RC10B5

[askbob]

The front & rear arms appear to be a tad beefier than the B4 parts, maybe?

[Orange]

The whole thing seems to be beefed up. The car is built like a tank.

[slotcarrod]

Thank you for doing this very nice, detailed build! I look forward to building mine and will be using your build as a reference!

Do you know what spare parts one should take to the track?

[Orange]

I'm not sure. Haven't come across anything that seems weak. Since they are a "new" thing to AE, I would say the front uprights... And I would keep some spares of hinge pin inserts. Just from my experiences racing 1/8 and 1/10 fuel onroad, they wear out. I have to say, it's about time that technology makes it's way into electric off-road.

[Orange]

Bags D-FF Transmission...



Ok, there is a lot I would like to talk about here because there is plenty of new features with this part of the car. I know there have been questions about the internal gears and what they are... I have hand counted each one, twice for accuracy, :

Diff Gear: 52
Idler Gear: 31 (B4 is 27)
Top Shaft gear: 20




The Diff is up first and its pretty standard Stealth Diff in how it is built. The outdrives are lightened in a way it does not hurt the integrity of them:



The diff gear accepts the balls from one side and they will fall out if you turn it over. Something a little different from previous diff gears.


Diff Gear Completed


We move on to the assembly of the gears and case. Bearings installed:


The manual suggests to put a small drop of diff grease on each gear. I have never done this before, but for this build page, I wanted to stay as close to the manual as possible.


Wing Mounts are re-designed:


Alright, so this picture should have some more parts to it... As I was suspecting the case to be assembled like a traditional Stealth transmission, I totally missed some screws at this point... More on that in a bit


The Slipper appears to be just one of the VERY few things carried over from the B4.2:



Getting back to the missing screws.... So I was looking for some long screws to bolt the motor plate to the car and I didn't have any... So, guess what, I am going to have to go back through the manual and figure out what I missed. Well I totally missed the screws that Hold only the trans. case together (Without the motor plate) So ya, here is something new and cool, The motor plate is screwed to the Transmission case from the other side:


Another interesting thing, the transmission is keyed to the chassis a little differently

Anyway, I thought it important to bring up those items....

And here is the Transmission bolted to the Chassis



End of transmission build... Here is the updated chassis pic

[losiXXXman]

First thanks for the build log Sean, even though a B5 is probably not in my future atm, its still cool to see. 2 quick questions.

1. You used the 25* front suspension mount/bulkhead, and 5* castor at the hub carrier. So AE is saying that 30* is the "standard" setup on the car? For the OG RC10 everyone wants the eluisive 25* blocks it seems. I haven't reaced in quite a while, but weren't themost of the popular and effective setups on the B4,.1,.2 using 25* of castor?

2. Are the "big balls" still using 4-40 threads?

Thanks!

[Orange]

Its interesting you bring up the castor... I'm not sure if its the way I'm looking at it, but the kick up on the front does not seem to match either of the bulkhead blocks but its closest to 25*. I didn't spend a whole lot of time staring at that, so I could be wrong. And yes, 25 did seem to be preferred on the B4 cars. It didn't seem to affect the steering too badly, my friend in ABQ told me the B5 has great corner speed.

When they went from the B3 to the B4, You could still see some of the design carried over from the 2 cars and it showed with certain similarities in how they handled. Like neither of those cars really landed off jumps very well. I don't really get the sense in building this car that design was carried over. Its like they started clean slate. Just nothing pops out at me and makes me think "That's kind of B4-ish" So far what I'm hearing is the B5 has a big improvement landing off jumps as well.

The ball studs are metric... Looks like 3mm. The balls themselves are 6mm. Nothing at all on this car is SAE, including the bearings. So far I have used a 2.0 and a 1.5 hex wrench. A 5.5mm nut driver only because of that oddball nut that I talked about.

Don't know if I answered your question or not, but when a track report comes I can tackle that a little better maybe. Shooting for next week sometime.

[losiXXXman]

So you think that the overall caster at the front kingpins will actually measure up ~25*? Also, looking at the geometry of the castor blocks, it is reminiscent of the RPM steering enhancement kit for the RC10 and the Losi ProSE. How the pivot point is nearer the center of the wheel's axle.

[Orange]

Yes, if I had used 0* hinge pin carriers inside the Castor Block. I have +5* as the manual suggested though.

[Orange]

I don't find them to look anything like the RPM castor blocks... they are about twice the size.

They don't look that big in my iPhone pictures and the size of the ball studs makes them look smaller than they really are. They extend nearly 3/4 of the inside diameter of a front wheel.

[marlo]

That is one weird looking RC10 Classic

[pumpkinfish]

I'm still on the fence if I should buy the rm or mm. I can't afford to run both and the vintage stuff, lol! What made you go with the rm over the mm? I used to have an X-Factory X6^Squared when it first came out and it was a bear to dial in at my local clay track. I liked the corner speed but it never seemed to hook up like the rm cars did.

[Orange]

I will eventually get the Mid too. For now I am converting my 4.2 to a Centro.

[Orange]

Rear Hubs...




We have 0, .5 and 1.0 degree toe inserts and 2 different options for camber links.

The kits setup:


OK, so there is something new here... The CVA assembly is captured in the inside bearing. The pin is no longer held by a set screw.

Left and Right completed:


Installed on the car. I ended up sanding the black color off of every hinge pin on the car.

[Orange]

Tie Rods:

Here I am going to have to deviate from the stock kit build... I have purchased a set of JConcepts B4 series Turnbuckles:

The stockers:

JConcepts:


These are marked L and R... Yep, left and right for the outside of the steering links:

Also to note, the ballcups are one way. Meaning they only pop on one way. You can see in the picture how one side is smaller opening than the other:

In order from top to bottom, Steering, Front camber and Rear camber:


Its hard to tell in photo, but I am a loooong way from the right length... If you get a B5, tighten them as far as you can by hand before you install them on the car... Personally, I think the turnbuckles should be a little shorter than what came with the kit, but it is what it is. USE A LITTLE BLACK GREASE ON THEM BEFORE YOU TRY TO SCREW ON BALLCUP. This is not just a racer tip like the manual says, but should be a requirement. Don't be shy with it either. You can thank me later!
Steering link:

Front Camber link:

Rear Camber link


Progress pic: