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Derrick, just use button head screws to get the clearance.

Flat head counter sunk for either set of screws prevents any issues.

Thanks for the tips guys. Ill get it figured out. But until then here you go. A finished test run set!

Being an owner of an original ARP car I'd prefer you not make exact copies of the original.

The kit came out in '87 or '88 so it really only works with the 6-gear and MIP trans. The TPS trans can work but it's got some issues. The stealth trans is a problem because the mount on the trans brace for the shock tower is right on top of where the stealth trans holes need to be. The shock tower is further forward on the ARP car and the shocks are best mounted behind the tower with the arm mounts in the LWB position. You can't just screw new holes through the ARP brace for the stealth trans because the screws for the shock tower are in the way.

To modify the brace for a stealth trans you're probably going to move the shock tower mount further back on the brace....behind the 6 gear trans holes instead of in front of them.


If you guys are looking to recreate the ARP car because of the modern shift to mid-motor I'd also suggest you eliminate the battery slots in the chassis. They do nothing for lipo and make mounting a steering servo a PITA on the original car.

The last thing I'll mention before I STFU already is 1.18" and big bore shocks are going to be an issue. The ARP tower is taller than the stock RC10 tower and may not have the room to be lowered for shorter shocks. On my car I have 1.32" shocks with 1.02 shafts" and have to use no limiters in the shock bodies but 2 x .125" spacers outside the body limiting up travel.

Wow, glad you mentioned all of that, excellent tips and advice, I stumbled across this thread awhile back and said man it would be cool to reproduce this kit, it was a very good history lesson as I knew nothing of the kit previously due to my involvement in RC was long after the kit was gone, thank you!

Another potential problem for a modern runner version...B4 slippers. The B4 top shaft sticks out further than the 6 gear's top shaft does and there's not a lot of space between the diff adj. nut and the shock spring on an ARP set up.

To give you an idea on space available....I've got a hyperdrive belt system on my car now so, because of how the motor/spur needs to be flipped, I can still use a stock gear cover. The shock spring just barely makes contact with a stock gear cover. An RPM cover however doesn't work unless the rubber cap is removed. A VTS slipper clutch cover would be totally out of the question. Even a stock cover wouldn't work with big bore springs.


Okay now I will really STFU.

Phin wrote:Being an owner of an original ARP car I'd prefer you not make exact copies of the original.

The kit came out in '87 or '88 so it really only works with the 6-gear and MIP trans. The TPS trans can work but it's got some issues. The stealth trans is a problem because the mount on the trans brace for the shock tower is right on top of where the stealth trans holes need to be. The shock tower is further forward on the ARP car and the shocks are best mounted behind the tower with the arm mounts in the LWB position. You can't just screw new holes through the ARP brace for the stealth trans because the screws for the shock tower are in the way.

To modify the brace for a stealth trans you're probably going to move the shock tower mount further back on the brace....behind the 6 gear trans holes instead of in front of them.


If you guys are looking to recreate the ARP car because of the modern shift to mid-motor I'd also suggest you eliminate the battery slots in the chassis. They do nothing for lipo and make mounting a steering servo a PITA on the original car.

The last thing I'll mention before I STFU already is 1.18" and big bore shocks are going to be an issue. The ARP tower is taller than the stock RC10 tower and may not have the room to be lowered for shorter shocks. On my car I have 1.32" shocks with 1.02 shafts" and have to use no limiters in the shock bodies but 2 x .125" spacers outside the body limiting up travel.

Phin wrote:Another potential problem for a modern runner version...B4 slippers. The B4 top shaft sticks out further than the 6 gear's top shaft does and there's not a lot of space between the diff adj. nut and the shock spring on an ARP set up.

To give you an idea on space available....I've got a hyperdrive belt system on my car now so, because of how the motor/spur needs to be flipped, I can still use a stock gear cover. The shock spring just barely makes contact with a stock gear cover. An RPM cover however doesn't work unless the rubber cap is removed. A VTS slipper clutch cover would be totally out of the question. Even a stock cover wouldn't work with big bore springs.


Okay now I will really STFU.

Ok Phin, I am trying to get the final design finished on this and would like to figure out exactly what I can do to make some changes on this design that will be the best all around for everyone. I believe I can add additional holes into the front part of the top bracket for the use of a stealth trans. Sorry this pic does not show the shock tower mount holes. I believe if you install the mounting screws from the back like I did in my pictures it will mount just fine.
and I added additional holes for adjustment like you suggested on the rear brace.

as far as some of the other issues you mentioned I don't really know exactly what to do to help. Any help is appreciated

Honestly I don't think you can make it good enough for everyone.

If you want to re-re the conversion for people to own one then make it like the original and let 'em use a 6-gear trans like the kit is supposed to. I'd appreciate it if you please make it obvious that it's a replica though. Engraving your logo on each piece is a good idea.

For an updated build or modern runner I don't think the design is worth copying. Keeping the shocks mounted towards the front of the car looks neat as heck but it is really more of a hindrance to work around than a benefit to gain.

got ya! Ok, thank you for all of your help and advice. I personally feel like making an exact replica is the all around best route. Maybe because I'm a nostalgic kind of person. however I feel the best option would be to add the mounting holes for the stealth transmission and leave it at that. I do plan on engraving my logo on each piece so that they can easily be recognized as a remake of the original

Just a quick update. These parts should be completed in about one week or so. I will create a sale post in the BST section for these kits.

Does anyone know what body fits on this chassis?

Haven't found a body I want on mine yet.

Andy's Renegade would definitely fit but since the chassis isn't as hard to cover as a Houge or Andy's chassis a Protech II or Sidewinder might work too.

While working on this project I decided to design and build a clear frame for this mid motor set up. It still needs a little design work on the rear end. I need to add support braces to stiffen up the rear end. I pretty much had to build the car so I can work out a brace design. Hope you enjoy!

Ok everyone I have these completed finally! I will create a sale post in BST for those interested in this build. Thanks all.

More cool stuff!