you can definitely tell which one has the black idlers.

I also did the RCCA out drive bearing mod, all up it spins like a stealth

Dave.

On my short arm cars I am running # 6225 inline steering blocks.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEDYR&P=7

With GT wide axles # 7222.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKYT2&P=7

So the front track is about 1/2 inch wider all up.

Cheers, Dave.

I ordered the AE 2.2 conversion kit, so I'll have the same setup as you.

What castor blocks should I be running? Currently I have the stock ones on it. I'm pretty sure I have 30º.

Hi,

On the street I am planning to try 10 degree caster blocks, more tire contact on the road.

RC10L's used between 0 and 10 degrees, DS's used between 20 and 25 degrees.

On the street I believe when turning you need a small amount of body roll to help load up the

outside tires for traction.

This is for the Street not on a professionally set up track surface, that is why I use silver springs as

per the CE and Worlds manual.

Cheers, Dave.

Got it all put together. I ordered a set of Lunsford turnbuckles and a new set of diff balls and rings. The car is setup with 35 wt, #1 pistons and silver springs in the front and 32.5 wt, #1 pistons and green springs in the rear. In the front, I unscrewed the lower shock eye two turns to get a little more droop. I'm going to start running it at the track and see if I can get it to handle and jump well. Once I get a good feel for it, I'll leave it alone and start running it as a general purpose car. There's talk of building a track in our back yard this spring, which would make this the perfect car for that.

The car as it currently sits. There's a Trinity Green Machine 2 27T in there with 13/54 gearing. Ready to run, the car weighs 1558g.


Front arm mod. Can't get full steering without it. Dual rate turned down to 90% on the radio.

Hi,

Very nice, I like the blue body, needs some stickers!

Dave.

Ryan, wide axles? I had no issues with wheel rub and short arms. Also, post a picture of the top of the front shocks/tower. I had a 'lower' hole that gave the front end the correct amount of droop.

Good eyes Joey,

I just skimmed too quickly.

Axles should look like this,

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKYT2&P=7

Dave.

Joey, I'm using the 2.2 conversion that AE offers. The front axles are blue. I'm also using the single hole, re-re front shock tower.

Took the car for a drive outside and noticed that it is nose diving off of jumps. I've had this problem when my short arm car for some time but thought after rebuilding everything that I would have solved it. Even with the front spring fully compressed it would still nose dive. Do I need a heavier spring or is my oil too thick?

how are you jumping?

if you let off the throttle as you leave the jump it will nose dive.
try keeping on the throttle, full and it may even land ass down, get a feel for it.
never give it break unless to are trying to adjust the attitude/angle of landing.

I race weekly, so I do understand how to jump. Even if I try to level it out it still lands nose first. I put a shorty in and all the way to the back and that helped a little. I have a blue front spring on now but even that didn't have the desired effect. I might try a softer rear spring and see if that will keep the rear down.

I should also note that I am jumping the curb from the street to my driveway, so this isn't a jump like we have at the track. I have many cars though and all of them can do this jump landing level. I am going to reserve going really crazy with springs and oils for when I can get some track time.