RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

CamplinP wrote:Well, you can only have it one way and people will bitch about whichever way it is. I have seen some threads of re-re's saying they changed this and that and are pissed because it is not to original form. Now we have a very close representation of an original and people are pissed that it doesn't meet 2013 manufacturing standards. Does anyone remember whole handbooks written to get the six gear working smoothly? This is/was hobby grade racing hardware and is why a lot of novice users were swayed into grasshoppers, hornets, and falcons. Tweak, modify, and fix away on a VINTAGE racer. It is not meant to be a B4.4.

I find it hard to believe that AE/TT thought it was important enough to modernize the re-re RC10 in several ways including it's ability to handle lipo/brushless power but decided that it would be better to keep the imperfect fit and finish for "nostalgia's" sake. Since AE is claiming they tested the re-re down to 6T/8T(?) brushless power I think the fit/finish should match in order to accomodate that power because improvement in one area should require improvements in another. It was legitimate, A-main hobby grade racing hardware 30 years ago. Nowadays it'll be limited to 30-40-something year olds backyard bashing and/or running in vintage events for fun.

I think this boils down to different expectations and while a lot of us are happy to have it in any form, others want it to have perfect fit and finish. Here's the thing about that...the people that are cool with it didn't design it, redesign it, and don't accept money from Team Associated to push its sales. We are all just enthusiasts. Complaining on a forum about it and dragging it on isn't going to get anywhere. If you have a legitimate issue the concerns should be taken up with Team Associated. We can't fix it for you here.

For all those that got their front end built and are giving up....Send it to me and ill finish it for ya. I ain't scared of filing, shimming, shaving, and drilling the occasional servo horn access hole

Several ways; they made modern batteries fit, they basically used gold versions of the current top load shocks, and they made the gears so you didn't have to file them.. oh and some L R and other marks to differentiate the parts from original parts. I really don't see much modernization about the car at all, there was no car wide changes... they basically copied the parts for molds they had lost and reused the molds they still had. This is STILL a completely analogue (hand designed on paper) designed car. They made the minimum amount of changes needed to make it stand a chance using and surviving current power systems.

There is a reason people were suggested to buy an entry level car BITD... they did not require as much work assembling them to a decent state.

I concede that finishes on the aluminum parts may at times not be up to par, and manufacturer defects will and do happen... but this car will not go together like a Tamiya unless it is completely redesigned... and then it would not be a re release and likely many parts would not be usable on the original cars.

Chris

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Authentic+Replica


almost forgot this.

Ugh, I lost my entire last post...... Just be thankful parts are available again


If you want everything to fit perfectly buy Lego.

I don't like the direction Lego is going, too many specialized pieces.

SteveK wrote:I don't like the direction Lego is going, too many specialized pieces.

SteveK wrote:I don't like the direction Lego is going, too many specialized pieces.

At least you don't have to file them to make them fit

SteveK wrote:

badhoopty wrote: cleaning an outdrive and bathing it it lube aint really gonna do jack

Shows what you know; I did just that and it worked a treat.

Actually the cleaning and lube was for the surface rust and the stuff in the teeth of the gears.

shows what i know?

I think if you enjoy building kits, you will enjoy the RC10 re-release. The other cool thing about the various imperfections is the effort invested to make everything work is rewarded with a more competitive buggy. Call me wierd but I have always enjoyed the build and modifying more than the driving. Don't rush the build, take your time and enjoy it. If done correctly, you will have something you can be proud of, and will also have a competitive race car.

- Limestang

SteveK wrote:I don't like the direction Lego is going, too many specialized pieces.

Totally agree with you there.

kink wrote:

SteveK wrote:I don't like the direction Lego is going, too many specialized pieces.

At least you don't have to file them to make them fit

I suppose you think all this was built from parts available at the toy store and no filing or fitting was required either?

Legoland Florida

slow_jun wrote:almost forgot this.

It's interesting after all the comments about Chinese quality that most of the problems are to do with the USA made chassis.

HI!... I just finished building my RC10 Classic and i had only one issue. That was that both body mount posts were 1/2 inch too short. I just used two longer vintage RC10 ones i had here. Besides that mine went together perfectly. Everything fit snug , no parts missing, all the holes were countersunk and the chassis was straight. Very happy with mine.

Got any pics of the short body post? Curious what's going on there!

Here is the fitment of an original buggy with the protech body and two aluminum washers

And with four washers and a protech