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The first one I made 1986-87 for indoor is a killer short WB on tricky tracks the other one Long WB I made 1987-88 is killer outdoors
I'm on my way to get a milling machine.........a copy or so of the old alu-part might be the solution.

Made a little progress on one of the chassis. Unknown chassis, wider than the Duratrax XL that I have, no cutouts and they made their own servo mount and battery mount holes. Same length as stock outlaw within a few mm, likely more due to extra kickup but the upper chassis had to be shortened ever so slightly.

Question: do I dye the towers black or leave them natural?

Unless you're also planning to dye the top plate, keep them natural. Looks great so far, nice and clean...like working with a blank slate.

If I of any dye it will be all the g10. It would give it more of a kyosho frp look. I'm really up in the air about it. I think I will switch over to the other buggy for a bit and think about it

Very nice looking. Ive been wondering if any ultima based upper plate will work with minor mods with any ultima based bottom plate? So, say a 1st gen ultima top plate with pro ultima bottom plate? I just got a big heap of rampage, or outrage, or something, and hoping to turn them into an ultima of sorts.

I really like the all blacked out look but this looks good with some different colors in it also...I can see your dilemma

Todd

rccars4sal wrote:Very nice looking. Ive been wondering if any ultima based upper plate will work with minor mods with any ultima based bottom plate? So, say a 1st gen ultima top plate with pro ultima bottom plate? I just got a big heap of rampage, or outrage, or something, and hoping to turn them into an ultima of sorts.

The standard chassis and the XL I believe are the only two lengths. The outlaw appears to be XL length. Not sure if there were different Kelron chassis lengths. I have the original and turbo ultima upper deck and they were too short for this one. I copied the Kelron upper from a II and shortened it about 1/8" due to the added kickup

Ultima series are fun to mix and match, lots of compatibility.

I really dig the white natural finish on your parts. They work very well with the black chassis. After going through my pile rampage, I think its better as a rampage runner, and will save the 2wd build for another day.

The kelron was the same length as the ProXL. You can use a original Ultima top deck or a JG on a Pro chassis, but not a ProXL. The standoff holes will need to be drilled though as they are not the same.

Was the duratrax chassis for the xl exactly the same dimensions as a stock xl? I have a duratrax and the kickup and length are the same as this chassis, but it is larger all around the perimeter. The kickup on both chassis is more than the bulkhead would like, and that's why on the custom upper deck I had to change the front mounting slightly. I think if it had less take like a Kelron chassis the upper deck would have bolted right up

Well I got a little further. Found enough gold shock bits to get the outlaw standing in its own, however they are rough and will need some attention. May try to anno them. I started assembling the "best" of the lot with an eBay special $30 duratrax chassis and lots of saved up new bits like the adjustable tie rod set. I am loving the way the optima body fits so I will be looking for one instead of an Ultima body. Tires and wheels were stuff I had, I'd like to find something in a matching rear proline dish wheel and get rid of those you-g. Still contemplating dying the towers. I need more gold shocks and hardware for the fronts so it's going to the side until I can free up some cash.

Off to work on the oval car some more. Trying to decide on a front suspension- I am not a fan of laying the shock down using the upper camber hole at the hub but that's how kyosho liked to do it. Upright would be pretty tall. Hmmmm

Have a question which may be of help to the thread starter, though apologies if its a hijack
The idler gear on the outside of the gearbox is meant to have two bearings and a spacer between the bearings
Is there any thing in particular that makes a good substitute for the spacer?

The original called for that spacer, one of my trannies had it- see pic. I remembered them being a white color but this one was black. The aftermarket bearing sets use a 4x8fl bearing on each side and loose the washer that goes on the inside.

The spacer is exactly the same dimension as a 4x8 bearing, so I personally would substitute it with another bearing

The spacer probably wouldn't be needed if you used flanged bearings, I'm guessing...?

I really like the nice, clean look of that chassis. If you find out which one it is, let me know.

gomachv wrote:I started assembling the "best" of the lot with an eBay special $30 duratrax chassis